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volksworld13

quick brake pipe question!!???

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as every ones aware brake pipes went obsolete yrs back the ones pre-shaped with unions on the ends, on etka its lists brake pipe by the role,

 

the question is , has anyone ordered this? if so does the brake pipe come through like the original made out of steel, with the green coating on it, and then cut and flare to size or does it come through as a copper pipe, easier to shape ect, im trying to get the same as original , the greeny coloured steel pipe like out of the factory,

thanks in advance alex

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give their parts people a call, they're usually quite helpful.

 

i bought a 25ft roll of alloy (copper and zinc i think?) pipe for about £10 from a local car parts place. harder than copper and much better wearing than either the copper of the original stuff.... it'll last for years, probably longer than the car.

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im trying to get my car to concourse level, which is hard in its own right.

i work nxt to vw, asked parts helpless, there must be someone out there whos ordered the roll of pipe for the corrado?

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The rolls VW sell are the proper steel but you need a really good tool to flare it like the Sykes Pickavent 270 and a decent pipe bender like the SP 002560000

 

The pre-made lengths with ends are still available for the MK2 and some of the lengths are the same as the C.

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really, thats good to know!

can you tell me which ones will fit / are they identicle to the vr6 corrado ones, any part numbers.

 

so just to confirm the pipe is like the factory, green steel pipe, i have an all singing all dancing flarer so no probs there.

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Yeah not sure about lengths and I'm not sure what's listed on ETKA is quite right either... best to measure what you take off with string.

 

Yeah is the proper green coated stuff (made by Cohline)

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5 Metre rolls are currently £4.10 +VAT

Unions are £6.14 + VAT each!! i'd personally go somewhere else for them as you should be able to get them for about 50p each

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if you REALLY want to keep it as oem as possible then get the OEM green-coated steel stuff from the dealers.

obviously this will (probably) outlast the car...

 

but if you're capable of doing it yourself and you have a decent flaring tool, then i would go for copper-nickel (also called cupro-nickel i think) lines. they're much stronger than the flimsy pure copper stuff you can buy and they're also very very corrosion resistant to the point the same material is used on oil rigs etc due to the salt spray.

 

cupro nickel is unquestionably the way forward for hard-lines, but if you want that concours finish then you could still go for the OEM steel stuff.

 

also (just personally now), if i ever replace any hard lines in future; for the ballache of bending up/flaring/fitting new lines, i'm defo just going to flexi the whole lot with goodridge hoses and stainless fittings - they have a lifetime warranty (which will actually work seeing as they'll have stainless fittings unlike the zinc-plated crap!), look nice, be easy to remove/maintain etc and should never fatigue or need replacing. by far the most user-friendly solution IMO. and also not that much more expensive than buying the hard line either!

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if you REALLY want to keep it as oem as possible then get the OEM green-coated steel stuff from the dealers.

obviously this will (probably) outlast the car...

 

but if you're capable of doing it yourself and you have a decent flaring tool, then i would go for copper-nickel (also called cupro-nickel i think) lines. they're much stronger than the flimsy pure copper stuff you can buy and they're also very very corrosion resistant to the point the same material is used on oil rigs etc due to the salt spray.

 

cupro nickel is unquestionably the way forward for hard-lines, but if you want that concours finish then you could still go for the OEM steel stuff.

 

also (just personally now), if i ever replace any hard lines in future; for the ballache of bending up/flaring/fitting new lines, i'm defo just going to flexi the whole lot with goodridge hoses and stainless fittings - they have a lifetime warranty (which will actually work seeing as they'll have stainless fittings unlike the zinc-plated crap!), look nice, be easy to remove/maintain etc and should never fatigue or need replacing. by far the most user-friendly solution IMO. and also not that much more expensive than buying the hard line either!

 

Top Tip Pete - . My hard lines are at the end of their lives and didn't realise Goodridge did the complete pipes to totally replace the hard lines. have you got part numbers for the full length hoses and I'm guessing all the clips need replacing as well, part Nos and supplier info for these too? :D

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if you REALLY want to keep it as oem as possible then get the OEM green-coated steel stuff from the dealers.

obviously this will (probably) outlast the car...

 

but if you're capable of doing it yourself and you have a decent flaring tool, then i would go for copper-nickel (also called cupro-nickel i think) lines. they're much stronger than the flimsy pure copper stuff you can buy and they're also very very corrosion resistant to the point the same material is used on oil rigs etc due to the salt spray.

 

cupro nickel is unquestionably the way forward for hard-lines, but if you want that concours finish then you could still go for the OEM steel stuff.

 

also (just personally now), if i ever replace any hard lines in future; for the ballache of bending up/flaring/fitting new lines, i'm defo just going to flexi the whole lot with goodridge hoses and stainless fittings - they have a lifetime warranty (which will actually work seeing as they'll have stainless fittings unlike the zinc-plated crap!), look nice, be easy to remove/maintain etc and should never fatigue or need replacing. by far the most user-friendly solution IMO. and also not that much more expensive than buying the hard line either!

