VR ABS Pump

[eugopnosaj 0]

So, my ABS light is on continuously, VAG COM gives the following codes:

 

00276 - ABS Outlet Valve; Left Rear (N136)

35-00 - -

00280 - Differential Lock Valve 2 (N126)

35-00 -

00532 - Transmission Control Module Relay - Supply Voltage

35-00 -

 

My MOT is due next month and I've had this issue for a little while, sometimes it goes away but its been on for best part of 2 months now...looks like I'm probably going to need a new pump, either second hand or brand new. In terms of brand new what costs and where could i get one? Second hand, would the pump from a VR golf fit? Part numbers are similar:

 

Corrado: 1H2614117A

 

Golf: 1H2614217A

 

Many thanks!

[guildmage 11]

Gosh don't envy you. I spent little fortune trying to fix similar issue. My ABS light is also ON most of the time, but there are days when it works just fine. Also same re-appearing issue on vagcom: rear ABS sensor and supply voltage. Was also told by 2 different mechanics it possibly need new ABS pump, and that new pump would be +£1200 - but no clue what real price is. Sorry couldn't be more helpful but I will be watching this thread with great interest.

 

Can I also ask, is your ABS light usually OK, after long drive and then switch off engine take keys out and then put them back and start engine again? Mine usually is, but only after longer drive. I was lucky on my MOT since ABS surprisingly worked fine, so I passed, but I know I have to get it fixed sooner or later.

[eugopnosaj 0]

Well luckily it passed the MOT last year with the light coming on and off but lately its been on constantly. There were a few other errors but that was because I'd actually locked the brakes up and it reckoned there were errors with a couple of the sensors. I erased the faults and they haven't come back but i can't get rid of those three.

 

Unfortunaly the light hasn't been off in a long time, theres only one other way to cheat the system to get it through the MOT and sort it out afterwards. In order to pass the light needs to come on and then go off, you can buy a cheap kit from maplin that has a timer in it, you can then wire it up to the ignition and a fake ABS light, set the timer for a couple of seconds then it turns off automatically...

 

Its something i've been thinking of as a short term thing in case I cannot get a new pump/second hand pump sorted...

Edited November 20, 2012 by eugopnosaj

[guildmage 11]

Just for MOT its maybe a way, but then ultimately it is my life on the line in the long term :( It would be nice to have a working ABS...

[timthetinyhorse 0]

any link to said kit?

 

would be ideal for those of us who have had issues with abs just around mot time

[Metallix 10]

I have a working ABS pump in the garage, from my old Mk3 Golf 1H2 614 217 A

Removed as the car was worth more in bits than as a whole. ABS module is available too.

This was from a 16V fitted with EDL differential lock, so it's not exclusive to VR6 vehicles.

[D.A.M IT! 0]

Gosh don't envy you. I spent little fortune trying to fix similar issue. My ABS light is also ON most of the time, but there are days when it works just fine. Also same re-appearing issue on vagcom: rear ABS sensor and supply voltage. Was also told by 2 different mechanics it possibly need new ABS pump, and that new pump would be +£1200 - but no clue what real price is. Sorry couldn't be more helpful but I will be watching this thread with great interest.

 

Can I also ask, is your ABS light usually OK, after long drive and then switch off engine take keys out and then put them back and start engine again? Mine usually is, but only after longer drive. I was lucky on my MOT since ABS surprisingly worked fine, so I passed, but I know I have to get it fixed sooner or later.

 

I had exactly the same problem as this a while ago guildmage. My ABS light was on constantly, but after a long drive and then turning the ignition off and then on again the light would go out and the ABS worked perfectly. It turned out to be a bad connection on the leads going into the ABS pump. It just needed a good a squirt of WD40 and a bit of brass wire brushing to clean the connectors of any dirt or corrosion and its been fine ever since..... Always worth checking the simple things first.

Edited November 21, 2012 by D.A.M IT!

[Kevin Bacon 5]

So, my ABS light is on continuously, VAG COM gives the following codes:

 

00276 - ABS Outlet Valve; Left Rear (N136)

35-00 - -

00280 - Differential Lock Valve 2 (N126)

35-00 -

 

The first one I believe is the

 

When did it last have a full and thorough flush through with a power bleeder? Should be done every couple of years really.

 

The errors can also be shifted by finding a quiet road and repeatedly triggering the ABS. The ABS is very rarely called upon in day to day life, so things can get a little crudded up in there through lack of use.

 

Failing that, I think KIPVR or KIPVW stripped down the pump to it's component parts and rebuilt it with new seals etc. I'd do that as opposed to shelling out for a new pump personally as there isn't really a lot that can go wrong with them mechanically.

[eugopnosaj 0]

any link to said kit?

 

would be ideal for those of us who have had issues with abs just around mot time

 

http://www.maplin.co.uk/mk111-adjustable-timer-with-relay-output-25224

 

Can you solder ;) I used it on my valver when the trigger from my alarm didnt unlock the central locking properly, was really annoying and this did the job

 

The first one I believe is the

 

When did it last have a full and thorough flush through with a power bleeder? Should be done every couple of years really.

 

The errors can also be shifted by finding a quiet road and repeatedly triggering the ABS. The ABS is very rarely called upon in day to day life, so things can get a little crudded up in there through lack of use.

 

Failing that, I think KIPVR or KIPVW stripped down the pump to it's component parts and rebuilt it with new seals etc. I'd do that as opposed to shelling out for a new pump personally as there isn't really a lot that can go wrong with them mechanically.

 

I'll give it a clean through then, I'm going to assume that it has never been done, is this easy enough to do and where would I get a power bleeder from? Also do you know where I'd be able to get new seals if I resort to stripping it down (im not afraid to go that, ive done it with various parts before)

 

Edit: Ok is there anything that can be used instead of a power bleeder? If i can get a way with faking one i'd rather not have to buy one (£60+)

 

I have a working ABS pump in the garage, from my old Mk3 Golf 1H2 614 217 A

Removed as the car was worth more in bits than as a whole. ABS module is available too.

This was from a 16V fitted with EDL differential lock, so it's not exclusive to VR6 vehicles.

 

Thanks but it still doesnt tell me whether a golf one would be suitable for the corrado, whether the ECUs are interchangable etc (i'd rather not have to buy an ECU and a pump)

 

Thanks for the replies guys!

Edited November 21, 2012 by eugopnosaj

[tony_ack 0]

The first one I believe is the

 

When did it last have a full and thorough flush through with a power bleeder? Should be done every couple of years really.

 

The errors can also be shifted by finding a quiet road and repeatedly triggering the ABS. The ABS is very rarely called upon in day to day life, so things can get a little crudded up in there through lack of use.

 

Failing that, I think KIPVR or KIPVW stripped down the pump to it's component parts and rebuilt it with new seals etc. I'd do that as opposed to shelling out for a new pump personally as there isn't really a lot that can go wrong with them mechanically.

 

Just to add, I had a couple of the codes you have and they both disappeared permanently with a couple of flushes of fluid.

 

You can get Eazibleed at Halfords if you're in a pinch, and I'm sure they were a lot less than £60.