psiburr 0 Posted July 25, 2010 How easy is it to replace the wires from the isv to the ecu on a G60 ? Is it just plugged or does it need the ecu opened and soldered ? Also where's the best place to buy them ? 90% sure that this is the cause of my erratic idle ( with no loss of power when driving other than chugging when off throttle ) as it runs much much better with it disconnected. I've cleaned and tried 2 different isv's, replaced the switches on the throttle body, new plugs and leads, replaced both water sensors, sorted the timing, replaced the vacuum pipe from the TB, adjusted the idle screw and had the lambda checked all with no improvement :bad-words: I'm guessing it's the wire cos it runs over the engine and I've heard is prone to heat damage ?! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
psiburr 0 Posted July 25, 2010 Gonna try and tackle it tomorrow but would appreciate any advice before I get the wipers and scuttle off. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mimjed 0 Posted July 25, 2010 Ecu doesnt need to be cracked open, just the loom that clips into it. Pain in the ass t get at. Im changing the ignition wires to mine on tues. If you happen to know of a bt engineer they have kit to find where the break is in the cable. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
psiburr 0 Posted July 26, 2010 Other than starting from cold ( in this weather it starts first time ) any down side to just running it with the isv unplugged ? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
leeeeshad 0 Posted July 26, 2010 Other than starting from cold ( in this weather it starts first time ) any down side to just running it with the isv unplugged ? I hope not, mine dosent have one (well it does, but it runs like crap with it so its in the boot) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
psiburr 0 Posted July 26, 2010 Hhmm. Any difference between running it un plugged and removed ? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
leeeeshad 0 Posted July 26, 2010 I havent tried it connected but unplugged, i think the valve itself is leaking. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
psiburr 0 Posted July 26, 2010 I've got 2 spares now if you need one ? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
leeeeshad 0 Posted July 26, 2010 I've got 2 spares now if you need one ? how much? :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
psiburr 0 Posted July 27, 2010 Bought it with a throttle body for £75 so £25 posted ? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
leeeeshad 0 Posted July 27, 2010 Bought it with a throttle body for £75 so £25 posted ? Sounds good to me, do you have paypal? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
psiburr 0 Posted July 27, 2010 P to the M'd 8) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
leeeeshad 0 Posted July 27, 2010 P to the M'd 8) pay to the ment send :lol: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
psiburr 0 Posted July 27, 2010 Just need your adrizzle so I can sizzle the pizzle :scratch: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
leeeeshad 0 Posted July 27, 2010 Just need your adrizzle so I can sizzle the pizzle :scratch: Should have come with the email from paypay :cuckoo: i'll PM it now Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
psiburr 0 Posted July 31, 2010 Going to rewire the isv-ecu today as I'm querying a break somewhere :pale: very little knowledge of these things but I'm assuming I'll just need 2 similar wires and some solder ?! I've done searches ( not much to be found on this ) but any advice would be GREATLY appreciated !! :help: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DanVW 0 Posted July 31, 2010 Have you checked your Vac hoses? I had a very similar problem that was sorted when I replaced the 2" hose from the ISV to the Manifold it had a large split in it, I would also recommend cleaning out your ISV with throttle body cleaner. Also don't replace the ISV wiring without doing a continuity check with a meter between the ISV end and the ECU end of the wiring, take it to an auto electrics specialist if your not sure. Cheers Dan Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
psiburr 0 Posted July 31, 2010 Thanks for the reply bud. I've replaced vac pipes, spark plugs + leads, 2 isv's, throttle body switches, water temp sensors, timing etc etc !! Thing is, with the isv unplugged it runs sweet as ?! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
psiburr 0 Posted July 31, 2010 took one look at the ECU and pussied out :lol: off to an auto electrician me thinks. what else could it be though if it runs great with the ISV unplugged ?! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
psiburr 0 Posted August 9, 2010 Update. Really winding me up now !! I disconnected the isv, ran fine for a while then started nearly cutting out again. I then deleted the isv, ran fine for a couple of days then started again ! now it's worse than ever and sounds like it's cutting out when the throttle's only slightly open ( with a faint "papping" noise like a machine gun ) and then lurches forward and drives normally for a minute or two before doing it all again :( Next stop ECU ? Any advice would be very very welcome !! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mimjed 0 Posted August 9, 2010 where does the papping noise come from? any chance of a vid of it doing it? have you had a look at the vac pipe inside the ecu to the map sensor? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
psiburr 0 Posted August 10, 2010 The papping comes from the exhaust but I've also noticed a whistle from the alternator/charger area :( things like chitty chitty bang bang at the mo !! It's actually cutting out now so I'm in break down territory. The TB-ecu vac pipe was replaced but not sure about the ecu-map , where would I find that ? It still runs well foot down which really confuses me ?! When it's papping I have to wait for the power to come back unless I give it some beans then it jerks to life and runs properly. I'll get I video up later today of it with the hood up and faltering. Thanks for your imput dude, I'm really getting nowhere here. I'm gonna call Darren at Gwerks again later, he's been talking me through but still no progress. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mimjed 0 Posted August 10, 2010 The vac hose from mani to ecu plugs into it. Open ecu and you cant miss it. Could well be worth plugging in another ecu for elimination purposes. So the papping noise comes from behind you? Have you checked fuel pump and fuel lines? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
G60_Marc 0 Posted August 10, 2010 It still runs well foot down which really confuses me ?!. Maybe the Lambda sensor or its wires near the exhaust. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
psiburr 0 Posted August 28, 2010 HAHAHAHA !!!! just had a fantastic auto electrician come round and fix my car !! doesn't want to be recomended on here cos he's got too much work already ! Turned out to be a faulty fuel pump relay, resoldered and now running sweet as. Thanks for all your help guys :clap: hope this can help someone else in the future ?! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites