coolrado 0 Posted January 17, 2011 It looks like my lambda sensor may be dead, its the original one and has covered over 170k and the car has just started hesitating under load, slow pick up and mpg is down to about 15mpg (usually about 35mpg) last time it did this it was caused by a broken wire on the lambda sensor but this time the wiring is fine, i tried unplugging the lambda sensor and it acted exactly the same with no change in MPG. i have been looking around at some of the sensors available and i have noticed there are ones for corrado's with a cat and ones for a corrado without cat, obviously my corrado used to have a cat and the original sensor is part number 037906265b but as it is now de-catted should i fit a different sensor? or just get a standard replacement? wheres the best place to get one as i dont fancy paying £140 from vw, it seems euro car parts do a universal bosch 3 wire sensor for £56.34 so all i would need to do is swap the connector over. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Album56 0 Posted January 17, 2011 You see new genuine Bosch 4w lambda on ebay for G60 for around £60, just search under Corrado, after 50 or so pages you may find one.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
coolrado 0 Posted January 17, 2011 yeah i had looked on ebay but the part numbers they quoted dont seem to match, with the discount it will be about £50 from ECP anyway and i dont mind swapping the connector, i just need to find out if they are the correct ones Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Album56 0 Posted January 17, 2011 Bosch part number 0 258 003 165 -760 was a direct replacement on my G60 complete with terminated plastic socket , heat resistant sleeve & anti-seize grease on threads. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
coolrado 0 Posted January 21, 2011 new lambda sensor arrived today, the tip looks a bit different to the old one but i spoke to someone from bosch technical and they assured me it is the correct type and its just an updated design which is meant to be more resistant and longer lasting. just hope it sorts out the horrendous MPG figures and its not something else causing it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
coolrado 0 Posted January 22, 2011 looks like it wasnt the lambda sensor after all, started her up and noticed the bottom pulley was jiggling about, so i removed the outer pulleys and the crank bolt was only finger tight :brickwall: damage doesnt look too bad, so i will just get a new pulley re-dress the end of the crank shaft and maybe get it pinned and make sure i use thread lock on the bolt this time. i had read a few threads with people having the same issues and it turned out to be the same thing so i suppose i should have really taken note :roll: its not a massive job and i was going to change the cambelt soon anyway so might as well do it now. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
weetos 0 Posted January 26, 2011 looks like it wasnt the lambda sensor after all, started her up and noticed the bottom pulley was jiggling about, so i removed the outer pulleys and the crank bolt was only finger tight :brickwall: damage doesnt look too bad, so i will just get a new pulley re-dress the end of the crank shaft and maybe get it pinned and make sure i use thread lock on the bolt this time. i had read a few threads with people having the same issues and it turned out to be the same thing so i suppose i should have really taken note :roll: its not a massive job and i was going to change the cambelt soon anyway so might as well do it now. pinned?? :shrug: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Yandards 0 Posted January 26, 2011 Lucky you caught that. In terms of no cat or cat lambda probes. The no cat lambda probes have a different system of heating the probe to ensure it gets up to operating temperature quickly - it uses a timer relay system. The CAT ones also have a heater but not on a really as the CAT pipe builds heat faster than no CAT. As for which to fit, the reason they fitted heaters to lambda probes was to increase operational life (about 30k non-heated and 75k heated) so it wont make any difference to the way the lambda value feeds into the ECU. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
coolrado 0 Posted January 26, 2011 looks like it wasnt the lambda sensor after all, started her up and noticed the bottom pulley was jiggling about, so i removed the outer pulleys and the crank bolt was only finger tight :brickwall: damage doesnt look too bad, so i will just get a new pulley re-dress the end of the crank shaft and maybe get it pinned and make sure i use thread lock on the bolt this time. i had read a few threads with people having the same issues and it turned out to be the same thing so i suppose i should have really taken note :roll: its not a massive job and i was going to change the cambelt soon anyway so might as well do it now. pinned?? :shrug: The pulley and face of the crank shaft are drilled to a precise size and a snug fitting hardened steel pin is used to lock them in the correct location, should offer a bit more protection than the crappy keyway. Lucky you caught that. In terms of no cat or cat lambda probes. The no cat lambda probes have a different system of heating the probe to ensure it gets up to operating temperature quickly - it uses a timer relay system. The CAT ones also have a heater but not on a really as the CAT pipe builds heat faster than no CAT. As for which to fit, the reason they fitted heaters to lambda probes was to increase operational life (about 30k non-heated and 75k heated) so it wont make any difference to the way the lambda value feeds into the ECU. I just ordered the standard probe in the end, they have changed the design of the tip and heater element apparently the new one is a planar style now, according to the technical guy at bosch it should now last more than 160k. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Yandards 0 Posted January 26, 2011 Is the main body slighlty shorter? I know my wideband probe has a shorter body which helps massively with the lack of clearance the wiring loom has to the tunnel covers. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
coolrado 0 Posted January 26, 2011 Is the main body slighlty shorter? I know my wideband probe has a shorter body which helps massively with the lack of clearance the wiring loom has to the tunnel covers. Nah the body looks identical to the old one just the tip that's changed, see pics ^^^^ supposedly it's a design that was originally used for wideband sensors but it's now being used on narrowband it also allows the heater to reach operating temperature quicker. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Yandards 0 Posted January 27, 2011 Is the main body slighlty shorter? I know my wideband probe has a shorter body which helps massively with the lack of clearance the wiring loom has to the tunnel covers. Nah the body looks identical to the old one just the tip that's changed, see pics ^^^^ supposedly it's a design that was originally used for wideband sensors but it's now being used on narrowband it also allows the heater to reach operating temperature quicker. Heh I bet its cheaper to produce than the old one as well :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davidwort 0 Posted January 27, 2011 the new bosch lambda I've just had looks like the old one (right in your pic) TBH the old design has done bloody well, car's on 143K and it's the original lambda, it was still passing the MOT emissions test as we ran that to check first, just the lambda value was wavering about a little, new one from ECP with a trade discount was only about 35 quid 8) this was on a 2L 8v but I doubt that makes much difference Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
coolrado 0 Posted January 27, 2011 the new bosch lambda I've just had looks like the old one (right in your pic) TBH the old design has done bloody well, car's on 143K and it's the original lambda, it was still passing the MOT emissions test as we ran that to check first, just the lambda value was wavering about a little, new one from ECP with a trade discount was only about 35 quid 8) this was on a 2L 8v but I doubt that makes much difference Yeah my original one has done 170k but the output is reduced and intermittent, got mine from ECP as well (that discount has saved me a fortune over the last couple of weeks) the original thimble type has a 100k km life span according to Bosch and the planar type is meant to last 160k km. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pummer67 0 Posted January 27, 2011 you should change your bottom pulley bolt for a new one as they can shear in time. Just thought i better say incase you use same bolt. Ideal time to change while its out anyway. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
coolrado 0 Posted January 27, 2011 Yeah I got a new bolt, pulley and 4 bolts for the outer pulley, about 30 quid for the lot, just can't do anything with them until I'm back from Scotland. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
coolrado 0 Posted January 29, 2011 new pulley, drilled and pinned ready to go, just need to find my bigger torque wrench and line all the marks up tomorrow, also noticed the 12 month old (non genuine) cambelt tensioner seems a bit rough so its just as well thats being changed, also the new bolt i bought from vw is not pre oiled. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
burn-rubber-not-soul 0 Posted March 19, 2011 Bugger me glad I come cross this drive to work about 16miles for me get real poor mpg but went to Telford other week hitting 43mpg not prob I was bit confuesed or wot u guys jus saved me loads of money jus hope that's the reason she so thirsty Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
