VR6 running in after rebuild

[Rpmayne 0]

Hopefully I should be able to get the VR6 running tonight after a rebore, oversized pistons/rings, new valve guides, bearings..... endless list. Does anyone know where I can find a running in procedure for this engine?

 

Have been looking on the internet and there is alot of different advice. Most seem to say fast idle of around 2500rpm for the first 15min after cranking over without the spark plugs to get oil pressure. Some also say vary the revs between 2500-4000rpm for the first 15min.

 

Next, some are saying load the engine up a hill to get the engine hot so the bores de-glaze and the rings suit the bores. I have also been told to just take it easy for the first 1500mls, long journeys so the engines at running temperature and alternate speed to run in.

 

One agreement is that this is the most critical time for the engine so I got to be sure.

 

Thanks.

[Linus Van Pelt 0]

Doesn't the VW manual come with a running in procedure? I'd have a look in there and see what it says...

 

DtM.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

I would just go to VW, ask them what oil or what blend and viscosity they use in new engines, stick some in and just drive it normally, avoiding thrashing it. Just gradually increase the rev limit (yours, not the engine's) over a period of 2000 miles until it feels happy to rev to the limiter.

 

It's not a prehistoric engine and doesn't need to be treated with kid gloves for fear of busting it. Be too ginger with it and the rings won't bed into the honing fully.

 

K

[CoxyLaad 0]

you should see what they do in the factory to brand new never been started just built cars.

I used to worok at Nissan and the cars get so far down the line, then have the fluids put in them, a thimble full of petrol and they are fired up, dumped on a set of rollers and taken to max rpm in 4th gear.....

 

I think engine running in procedures are a waste of time (for Nissans anyway)

[Kevin Bacon 5]

you should see what they do in the factory to brand new never been started just built cars.

I used to worok at Nissan and the cars get so far down the line, then have the fluids put in them, a thimble full of petrol and they are fired up, dumped on a set of rollers and taken to max rpm in 4th gear.....

 

I think engine running in procedures are a waste of time (for Nissans anyway)

 

I wouldn't do anything like Nissan do, but agreed, 'running in' has no place in the 21st century. Tolerances are much finer and parts a lot stronger, so unless you're a complete bafoon and bounce a new engine off the rev-limiter from day one, you won't wreck a new lump.

 

K

[dinkus 10]

My advice from experience with go-kart engines (yeah it's not a 2.9l VR6, but their much more highly tuned) is to ALWAYS ALWAYS let it warm up gently, which is probably the high idle advice you've had.

 

Then when the engine is properly warmed up, load it up either going up a hill or accelerating hard and lifting off letting the engine take the load (make sure there's nobody behind you ;) )

 

There's no point in being gentle with it because if there is something wrong enough to cause it to pop then it will pop anyway.

 

By loading the engine up like this, it beds the piston rings in nicely to get a good fit.

 

As far as oil goes, I'd go with kev's advice on using the VW oil and then change it after the first 1000 miles or so.

 

The fastest karting engines I've seen have been ones that have been thrashed hard straight out of the box and I've read similar articles online saying the same thing. The most popular one is http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm which tells you all about what to do and what not to do.

 

When it comes to it though, the choice is yours :) but whatever you do, never thrash a cold engine :D

[Storm 0]

The manual says never give it more than 3/4 of max revs or full throttle for fist 600 miles and then gentley increase.

 

The advice I got from the salesman (yes I do remember this as I've always done this) when I picked up my MkII 8V was:

First 600 miles do not go over 4000rpm and never give it full throttle. Then gradually increase rev limit up to 1000 miles and go for it. I would change the oil at this point. As always never thrash from cold.

 

How long did it take you, how difficult was it?

[Rpmayne 0]

Cheer people, ran it up last night and once it settled down it was sweet, well nice to hear it going again.

 

Has taken about 2.5 months in total, the main problems were finding the bits and the every increasing costs. :( Could have bought a whole corrado for the amount I've had to spend, but it was a case of being too financially comitted to this car so had to continue. Tried to do as much myself (and a few mates working for beers) as possible. The main things we didn't do was fitting the new valve guides, rebore/hone and rebuilding the bottom end with all new bearings and seals.

 

If anyone is considering doing this I would first speak to John (16VG60) from John Mitchell Racing on 07974 020031. After finding out the bottom end was in trouble I gave him a ring and it was sorted from there. I took it to John and he stripped and rebuilt it after getting 82.5mm (oversized) pistons and rings and a rebore to suit. Also painted the block which I thought was a nice touch, although being a VR6 it difficult to see anything past the top cover. Well good price for the work too, and this didn't include the numberous phone calls I made for advice.

[Bolster 0]

I used to do a bit of waterski racing and the owner of the boat had a theory that the donk should be run in as it was going to be used. After warming up a new motor he would run it flat chat with a rich oil mix until it 'freed up'. Then an oil change was all he would do. I am in no way suggesting this is how to treat your new motor as you probably won't be wanting to replace or rebuild it again within a year but the theory is an interesting one and we always had a fast boat. :)