 

Top Tip Pete - . My hard lines are at the end of their lives and didn't realise Goodridge did the complete pipes to totally replace the hard lines. have you got part numbers for the full length hoses and I'm guessing all the clips need replacing as well, part Nos and supplier info for these too? :D

 

sorry pal - should have been more specific; goodridge don't do the complete lines off the shelf for doing a whole car, unlike their short flexis just to replace the oem items.

you'll need to measure exactly how long you want the various lines (get the string out!), then send the measurements to goodridge along with the types of fittings you want on the ends.

just give them a ring and speak to them - they are normally pretty helpful :)

(and yes - you'll need different retaining clips to hold the lines onto the car)

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...

sorry pal - should have been more specific; goodridge don't do the complete lines off the shelf for doing a whole car, unlike their short flexis just to replace the oem items.

you'll need to measure exactly how long you want the various lines (get the string out!), then send the measurements to goodridge along with the types of fittings you want on the ends.

just give them a ring and speak to them - they are normally pretty helpful :)

(and yes - you'll need different retaining clips to hold the lines onto the car)

[/quote:3fvjxe20]

 

OK - will do. :D

Anyone done measurements on the G60's Hard Brake Lines BTW ?

Anyone done a full Hard Line - to - Flexi Pipe conversion on a G60 ?

Hate to be the first one over the wall on this :lol:

http://www.goodridge.net

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send Kip_VR a quick PM - he's already done the full conversion.

 

his car is a vr6, but the measurements should be the same as al the wheels/brake calipers are in the same places!

 

only difference might be as he is running brembos on the front, so you'll need different fittings and the lengths of the hoses might vary by say 20-50mm...

 

you can see the lines all made up and fitted to his car if you search for his build thread in the members gallery

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Just be careful on the unions that are used, I would assume the goodridge ones'll be fine though.

 

If the unions are deemed to be unsafe by an MOT tester then they can fail them.

I also believe there is another MOT rule that is coming in the near future that says that the unions must be a specific type properly crimped on or they'll be failed even if they look fine enough.

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send Kip_VR a quick PM - he's already done the full conversion.

his car is a vr6, but the measurements should be the same as al the wheels/brake calipers are in the same places!

only difference might be as he is running brembos on the front, so you'll need different fittings and the lengths of the hoses might vary by say 20-50mm...

you can see the lines all made up and fitted to his car if you search for his build thread in the members gallery

 

Cheers Pete, did you mean KIPVW as no KIP_VR that I can find :scratch:

:D

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send Kip_VR a quick PM - he's already done the full conversion.

his car is a vr6, but the measurements should be the same as al the wheels/brake calipers are in the same places!

only difference might be as he is running brembos on the front, so you'll need different fittings and the lengths of the hoses might vary by say 20-50mm...

you can see the lines all made up and fitted to his car if you search for his build thread in the members gallery

 

Cheers Pete, did you mean KIPVW as no KIP_VR that I can find :scratch:

:D

 

Thats KipVR without the "_" !!! :lol:

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to be fair id try somewhere like earls for a full flexi kit. should imagine it will save a good few pennies over goodridge.

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I'm just over here!

 

I bought a roll of flexi and worked out how many and of which type of unions I'd need. Bought the whole lot from earls I think through where I used to work.

 

If I'm honest I'd pay the extra pennies and get goodridge stuff next time round, as the unions were not that easy to use. They are re-usable unions, not the crimp type. They have an olive that you put over the inner tube and then screw up onto, sounds easy but the braiding gets in the way. Also use the smallest bore you can get. The larger the inner surface area of the tube, the more expansion you get under pressure.

 

I've not used the brakes yet so can't comment on how spongey they are, but I thought I'd give it a shot as I know of a few race cars that run fully braid and they seem fine, but then they don't weigh as much.

 

As for only the crimp type being MOT legal soon, that sucks!! But hey it's not a big job to change them back.

 

My car's now running at long last (and sounding good) so not long until I try and MOT it...

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ive just replaced all by back brakes lines with brand new green oem metal pipe, and they turned out really well, i have bought a special pipe bender , so i can make some really tight bends, just a thought, as the ready made pipe were made obsolete, and only a reel of pipe can be bought, would anybody be interested in a set , i can make the rear up in about 1hr to the exact spec using genuine pipe.

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ive just replaced all by back brakes lines with brand new green oem metal pipe, and they turned out really well, i have bought a special pipe bender , so i can make some really tight bends, just a thought, as the ready made pipe were made obsolete, and only a reel of pipe can be bought, would anybody be interested in a set , i can make the rear up in about 1hr to the exact spec using genuine pipe.

 

 

YES I WOULD BE VERY INTERESTED IN A SET FOR MY VR

 

Please let me know as my brake lines are knackered

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ok, i still need to make up the front to rear and the front brakes lines, using my original brakes pipes off my vr, i will sort some prices ect, and get bk to you all soon. :D

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