Cutting out and misfiring!!

[Sam.l 0]

Hey all,

I'm about to go a bit mental unless anyone can shed any light on this! I have a '91 g60 that I recently had the charger rebuilt and stage 4'd and 68mm pulley added. It already has an Sns chip too. When I put the charger back in I changed the plugs, filters and oil. Ever since it's been back on the road it seems to cut out for no apparent reason on idle, for example sitting at the lights, and misfiring/losing power when putting your foot down. The most frustrating thing is its not continuous, the car will be fine for a couple of weeks and then one morning drive like a bag of crap. I've checked the leads, and plugs, and the distributor cap, as well as the fuelling sensor on the intake pipe before the manifold. Could it be the wiring to the isv? Or the injectors? Or maybe fuel pump? Or an earthing issue??? Any suggestions or advice would be much appreciated! For the sake of my sanity, please help!

Thanks a lot peeps.

[pbradley98 0]

Hi,

 

I've just been having a similar but less extreme kind of issue with my VR - fine for a while then cut out at high revs, then fine, then wouldn't start, then fine, then cut out at high revs, then fine..... At Stealth at the moment and there's a MAF fault code, so if may be worth checking yours (or could be completely fine, equally I know very little about G60s so not sure how they compare to a VR MAF!)...

 

Cheers

 

Phil

[Sam.l 0]

Thanks pbradley98, am open to look at all possibilities! I'm 90% sure it's something to do with an earth, backtracking to when I put it all back together I realised that there was a small earth on the side of the distributor housing that had come off. I reattached it but of course the problem persists, however slightly less I think! I think there is another earth bolted to the water donate on the right side of the head,im wondering whether I might of snapped the wire by accident, I wasn't sure at the time cos to look at it you wouldn't notice. But felt something when moving it. Thats the next port of call I think, then onto another no doubt ha.........

[Sam.l 0]

Aaaaarrrggh, I'm this close to breaking out the baseball bat! After running faultlessly for nearly two weeks, one trip to telco and it ran like a bag of s**t. Is there anyone out there that could explain as to why this is happening so inconsistently? Next thing is if it stays dry later I'm gona pull all the plugs out to see if any one of them is more worse for wear than the other, bearing in mind they are brand new. But could this cause the cutting out or just the misfiring. Someone help please!

[steveo29 0]

ecu relay can cause some wierd stuff, theyre only a tenner or so

[Sam.l 0]

For the sake of a tenner Ill replace it anyway. One thing I can tick off too. That is if I can look at the car without getting annoyed ha. Thanks steveo29. Has anyone else had any similar experiences and can shed any light????

 

---------- Post added at 12:22 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:21 AM ----------

 

Can I get the relay from the dealers? Or is it a generic relay from GSF or summit?

[steveo29 0]

mine had a case of juddering when warm , was almost undrivable , that was the o2 sensor but it was consistant

 

you can jump out and unplug the sensor down near the rear engine mount , if its all good when you unplug then replace the o2 sensor

 

if its not had one latley a new genuin blue temp sender might be an idea too ..never hurts

[Sam.l 0]

Right, got a genuine vw ecu relay and of course the problem persists. A friend of mine is convinced it could be an earthing problem so I guess next on the list is to set about replacing and adding earths to see if it makes any difference. I'll have a look at the temp and o2 sensors/senders, do you think it could realistically be a factor in why the car is having these problems? Am at a bit of a loss at the mo and just trying to get as much advice and info as I can. It goes on!

[andycowuk 0]

when you say you have checked the leads, what have you checked? I had bahn Brenner ones on and they were fine to look at but the car ran really badly. One of them when I touched it (I was feeling brave) I could feel it pulsing... when I replaced the leads it ran perfect again.

 

A

[Wild-Animal 0]

if you have checked your earths, then try even if you can borrow a set of ht leads just to rule them out

[Sam.l 0]

That's a good call. Maybe in my naiveity to look at the leads seemed fine and that's why I hadn't thought about them. But also was thinking about the things I have changed since puttin the charger back on and never had a problem with the leads beforehand. could it be the cause of the cutting out though? Will look into replacing them, can anyone suggest a good set of leads at a good price? Have spent too much on sorting the car out already!

[Sam.l 0]

Anyone?

[andycowuk 0]

someone is selling a set on cars for breaking...

 

but you could try running the car and removing one at a time, to see if you can tell anything from that - remember you'll need to remove it from the distributor rather than the spark plug to remove any potential failure from the circuit - and take precautions when ****ing about with the HT circuit - probably best turned off, started again to test and then turned off, to try the next one...

 

Obviously this will make the car run rough, but it should at least rev ok and allow you to evaluate if its a different kind of rough! You won't be able to illiminate the king lead without a replacement...

