ticking g60

[radojunkie 0]

ive got a 92 g60, its got a all signing and dancing 1.9 engine, recently I have noticed an annoying ticking sound coming from it, it happens when I press on the accelerator pedal and more so when I press on it hard, any ideas on how I can rectify this and where the sound is coming from?

 

cheers Pete

[robrado974 1]

how many miles on her ? could be tappets mabe ,try to listen and locate the noise where its loudest .

[JMC 0]

Check the oil level - with a 1.9 I presume you have forged pistons, they tend to rattle a bit especially a) when cold and b) if the oil level is low (mine does that).

[radojunkie 0]

well the engine itself has only done about 25k, the noise is toward the back of the engine, on the drivers side by the exhaust manifold (2-4-1). ive never had a performance engine before so all these noises are a little worrying :lol:

 

the oil level is a bit low, and ive heard that you need to put 10-40w syntha in but i think its a bit too runny, can you recommend any thicker ones?

[JMC 0]

well the engine itself has only done about 25k, the noise is toward the back of the engine, on the drivers side by the exhaust manifold (2-4-1). ive never had a performance engine before so all these noises are a little worrying :lol:

 

the oil level is a bit low, and ive heard that you need to put 10-40w syntha in but i think its a bit too runny, can you recommend any thicker ones?

 

10W40 was what I was recommended by Darren after the 1.9l rebuild mate. Too think an oil and you can have problems with the charger seals exspecially when the oil is cold. I had a similar talk with Darren funnily enough, thinking there was a problem with mine. I was recommended to keep an eye on the oil level, and that to be honest forged pistons can be a bit clattery so not to worry.

[weetos 0]

Loose manifold nut I'm willing to guess, do you have a 4branch on it?

The outer 2 always come loose on mine, every 6mths I need to re tighten them

[dirtytorque 0]

Loose manifold nut I'm willing to guess, do you have a 4branch on it?

The outer 2 always come loose on mine, every 6mths I need to re tighten them

 

this is what i was going to say.

zaust manni not on tight enuff is my bet.

ta

[radojunkie 0]

it seems a bit of a common problem, it has got a four branch on it, which was a pain to get to the bolts to tighten them, I think this is the problem with mine.

 

il keep an eye on the oil level, my vw techy said it needed thicker oil as the syntha was a bit too runny, but i think i shall stick with syntha. Hopefully get all that sorted today, what set-ups are you all running at then? i need some forced air, intercooler and the like, any recommendations?

[JMC 0]

If you're not running an FMIC then that should be the 1st thing on your list really. Even with the 1.8l setup, it's a benficial thing to have. Depending on what else you have, get an oil cooler, an oil pressure gauge and boost gauge, all of which to be honest are necessary on a tweaked engine. I run mine with a standard air box (although it is cut to get more air from under the wing) and standard air filter - saw no benefit (RR tested) from a K&N panel filter. I flowed my throttle, but to be honest it was more for something to do than anything else.

[radojunkie 0]

yeah its amazing how much stuff you need to get even if you only upgrade one thing on your car! intercooler is next on the list, the oil has only ever gone upto 114 (reading from maf) but i dont have an oil cooler yet. il need to get some guages too, any ones you found good/accurate? no idea how to fit them tho.

 

after those it'll be time for a remap, its been dragging out since i have no spare cash at the mo :(

 

its running standard brakes with green stuff pads, there great tho sometimes they feel a lil spongey, are any of you running the ibiza cupra brembos, whats the comparison?

 

id like to get arb's and it all polybushed in time and possibly a short shift kit, any comments on these would be much appreciated also. thanks guys

[JMC 0]

yeah its amazing how much stuff you need to get even if you only upgrade one thing on your car! intercooler is next on the list, the oil has only ever gone upto 114 (reading from maf) but i dont have an oil cooler yet. il need to get some guages too, any ones you found good/accurate? no idea how to fit them tho.

 

after those it'll be time for a remap, its been dragging out since i have no spare cash at the mo :(

 

its running standard brakes with green stuff pads, there great tho sometimes they feel a lil spongey, are any of you running the ibiza cupra brembos, whats the comparison?

 

id like to get arb's and it all polybushed in time and possibly a short shift kit, any comments on these would be much appreciated also. thanks guys

 

What map are you running then? Have you changed the injectors as part of ther rebuild? If you are running a 1.9 conversion without a remap you run the risk of potentially running very lean on full boost and causing a load of damage. G-Werks have a load of maps for their 1.9 conversions and should be able to provide you with an off the shelf generic map for your setup which will atleast be close to the mark.

 

As for gauges, I like the autometer Sport comp ones, or Defi (but the ones I have are Defi Dseries made for the US market so have imperial thread fittings - not good on a German car). Get and electronic not mechnaical oil pressure one, and a mechnaical boost one and tap intot he boost pipe going to the back of the clocks. Neither are hard jobs. ARB's good idea, polybushes can be harsh especially on a daily runner (I haven't bothered). Half decent coilies are a must really. Not got a short shift, so not sure. Brakes, 4 pot brembos or Porka ones are good, but you need decent sized wheels to fit them under.

[radojunkie 0]

im running red top injectors, the car isnt running a generic map just an sns stage 5 chip but as funds have been lack since the build ive been trying to save up to get the intercooler and oil cooler first before spending on the map. as far as i can see, if i were to run a map now, id have to get another map, when i put the intercooler and oil cooler on? am i running a risk, waiting?

 

ive got the wheels already, 4x100 15" oz turbos, 8.5 et 14 front and 10" et2 on the back, realise they need a bit of arch work but had to treat myself, id love to feel the difference those brakes would make, im running fk highsport coilovers too, dropped 110mm.

 

the defi guages look amazing, werent the d series really hard to get hold of?

[JMC 0]

Yeah the D series were a pain to get - had to have them imported. Also they only made them for a short period of time so it took me ages to track down an EGT gauge. If I were to do it again, I'd do more Autometer Sport comp ones as they are very high quality.

 

I think you'll struggle to get Brembos under 15" rims. You might be able to get some of the Girling S2 callipers which are an uprade to the G60 ones, or alternatively some Wilwood ones.

 

With regards to the chip, is that a stage 5 chip for the normal 1.8 engine and for the same size injectors you have now? If so then while it wont be optimal you 'should' and I use the word should carefully there, be fine. It just wont be the best setup. If it's for different injectors or different fule pressure (maybe you've added a 3.5bar fpr, don't know) then you will be way out, and you run the risk of being way off on fuelling when on WOT. Off WOT you'll be fine as the lambda will correct the fuelling. Oil cooler wont affect the map, however the intercooler will. Have you ever read your plugs to see what they look like? That should give you an idication of whether you are running rich or lean.

 

Personally in terms of priority, I would say a) map (even if it's for one with your new conversion and an FMIC, just to make sure it's safe for your 1.9l setup), b) save and fit the intercooler, c) oil cooler.

[radojunkie 0]

cool cheers for the advice.

 

il have a look into those calipers but i understand thats way off the priority list at present. The car started life standard, then i had a 1.9l engine, pack c head, ported and polished mani, throttle body, lightened and balanced bottom end, 20v rods, forged pistons etc completed by jabba sport. i then added the gearbox with diff and vr gearing (stealth racing), next the 4 branch and finally the larger red top injectors from a vr6 set-up. i havent got a 3.5fpr

 

the charger was already running a 68mm pulley and at stage 4 but the management was standard bar the stage 5 sns chip and dialled in for original engine.

 

it seems to be running fine and delivering a fair amount of boost, obviously its not at its optimun but you can smell a fair amount of fuel if you have been gunning it, so i think it is running rich when on WOT, without checking the plugs; what are the tell tale signs for reading the plugs?

 

think i may have to enquire about g-werks maps, is it rolling road or street maps he does now?

[JMC 0]

Darren has done a load of street based maps for the the 1.9l conversions with different setups (with and with 4 branch, with and without FMIC etc) so should have something off the shelf that will be 95% of the way there. He does have access to a rollling road these days, but am not sure how much he uses it for digifant mapping. These engine are nothing without the right map - I would say conservatively you should be getting 240-250bhp at the flywheel with that when setup (depends a bit on your cam). Mine runs about 249bhp on a 65mm pulley with a similar spec to yours, however that has had a few maps to get to that stage.

 

Basically on the plugs - black too rich, white too lean. Mid grey is about right. There should be plenty of sites online with pictures of spark plugs under different conditions.

[radojunkie 0]

cheers dude, just contacted g-werks now and any future improvements he said would be no problem to fit in the map now but rob chaplin said:

 

Having a look here we do not have anything on file that matches your exact spec unfortunately. We have something close but running this would mean you would not be getting the best out of the engine. We would recommend having it custom mapped but at this moment in time we do not have the equipment here to offer it Im afraid.

 

bit dissapointing really, is that who you had yours mapped with? ive just sent a similar email to the one i sent rob to jabbasport, but for a custom map their quoting around 420 inc. vat, is that about right? it would be nice to unlock the full potential tho with the amount of work thats been put in, its running a piper 285 cam by the way

[JMC 0]

Yeah, that is a shame. I've been through a few maps, some by G-Werks when they did have access to a mapper, and some by Stealth (Vince can map these). Yes, a custom map is not cheap, and as I say, check with Stealth and see what they can do. With a piper 285 you should be similar, if not slightly more peak power than my current setup, but slightly less torque. I had a 285 on mine before my current Shrick one.

[radojunkie 0]

its good to hear from someone whose done it before, theres a company down by me in caerphilly called rolling motion, he's got a corrado an been tinkering with it for years he said (http://www.rollingmotion.co.uk/index.html). thats probably going to be a good thing but unsure if he does rolling roads or if it would have to be street mapped, which would you suggest?

 

and although he was keen to have a crack, i got the impression he wouldnt be able to do it in one hit. I think he would prefer to keep mapping and keep updating it, which was going to cost alot of tim and money. tho i do want the best performance i can get from it, can that be done with one map or would it need to be an ongoing progress as he would want?

[JMC 0]

I've had both on mine and there are pluses and minuses for both. A rolling road never matches a street in terms of the effects on the car, for example the car doesn't have to work as hard on a rolling road as there is no wind resistance. But on a rolling road, they can hold it on certains revs in each gear and build the map systematically. Also on a rolling road you have a direct measure of a) what it came in with and b) what it's going out with. I had the misfortune with a street map of thinking it was ok initially, only to find when I'd been driving for a bit it behaved like a dog, and after I'd already shelled out. Given where you are I can do no better than recommend Vince at Stealth - he reckoned on one day start to finish for map, mine was a bit quicker as my base map was pretty much there. Expect to pay a few hundred for a full map from start to finish though, but he is good and experienced on digifant.

[radojunkie 0]

il have a look into rolling roads i think, emailed vince and jabbasport, just waiting for their replies

[JMC 0]

Just give Vince a call - nice bloke and very helpful :D

[radojunkie 0]

phoned him just a second ago, hes a top bloke, says it would be best to get the intercooler and im thinking an rsr outlet too and have that all fitted before I get a custom map with him. should take a morning or afternoon he said (cost=£350+VAT).

 

i enquired about intercoolers and he seemed to think that getting an off the shelf one such as pro alloy or off a golf g60 (£5-700) would not be much better than a 200 quid one off ebay. he said the kit ones would take half a day to fit - £180+VAT whiles the ebay ones would take a full day (£360+VAT).

 

so it looks as if im shopping for an intercooler and rsr outlet now before i can have the map done, want to buy a kidney? :lol:

 

anycoolers you could suggest?

[JMC 0]

phoned him just a second ago, hes a top bloke, says it would be best to get the intercooler and im thinking an rsr outlet too and have that all fitted before I get a custom map with him. should take a morning or afternoon he said (cost=£350+VAT).

 

i enquired about intercoolers and he seemed to think that getting an off the shelf one such as pro alloy or off a golf g60 (£5-700) would not be much better than a 200 quid one off ebay. he said the kit ones would take half a day to fit - £180+VAT whiles the ebay ones would take a full day (£360+VAT).

 

so it looks as if im shopping for an intercooler and rsr outlet now before i can have the map done, want to buy a kidney? :lol:

 

anycoolers you could suggest?

 

Good, that sounds like good advice. I actually have a Golf G60 one in mine as I wanted to keep it looking stock. But they are expensive and rare. So not sure really on what to suggest, as I have no experience of the others. Have a search on here or on Dubforce and see what people have used when going for non standard ones. RSR outlet is a definately a good idea - I presume you're still running with that crappy little black plastic box then? If so you're doing well, they are prone to leaks. I would strongly well recommend a boost gauge as well - something you can easily fit yourself, and an absolute necessity with a tweeked, charged motor.

[radojunkie 0]

yeah ive got a polished bracket that fits onto that plastic box that i wanted fitted to the engine, which is also polished but the guy said it would have feel apart in his hands if he took it off haha but since ive been running with the new engine tho i have noticed something, i fooking hate polished motors :lol:

 

il have a look into intercoolers, that c with the tvr is selling one for 100 notes but il wait till i can get some spare cash and do my homework first. what sort of boost should the charger ne running?

[JMC 0]

Mine with a stage 4 charger, 65mm pulley and G-Wrks fast road head, and shrick cam 268/276, along with a 1.9l conversion, I'm seeing 11-12psi at most, which is to be expected as I've made every effort to make my system breathe as efficiently as possible. It'll be lower than a standard system as the boost pressure is as much a measure of backed up gas as well as increased output of the charger.