Idling Problems & Engine cutouts

[Royston_Vasey 0]

Hey I've just joined, I own a VR6 Storm

 

So here's the problem......

 

When I initially start the car it often cuts out

When idling the rev's raise and lower in neutral without input, almost as if the engine is panting

It frequently cuts out when I approach a roundabout or junction when I dump the clutch

 

I've stripped the induction components, and not sure if the problem lies with the mass air sensor, which calculates fuel and air mixture or if its the mechanical part of the induction not sure what's it's called, it has a metal flap and has a metal case, situated under the plastic trim of the engine.

 

I've tried a few places to get a replacement part, I've been able to get fuel air sensor, but at £100 + I don't want to replace something that might be working fine, and couldn't get a hold of the mechanical part, doesn't help when I don't know what its called, but I think that is where the problem lies as when I looked at it the metal hinged flap seemed real stiff I tried lubricating it but didn't really help.

 

Any one had similar troubles?

[Supercharged 2]

Welcome to the forum - Any fault codes logged and has the car been setup using the basic settings procedure recently?

 

http://wiki.the-corrado.net/vr6_ecu_res ... edure.html

[trevyt 0]

might be a cure but if the vac pipe that goes to the brake servo leaks or implodes that will mess around with the engines running, worth a try?

[Royston_Vasey 0]

Welcome to the forum - Any fault codes logged and has the car been setup using the basic settings procedure recently?

 

http://wiki.the-corrado.net/vr6_ecu_res ... edure.html

 

VAG 1551 or VAG-COM Where would I obtain these or would a garage most likely have these tools, The car was left for three months without really being driven as I was away with work not sure if that could of contributed to the problem

[fla 9]

do a search on stalling - there are loads of threads on it. In a nutshell havea look for leaks in the system, follow pipes to see if anything's perished. The silver can shaped thing you'ved looked at is called teh Idle Stabilisation Valve or ISV. Take it out, clean it thoroughly with some carb cleaner and then lube it well. Apply 12V to it a few times to make sure the flap opnes and closes properly and refit. Clean the throttle out - the butterfly may have some caked on gunge so clean it properly with a rag soaked in light oil.

lewt us know how you get on.

 

Oh, btw, welcome and enjoy your time here. The forum is very addictive, though, i warn you :D

[Royston_Vasey 0]

Appreciate the response's, I ve ordered a new idle stabalisation valve of ebay for £55.00, did get qouted £170 at mill autos I think not!

Looks quite simple to replace, hopefully should fix the problem

[Royston_Vasey 0]

Right I've Changed the ISV, a quick easy easy job I might add!

The engine doesn't pant any more and it idles steady however it only idles at around 650 revs and still cuts out at low speed or if in neutral is there any way of adjusting the idle speed

[fredfelcher 0]

650 rpm is about right for a VR6; shouldn't be stalling at all from there. If you haven't been able to do a 'Basic Settings' procedure (as above and the Wiki), then a poor man's version is to disconnect the battery for a few minutes and let the ECU reset then teach it by driving around for 30 mins or so trying a few 3rd and 4th gear accelerations at mid and full throttle, plus an idle for at least a minute.

 

If your ISV has been steadily failing for a while then the computer may have been compensating with learned values. It doesn't know you've replaced it.

 

Failing that, the usual suspects would be HT leads and/or plugs, coil pack, MAF.

[CazzaVR 0]

Check that all the ISV pipework is clear, as the sponge from the damper box can fall apart and get sucked into the pipes. This would stall the car. Also inspect closely for splits in the pipework.