RichG60 0 Posted March 6, 2010 Hi guys, I did a major service yesterday and attacked the timing / serpentine belt today as per the definitive guide on the forum. Well started her up and she was running lovely, I marked the fly wheel with tipex to make it easier to spot the timing mark. Dad tweaked the ignition timing but only at idle, no Blue Temp sensor disconnected and not up to temperature. The car again was idling correctly after the adjustments were made. On the way home I noticed the peak boost was lower than usual. about 10-12psi. The car seemed to drive well but not making full boost. Car is running (68mm, gwerk stage 4 and sns 5.5) Would this be caused by the ignition timing not being carried out correctly e.g. 2000-2500rpm with blue temperature sender disconnected and up to temperature? Also when I disconnected the spring tensioner unit I noticed the rubber isolator ring has perished and is causing a rattling sound. Can this be replaced separately or will I need to buy the whole damper unit? Cheers Rich Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RichG60 0 Posted March 6, 2010 Also can someone confirm that the 6degree btdc marker is a deep groove. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
volksworld13 0 Posted March 6, 2010 if i can remember you have to put the car into a basic setting to adjust ignition timing, well i had to on my 2.0 8v , as i adjusted the timing , it would not change unless i carried out a basic setting using 50501b. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RichG60 0 Posted March 6, 2010 Anyone? Will the engine timing affect max boost or is it the ignition timing. Thing is I'm happy the engine timing is correct. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted March 6, 2010 Yeah you need to do the ignition timing following the proper procedure. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RichG60 0 Posted March 7, 2010 Cheers mate, I tweaked the ignition timing as per the instructions and the car is spot on. Re the spring damper on the charger that attaches to the tensioner guide can you get replacement isolator mounts for them? The rubber ring with a metal insert that fits in the bottom of the damper. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
steveo29 0 Posted March 7, 2010 you can get alloy replacements for those bushes ...the guy advertised on dubforce http://www.dubforce.net/forums/index.ph ... opic=17303 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RichG60 0 Posted March 7, 2010 Cheers dropped him a pm :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
steveo29 0 Posted March 7, 2010 got some on mine..seem fine , no rattles or bad stuff Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Richardshoes 0 Posted March 9, 2010 Alloy refurbs? How do they work? Don't you need the elastomer cross section to aid dampening? There is a zero at the tdc centre mark this differentiates it from the 6btdc mark. RPM = 2500 Temp >80c setting 6+-1 Coolant temp sensor removed Once done re-attach sensor and measure the advance at same rpm. The advance should be +30odd if not there is an open loop or a fault with the sensor. I just fitted a schrick asymmetric cam and am running 7degrees advance with a 65mm pulley. She is getting rather strong! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RichG60 0 Posted March 9, 2010 Thanks for the response, that's how it was set up. When you say reconnect the sensor and at the same revs it should be 30odd. What are you referring to 30 degrees? If so how can you tell. Cheers Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RichG60 0 Posted March 9, 2010 What would be the side effect of running open loop all the time? My car starts first time and has lots of power and idles correctly so assume everything must be alright :). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites