VW_OwneR_85 2 Posted June 28, 2012 has anyone done this? the benefits would be haveing a sealed bearing the same as the vr's front over the tapered roller bearing, i would imagine you would need three bits , carrier http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-BORA-MK4-GOLF-REAR-BRAKE-CALIPER-Caliper-Carrier-/140767359625?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item20c6637289 stub axle http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-Golf-Mk4-Bora-Drivers-Side-Rear-Hub-Stub-Axle-With-Good-Bearings-AUDI-SEAT-/320916911328?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4ab82374e0 and a new disc to match the hub, havent got a clue how the mk4 stub axle lines up on the corrado , but i think its somthing i might look into Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted June 28, 2012 The MK4 bits are a different stud pattern but Lupo / Polo parts work, I have all the bits but not got round to doing the conversion yet, bearings cost £70 each as they are integrated with the hubs and only appear to last around the same time as the taper sort - ie 80k-120k miles There is a thread on clubGTI with pics about the conversion Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VW_OwneR_85 2 Posted June 28, 2012 cool, my corrados a vr6 so its 5x100 same as mk4 golf 2.0 , didnt know the rear bearings were integrated? ebay searched mk4 golf rear wheel bearing and you can buy them seperate. but i just read a thread from 2006 and apparently the caliper carrier bolt holes arent present on the mk4 stub axle as they are on the corrado stub axle, so thinking around this idd have to make a plate with the caliper carrier bolt holes that goes inbetween the stub axle and the main axle assembley to secure the caliper carrier inplace, but appaerently the stub axle from a 2005 polo has the carrier bolt holes on the stub axle? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted June 28, 2012 No... the stub axel hole don't line up, MK4 Golf is bigger... the Lupo setup comes with a plate that includes the carrier holes. I think the 4-Motion and R32 uses separate bearings, all other models are the same integrated ones Will find the CGTI thread... ---------- Post added at 2:00 PM ---------- Previous post was at 1:58 PM ---------- http://www.clubgti.com//showthread.php?t=177988/showthread.php http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?168365-mk4-style-stub-axel-on-a-mk2/page3 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VW_OwneR_85 2 Posted June 28, 2012 cheers for that, ill have a proper butchers later, i like this method http://vagdrivers.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=22683&hl=rear+axle very tidey Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seanl82 23 Posted June 29, 2012 seems a lot of hassle and expense for no real gains if their life span is the same anyway..........:shrug: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted June 29, 2012 The main benefit is no play in the bearings. Taper bearings if not installed correctly have excessive play, which makes the steering feel woolly and the back end loose. And incorrectly installed taper bearings wear out very quickly too and VAG have tripled the price of them since I last did a pair. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VW_OwneR_85 2 Posted June 29, 2012 i wouldnt say theres no real gains , sealed cartridge bearings are far better , which is why there put up front to handle turns and the extra weight , tighten them up and you forget about them untill there worn, i know which one idd rather have, besides im 99% sure the sealed bearings will last alot longer then tapered not to mention once the conversions done its done for good not just a weekend, i helped my friend replace his rear bearings on a 96 renault clio the other day i was blady shocked to find out they had sealed bearings on the rear!! has a very similar setup to the C where the bearings go into the disc, but didnt expect that on a blady clio of all cars Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted June 29, 2012 Taper bearings were a sign of the times. Little wheels and low weight over the back wheels. There was no real call for anything better until the MK4 came along, which was heavier and wore heavier, fatter wheels and tyres. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
boost monkey 0 Posted June 29, 2012 No... the stub axel hole don't line up, MK4 Golf is bigger... the Lupo setup comes with a plate that includes the carrier holes. I think the 4-Motion and R32 uses separate bearings, all other models are the same integrated ones Will find the CGTI thread... ---------- Post added at 2:00 PM ---------- Previous post was at 1:58 PM ---------- http://www.clubgti.com//showthread.php?t=177988/showthread.php http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?168365-mk4-style-stub-axel-on-a-mk2/page3 So every time a bearing goes it's £70 AND you have to replace the stub axles? doesn't sound like a good swap to me (unless I've misunderstood something!) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davidwort 0 Posted June 29, 2012 I'm sure yandards said the c130 Hercules uses taper bearings :) i can't see it's worth it, granted, changing the rear disks on my mk4 was easy compared to the corrado, but now I've finally mastered fitting and tightening the rear taper bearings all that effort and cost to fit (heavier?) sealed units seems a bit of a waste. I reckon it had more to do with weight of vehicles than anything else that vw moved to these rather than design a new larger taper bearing which would probably have ended up being heavier than the equivalent strength sealed bearing and disk. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted June 29, 2012 I'm sure yandards said the c130 Hercules uses taper bearings :) i can't see it's worth it, granted, changing the rear disks on my mk4 was easy compared to the corrado, but now I've finally mastered fitting and tightening the rear taper bearings all that effort and cost to fit (heavier?) sealed units seems a bit of a waste. I reckon it had more to do with weight of vehicles than anything else that vw moved to these rather than design a new larger taper bearing which would probably have ended up being heavier than the equivalent strength sealed bearing and disk. This is it... basically discs seem to last around 80k on the rear anyway so you just fit new discs and bearings at the same time... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted June 29, 2012 I can still never get the sodding tapers 100% right, so I just get Stealth to do them now. I do exactly what Vince does but mine always come loose again after a few hundred miles. I wonder if my stubbies are worn out? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VW_OwneR_85 2 Posted June 29, 2012 I can still never get the sodding tapers 100% right, so I just get Stealth to do them now. I do exactly what Vince does but mine always come loose again after a few hundred miles. I wonder if my stubbies are worn out? when i first did mine, they were fine and then came loose so i tightend them back up, think they just need to be set in properly and then re adjusted {after a certain amount of miles from fitting} , im guessing if there not re adjusted with in a certain amount of time the play will wear them out fast! which is probably why ppl have problems with them, the only problem iv got with mine now is a slighlty wavey disc which rubs abit , its not bad though.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Edwards 0 Posted June 30, 2012 I'm with Boost Monkey. The parts are cheap and easy to fix, you just tighten the nut with your fingers until the washer starts to bind and the job's done*??? *There's a few other bits to do afterwards, but this is all that's involved in getting the taper bearings fitted correctly. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wormy 0 Posted July 1, 2012 Yeah, my experience is also that you have to re-tighten them after a few weeks or so. I've done mine according to the Bentley - you should be able to move the washer by pressing lightly against it with a screwdriver. Then after a few weeks, re-check (re-tighten), and no problems since.. :-) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites