What these fault codes are please, 00522 & 00523

[KIPVW 0]

HI all,

 

been having some major problems with the 8v for a while now, it nearly always starts from cold but has been known to not do but if i drive it a while be it a short 2 or 3 mile or more say 15 to 20 mile when i come back to it after a few mins it struggles to turn over and i just leave it for 5 mins and wiggle a few wires and sometmes it fires up but sometimes it takes upto 30 mins :(

 

Plugged in on of those generic code readers and these came up, 00522 & 00523, any ideas how to cure them?

 

The car has also cut out and died several times whilst driving when this happens the revs just drop instantly and the car just rolls in gear but wont go again untill i stop and leave it for a short while. This happened while i was in the outside lane of the motorway recently which is not good when you put the hazards on doing 70 or so and no pillock lets you through as they all drive so close :censored:

 

Really getting to me now as been rescued by the AA a couple of times now but it will always fire after leaving it a while so at a loss untill it completely goes pop.

 

Either that or it goes off a bloody cliff i'm so hacked off with it. Sigh :(

[RW1 0]

Hi Paul,

 

For an 8v...........

 

00522 is the coolant temp sender G62 (Top hose connection to cylinder head))

Possibles

- Shorted to earth

- Open circuit

- sender defective

 

00523 is Intake air temp sender G42 (Side of air filter box)

Possibles

- Short to earth

- Open circuit

 

Broken wire inside one of the connectors or corroded connections inside the connectors? Check which one you are wiggling aganst the positions above. Doesn't sound like the sensors themselves are at fault.

 

Chris

[KIPVW 0]

Cheers chris,

 

Just had a google too but couldn't find anything concrete so to speak so i'll take a look at these little critters.

 

Thanks buddy :salute:

[KIPVW 0]

Ok numpty question, what does short to earth mean :scratch: and open circuit? sorry but i hate electrics with a vengeance :shrug:

 

How does a complete novice tackle these few issues?

 

Thanks!

[RW1 0]

Short to earth means the supplying wire is contacting directly to earth - ie contacting engine or bare bodywork. Open circuit means a broken wire clean through.

 

What you need to do is in the bottom part of the post above. If not that, then I would be next looking at a broken wire internally inside the outer insulation where ever your wiggling corrects it.

 

Testing the sensors can be done but cos the engine is able to work it suggests they are OK electrically.

 

My bet is on a broken wire in one of the connectors. You are not just looking at the pins inside but also where the wires are crimped onto the connector's pins as the enter the connector body from the loom side.

 

Top techy bit was aimed at anyone you take it to for a fix if you're not successful.

[KIPVW 0]

Smashing, thanks Chris :notworthy:

[volksworld13 0]

your issue may lie, on the ns channel below the battery, its a channel the wiring loom sits in, and ive seen many wiring chafs there, i emiled judeith about this a while ago ,to check this area,for damage.just twist the harness over and you will notice a sharpe edge cutting the loom, hope this helps.alex

[pagurus 0]

The car has also cut out and died several times whilst driving when this happens the revs just drop instantly and the car just rolls in gear but wont go again untill i stop and leave it for a short while. This happened while i was in the outside lane of the motorway recently which is not good when you put the hazards on doing 70 or so and no pillock lets you through as they all drive so close :censored: (

 

Just a thought here, probably nothing to do with your problem, but I once had niggling electrical hassles with my 92 G60. One day when I ran through a big puddle, the engine sputtered, and finally a shortout caused some wires to fry and smoke. My mechanic at the time confirmed some loom wires were rubbing against the engine. The engine had been moving in the engine bay too much because the front engine mount (support / damper) was knackered. After a £160 bill from the auto electricians, and about £80 from my mechanic, it was all sorted. Just a thought mate. Gud luck!

[KIPVW 0]

Thanks very much for the posts chaps, i'll take a good luck at all issues mentioned and see if i can find anything :wink:

[CrazyDave 0]

Despite the codes, I reckon crank sensor or ignition switch. The codes may be from other investigation :?

 

The only things that cause a complete dead stop and usually no code are crank sensor or loss of ignition to the ecu. Fuel related tend to cause spluttering etc then stop.

 

Check the crank sensor behind the front engine mounting, the lead is most likely all broken up just out of sight........ beware when you disturb it it may die completely and won't run at all the bare wires can also short the power supply from the ecu too.....

[Guest]

Interesting that dave in that when the AA guy checked the wires from the ignition coil he seemed to think this was where the problem may lie, i've since also replaced the module but to no avail and is exactly the same.

 

Will look at the sensor wire in question as i know you mentioned this before. could possibly rob judes as hers is going nowhere with the siezed brakes till we get them sorted next :roll:

 

Kip on Judes login :lol: