VR6 Clutch cylinders - hard to replace?

[dukest 0]

So, as you would expect, after selling a virtually brand new master and slave clutch cylinder in January, which i bought for a project I didnt do, about a week later I began to realise that i needed to push my own clutch closer and closer to the floor to get a clean change. So, I did some reading on the forum and one or other or both cylinders failing is likely to be the problem. It had a new clutch less than 10k miles ago for background.

 

I rang Graham at DG to ask how long it might last and he said it wasnt an easy thing to predict, but although I'd been muddling on for 10 days since then I tried to use the car today and I cant put it in gear. Graham said it was likely to be the slave first but it would be hard to know until you do one or the other. If I cant persuade the AA to tow me somewhere that I would be happy to do the work, can anyone tell me whats involved in changing the slave and or master cylinders yourself? I dont have any bleeding equipment or experience if that helps as a starting point... :pale:

 

Thanks

John

[Chris 0]

hello bud,

 

there both quite easy to change. the slave is held in by 2x 13mm bolts iirc. then you just need to get the feed line out. (thinking about it, its probably easier if you undo the feed line first, just have a rag to catch the fluid).

i bought this one http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VW-GOLF-MK2-G60-MK3-CORRADO-VR6-CLUTCH-SLAVE-CYL-C356_W0QQitemZ190320220928QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item2c4ff81b00#ht_1627wt_941 ive used it for a year so far with no problems, its just as good as the genuine one in my opinion.

 

as for the master, i removed my brave servo at the time so found it quite easy. when you look, you'll see one of the 2 nuts holding it in place is behind the servo. cant remember if the studs are actually welded in place. anyway once they are both off its then just a case of removing the retaining clip on the pedal box. (this is certainly easier when the servo is out of the way)

 

hopefully its just the seal on the slave thats gone. its usually the case.

 

hope this helps.

 

chris

[bigt 0]

my clutch just went on my pedal went up as high as the trim then went down and stayed down

got towed to my local garage and was told 3 days later master slave and clutch needed doin

£700 later got my car back bitting point is nearly instant is this uasuall vr6 by the way

[Chris 0]

my clutch just went on my pedal went up as high as the trim then went down and stayed down

got towed to my local garage and was told 3 days later master slave and clutch needed doin

£700 later got my car back bitting point is nearly instant is this uasuall vr6 by the way

 

£700! jesus christ! they saw you coming :)

[dukest 0]

thanks a lot chris! doesn't sound too bad - i guess i need to work out where the slave is now then and see what else I have to get my hands on to do it!

 

if anyone has any pictures or other tips on what needs doing after i've put the new one on then I'd be grateful!

 

cheers!

[Chris 0]

thanks a lot chris! doesn't sound too bad - i guess i need to work out where the slave is now then and see what else I have to get my hands on to do it!

 

if anyone has any pictures or other tips on what needs doing after i've put the new one on then I'd be grateful!

 

cheers!

 

ill take some photos for you tomorrow john, changing the slave is dead easy.

[easypops 8]

When my clutch went (release fork snapped) i thought it might be the slave clyinder......so i got one and replaced it.......didn't solve the problem but it was fairly easy to do(and i'm useless at these things,just keen).....here is a pic(stolen from the wiki, green arrow is mine though.....the 2 arrows to the left of the green one are pointing to the 2 bolts holding it in place......also here is a link to a helpful bleeding procedure

viewtopic.php?f=23&t=33710&hilit=clutch+bleeding