 

Do you have any G60 owenrs local that could help you out?

 

A

Edited August 22, 2011 by andycowuk

[P3rks 11]

http://www.vwspares.co.uk/corrado_electrical.php

 

Beru, good OE quality, el cheapo. I just bought some Beru HT's, dizzy cap and rotor arm from here which cured my misfire.

[Sam.l 0]

Thanks enthusiastowned, I'll check them out. It may be a possibility as I havnt changed either of those 3 items since having the car nearly 2 years ago. Probably be worth changing the leads anyway for that reason. Andycowuk, got a friend who's a hive of knowledge when it comes to G's, he's convinced it's an earthing issue, but having replaced some of the earths and it still happening I wonder whether it could be leads now. Bearing in mind that I had changed the plugs recently and trying to think what has changed, and that leads obviously lead off from the plugs it could well be that.

[P3rks 11]

Which earth(s) did you replace? Iirc there is only the earth from the battery to the chassis leg/gearbox and then the coil to the throttle body. The earth from the bonnet to body is only for the stereo electric interference. I wouldn't recommend adding any extra earths as it's known to give the ECU the hump. Make sure you clean any contact point for the earths.

 

Also, what plugs did you fit?

 

Does this problem happen from cold or warm? or both? on partial throttle or full throttle? or both? or only on idle?

[andycowuk 0]

I was thinking more of using the friends HT leads rather than their knowledge!

[Sam.l 0]

I replaced the coil to throttle body on the back of the inlet manifold, but didn't seem to make any difference. I was told that one of the two small wires bolted over the water flange on the side of the head was an earth too. Do you know or not? I have yet to add any earths, but will hold back if it messes with the ecu. Also, would it be worth changing the earth from the battery then? The plugs were changed for the correct Bosch w6po items iirc, have got the invoice in the house. the problem persists regardless of whether it's on full/ partial throttle, idle, cold, warm! That's why it's driving me so nuts, as well as the fact it is not consistent. But somehow is worse at the mo.

[P3rks 11]

Yes, you're right, there are two (maybe 3?) brown wires going the the water flange on the side of the head. Might be a good idea to remove them and clean the contacts/eyelits.

 

Yes, I would recommend at least cleaning the contacts for the main earth from the battery to the chassis/gearbox. My old Mk2 golf had a cutting out issue which then ended up with a fried ECU leaving the injectors fully open and fuel pump priming (not fun). Which was down to a dodgy main engine earth.

[steveo29 0]

not convinced leads would cause a stall , but its nice to have fresh ones if their old ones on it

 

when its running go round and poke n prod all the conectors , relays etc , you might be able to make it happen on demand and find and duff conection

[Sam.l 0]

Gonna have a go at this tonight. Well, clean all the contacts to the earths and have a poke around to see if I can find pinpoint the problem. That would be nice, had enough of not knowing! Yeah I wasn't sure about the leads causing the stall either, but will replace anyway to tick off the list. Will let you know my findings!

[Sam.l 0]

Well, touch wood, it seems I may have cured the corrado. Replaced the main earth on the inlet manifold, but it was the small ring connector on the small earths attached to the water flange on the side of the head that seems to have done the trick. Been running fine for nearly a week, fingers crossed :-)

[Sam.l 0]

I think i might have to just sit down and cry in the very near future as the corrado just doesnt want to play ball!! More misfiring, cutting out, and what seems to be freezing at a certain rev range, putting my foot on the gas doesnt do anything until i put in neutrel and it then cuts out. After running fine for over 3 weeks it is now worse than ever. It has been since i had changed the dizzy cap and rotor arm a few days ago as it was in need of doing. I have checked all the wires from around where i was working as well as being carefull to refit exactly as it was when taking the old ones off. Is there something i need to be checking or something i have missed? Could it still be an earth issue? I cant think how! A mechanic friend of mine said it could be the air sensor or water sensor as they would have an influence on the timing and fuelling. It seems to be a fuelling/ecu issue do you think? Im pretty sure the air sensor on the pipework back from the intercooler to inlet manifod is fine as it has been running with it for some time, im guessing the water sensor is the blue plug on the front of the block? would the replacement of the dizzy cap and rotor arm of caused a fault in it? Any help would be appreciated. This is so exhausting and frustrating!

[elliott 10]

Have you pluged it in for a VAGCOM scan? Takes all the guess work out of problems like this, unfortunatly its not really plug and play but once you know the trick it works a treat. All you need is an old laptop and the cable from ebay (£7) oh and the 2+2 adaptor thing if your cars older.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

It's a G60 chap. VAG-COM can only talk to the ABS ECU on those cars.