Bosch Vauxhall/Saab coil pack

[Roan 0]

Doing a bit of research on Vortex and here, I'm looking at a solution to a likely knackered coil pack (hesitation when cold and generally at low speeds/WOT). I'd rather not invest in another brand new Beru one or the like, only for it to give up again in a year or two. I've scored a brand new Bosch motorsport one as pictured:

 

 

Now I know it'll bolt on to the ICU, but I can't find a suitable pigtail connector which takes the four pins on the coil to the spade connectors on the ICM. Anyone know if there is a suitable VW connector or even Vauxhall/Saab? Is there a better solution?

[StueyB 0]

Very interested to hear from people on this one.

 

My brother is a Saab tech so I can probably find out what Saab's they feature on and help track down suitable donor vehicles.

 

Would be nice to come up with some form of plug and play solutions as I really hate the sight of "chopped-about" OEM looms.

[science 0]

 

Now I know it'll bolt on to the ICU, but I can't find a suitable pigtail connector which takes the four pins on the coil to the spade connectors on the ICM. Anyone know if there is a suitable VW connector or even Vauxhall/Saab? Is there a better solution?

 

How about a 4-pin Junior Power Timer connector.

 

http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/680

[science 0]

Any progress with this?

[Roan 0]

I'm taking apart an old coil pack this weekend and might get the new one together and on the car, but I'll report any progress ASAP.

[VR6Pete 0]

Any update mate?

[Kevin Bacon 5]

I've been using one of those for 3 years. Good coil pack, nice strong spark.

[Roan 0]

Haven't had a chance to put this together yet but I've still got a few hesitation issues under load, so I'll hopefully get it sorted in the next few weeks.

[science 0]

I've just picked up one of these 2nd hand this evening.

Bosch Part No 0221503002 as fitted to Vauxhall, Saab and Ferrari F50 !!

 

http://www.bosch-motorsport.com/pdf/components/ignition_coils/3x2.pdf

 

The physical differences between my old Bosch coil-pack/ICM 0221603447 and this are;

It mounts upside-down so the top and bottom row of connectors are reversed.

There is no provision for the 3 rivets which secure it to the ICM.

The electrical connections are via 4 way Junior Power Timer connector.

 

Depending on your source coil-pack for the ICM the disassembly will differ.

This may be useful if you have a different style coil-pack;

 

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4587707-The-innards-of-the-ICM

 

Separating the components of the old coil pack may be difficult as aside from 2 screws,

the ICM is secured to the central spacer plate by brittle plastic tabs which are glued in.

(The 4 rivets on the back of this coil-pack do not need to be removed, whoops.)

Once the ICM is off 3 rivets run horizontally across the central plate this need to be drilled out to release the coil-pack.

I've reassembled with pressure sensitive tape, although the four allen bolts should hold it all together.

Now for the wiring....

[science 0]

Well Roan, looks like I've actually bought your old coilpack, Cheers.

So, if anyone else following this thread, here's the wiring info;

I would advise caution in proceeding. You can damage your ECU and or ICM pretty easily, follow at your own risk.

 

Testing the secondary resistance of the coils gives;

coil 1-4 11.63k ohm

coil 3-6 11.65k ohm

coil 2-5 11.56k ohm

Not too far off the 12k on the spec sheet so we are good to continue.

 

Although...

The coilpack ht terminal numbers should be ignored as in the saab/vauxhall has a different firing order;

Saab/Vauxhall firing order 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 - 5 - 6

VW vr6 firing order 1 - 5 - 3 - 6 - 2 - 4

therefore the coils are paired differently (1&4, 3&6, 5&2 as opposed to 6&1, 4&3, 2&5)

 

The original coilpack looks like this;

[ 6 | 4 | 2 ]

[ 1 | 3 | 5 ]

 

When installed the saab coilpack looks like this;

[ 1 | 3 | 5 ]

[ 4 | 6 | 2 ]

 

So when connecting the ht leads to the new coil we can just keep the original layout

[ 6 | 4 | 2 ]

[ 1 | 3 | 5 ]

 

I should probably re-label the coilpack... maybe later.

 

5pin plug from ECU into ICM (as viewed from above Pin 1 is at the front of the engine)

 

Wiring needed from ICM to Coilpack

 

In the interests of keeping it OEMish (and cheap) I've extracted a 4 way JPT plug/pigtail from a 20v engine ICM.

 

The plug just fits in between water pipes;

 

The fit on the ht lead plugs is a bit tight, a little bit of silicone grease works wonders.

 

So far the car seems much better for this mod, smoother idle and more responsive at low revs.

Honestly, I can't believe how much of a difference it's made!

The previous coilpack has only been on for 18 months and it was never this good new.

Time for some proper testing... :-D

Edited April 25, 2014 by science
Wiring needed from ICM to Coilpack now correct thanks to J.C

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Good work!

 

One thing worth mentioning looking at your pics, Pin 4 on the coilpack should be +12V, not ground.

[science 0]

Good work!

 

One thing worth mentioning looking at your pics, Pin 4 on the coilpack should be +12V, not ground.

 

Cheers Kev.

I've put it right now.

[VRTrickster 0]

Great write up! This has helped me out a lot. Just a couple of questions. What is the minimum wire gauge I should be using? Also I have the original vauxhall type plug for the coil pack. I was wondering what size/type terminals I need to order to put in the plug moulding? I was thinking of ordering them from Vehicle Wiring Products. If anyone could advise that would be great.

Edited April 18, 2012 by VRTrickster

[science 0]

Great write up! This has helped me out a lot. Just a couple of questions. What is the minimum wire gauge I should be using? Also I have the original vauxhall type plug for the coil pack. I was wondering what size/type terminals I need to order to put in the plug moulding? I was thinking of ordering them from Vehicle Wiring Products. If anyone could advise that would be great.

 

Glad it's been useful!

Let me know how it works out.

 

Recommend the same gauge wire as coming into the coil from the engine bay loom.

 

So, is it this bit your after based on the Vauxhall plug?

[ATTACH=CONFIG]60089[/ATTACH]

I went to the breakers for it, most VW/AUDI engine bays will have some, with a nice rubber to boot.

 

Then just crimp some of these on (4mm Ring terminal for up to 25Amp)

[ATTACH=CONFIG]60093[/ATTACH]

 

Or to make from scratch at

http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/680

using parts;

 

1x 051503 4 way female housing. £2.96

4x 051602 Female terminal for use with 1.5-2.5 sq mm cable. £0.39 each

4x 051801 Wire seal (1.2-2.1mm cable diameter). Blue. £0.21 each

[Stonejag 10]

On one of my last scrappy missions I scrounged a coilpack out of a 3.3l V6 Chrysler (think it was a Grand Voyager) - it's a GM one though so you can't use the standard lead ends. Not really worried as it cost me the grand sum of £0 :D When I have a mo I'm planning to swap the VW ICM for a Bosch standalone one - should be much more robust, the only reason for keeping the VW one is so you can retain the connector...

 

My engine's sounding *much* happier with the inlet and PCV pipework sorted out, so with new plugs and coilpack it should feel even better!

 

Stone

[VRTrickster 0]

Right, I've tried this out but with no success:(

I built the coil pack up as described and wired to your drawings. The only difference is I have to use spade terminals. The car didn't even want to start! I was thinking could it be my wiring as I just used bits from old looms I have which are I'd say 1.5 to 2mm so I could plug into the original plug.

I've been to the scrappy today and picked up another calibra coil pack and the plug with plenty of cable left on it. I tried the pack and still wont even start. It could be that I have brought two duff coil packs but for it to not even fire up roughly, I think its something else?

 

I have pulled back the boot of the vauxhall plug loom and with it plugged into the pack the thick cable which I assume is 12v+ is on the opposite side to your wiring diagram? Some help would be great. I just need to know where the other 3 wires are meant to be assuming that is the 12v feed?

[science 0]

Right just to check the basics first.

1) is it definitely the same cool pack as in the pdf, Bosch part no 0221503002?

2) can you check the resistance of the coils? should be 12k ohm.

3) is the ICM known to be ok?

4) does the ICM have the same connection order at the spade terminals?

5) are the leads connected in the right order?

VR6 lead 1 to coil pack terminal 4

VR6 lead 2 to coil pack terminal 5

VR6 lead 3 to coil pack terminal 6

VR6 lead 4 to coil pack terminal 3

VR6 lead 5 to coil pack terminal 2

VR6 lead 6 to coil pack terminal 1

6) can you get a spark from all or any of the spark plugs?

Edited April 28, 2012 by science

[science 0]

Actually thinking about it, If you have spade terminals on the ICM you have a different make, is it a beru coil pack?

Are the spade terminals on the top of the coil pack? If so they are probably connected in a different order.

Got any pictures of your setup?

[VRTrickster 0]

The leads where in there usual location with the coil pack installed upside down like yours. Yes they are the same part number. I'm trying to get some pics up, it's just I've got a new flashy phone and haven't worked it out yet. It is a Beru pack but the ICM contacts are at the top near the main 5 pin socket. I've had the car running with the the coil pack that the ICM has come from but is there a way I can test it?

The resistances of both coil packs is just under 11.5 about on each pair. The ICM connections are when fitted to the car from left to right are 1/6, 3/4, 2/5, 15.

 

Thanks Rick

Edited April 28, 2012 by VRTrickster

[VRTrickster 0]

Here are some pics of the set up.

[Stonejag 10]

If you've checked the resistance between the coilpack pins then it'll be wiring or a duff set of coils. You should be able to find the pairs easily enough (one pin attached to all three coils - the 12v one - and then three more for the other end of the coils). If you get the non-common wires switched around then you'll be able to make it work by swapping the ignition leads around, at the risk of confusing yourself! From memory, from the front the coilpack lead order is

 

(plug)

6/4/2

1/3/5

 

My money's on your wiring.

 

The Chavalier one I bought measures 0 Ohms from any pin to any other pin so it's shorted internally and useless :(

[VRTrickster 0]

Ok, going to have another go at this today seeing as though I'm of work and it's not raining yet. I'll check the ICM first to see if it is triggering. If the leads are in the correct order I'll be able to just swap round the three spade terminals to the coil pairs. I'll let you know how I get on.

[science 0]

If it helps, Im sure I've seen a pin out for the beru coil pack on an old Vw vortex thread about swapping to msd coils. I'm sure you could also check the continuity from the loom plug to the spade outputs to though.

[VRTrickster 0]

If it helps, Im sure I've seen a pin out for the beru coil pack on an old Vw vortex thread about swapping to msd coils. I'm sure you could also check the continuity from the loom plug to the spade outputs to though.

 

I didn't get chance to look at it today, to busy. Probably Friday now. I have checked the continuity of the wiring and it's fine. I might of blown the ICM maybe trying cables in the wrong order. We'll see.

[VRTrickster 0]

Right I sorted it yesterday. So the wiring for the spade type connections are:

 

VR6 Vauxhall Pin out

 

1/6 - 3

3/4 - 2

2/5 - 1

12V - 4

 

I haven't noticed a considerable difference but I haven't driven it much yet. Although I did replace the battery at the same time so needs to calibrate again. It does seem to rev smoother:)