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About tony_ack

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    ⋆⋆ CF Donator ⋆⋆
  • Birthday 12/17/1981


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  1. I've cleaned them up a few times (including when I had the starter off a couple of months back) but maybe not enough. For the earths, are you meaning the bulky cable from the starter to the battery? Or the earth points on the head?
  2. I wonder if the one I have is from a 6-speed....
  3. Thanks for the heads up - I think I'm after a new bearing and outer CV joint ultimately
  4. Just an update on this - I investigated the play in the wheel and the hub nut was a little loose! Squeak and grind have now gone.
  5. Hi everyone, I'm trying to fix a starting problem. Sometimes I turn the key and I get no crank. X-over relay kicks in but nothing from the starter. Sometimes it kicks in after a short delay (anything between half a second and about 5-6 seconds) Sometimes it doesn't start at all. I also get an issue where sometimes the starter does spin but it's not engaging with the flywheel (it spins freely). There are a couple more intermittent starting issues but I'm pretty sure these are fuel management/crank sensor related. I changed the ignition switch to rule that out - it seemed fine for a few days and then started doing it again. I am planning to get a refurbed VR6 starter, but is there anything I'm missing that might be causing the problems? Is there anything to look out for when getting a new starter? Differences in years, etc.? I did get a MK4 V5 starter a while back but it's completely the wrong shape.
  6. Thanks for the input - ABS ring *is* slightly distorted - it seems to have enough clearance with the wheel off the ground, but it definitely sounds like this might be it. There's also a little play in the wheel, so the wheel bearing may need replacing too.
  7. Corrado VR6 with 288mm brakes, Koni T/A shocks, -30mm HR springs and 15" Speedlines. It's developed a squeaking/grinding noise on the NSF lately. It's rotational, proportional to vehicle speed rather than engine speed It's intermittent. It's nearly always present when cold, sometimes it goes away when warm, sometimes it comes back again. Happens when the wheels are under engine load, nearly always goes away when coasting in neutral or with the clutch down (but very rarely doesn't) Happens more often when slowing down (either engine braking or with the brakes) Happens slightly more often when steering slightly to the right Braking makes no difference to the noise (if it's squeaking, it'll carry on squeaking the same under braking, if it's not squeaking, braking doesn't make it squeak) Sounds either like thin metal or rubber (my first thought was something fouling on the CV boot, or disc guards) Quite loud when it does it (can be heard inside the car with the windows closed). I've had the wheel off, stripped down the brakes and rebuilt. No evidence of rubbing on inner or outer boots Brake guard (fairly new) had one bolt broken off and was causing an annoying rattle, so reattached - rattle gone, squeak still there. No evidence of rubbing against the disc (guard still coated in black, no scratches) Looks like there has been something catching the caliper at some point, right on the tip. Checked the inside wheel for weights - one was in a position where it may have caught the caliper and had bubbled up with a bit of rust. That said, there was no evidence on the wheel or weight that it had ever been catching, but I still filed down and smoothed the rust on the weights (took a good 1mm off). No different at all to squeak/grind. No evidence of tyre rubbing, or anything that could catch it Everything else looks fine and secure. Any ideas what it could be?
  8. I went for Hanook Ventus Prime 3, they still do them I think Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk
  9. Thanks for the replies, I'm fairly sure now it's the wire to the solenoid - thr connector is quite loose, and when I take it off, the symptoms are exactly the same. I've cleaned it up and tried to secure it a little better and it's been okay since, fingers crossed. Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk
  10. Hi everyone, just want to try to narrow down whether this is the ignition switch or starter... Occasionally I'll turn the key to start and it won't turn over. Sometimes it kicks in after a few seconds, sometimes nothing (and sometimes starts first time) Fuel pump primes at ignition on cross-over relief relay engages when turned to crank bump starts okay My thinking is the starter because of the relief relay engaging when 'cranking', but just wanted to check as changing either is not the easiest job!
  11. A couple of weeks back now, but I saw a green g60 I think, between Keighley and Bingley... Saw it again a week later on the a65 between Skipton and settle
  12. Thanks for all the suggestions. I found that the plug lead on 1 was loose last night - I put it back on properly and it improved for a bit then started doing it again. I took it off again and noticed quite a bit of corrosion inside. I've cleaned it up with a file and contact cleaner, and now it idles bang on 650 when warm, popping had gone (has just started again a little after about 10 miles), and power is smooth. I think the fact it cleared up after messing with the plug lead suggests I've found the issue - I just need to get some new leads now. Thanks again for all the help!
  13. The car has been running pretty rough lately, and I'm scrathing my head and could do with a fresh perspective - can anyone point me in the right direction as to what might be wrong to save me replacing everything? Takes a while to start from cold sometimes - strong crank, turns over and over for about 10 seconds then starts to splutter into life before finally firing up. Other times starts first time Popping on overrun once warm - does it nearly every time (quite severe) and even does it sometimes when changing up a gear Erratic idle - sometimes okay at about 600-650, sometimes goes up to about 800rpm. Cuts out when approaching junctions sometimes (I know, standard VR) Idle adaptation exceeded error on Vagcom, when checked the adaptation value is up at more than 1.2 Flat spot at about 2.5k rpm It's never been this bad in 10 years of ownership.
  14. FFS...! I've just spent the weekend stitching my battered centre console together with 3D replacement bits and a soldering iron. Wish I'd seen what you'd done with the MK4 one first - looks fantastic. A bit late now, but I solved the sticking out climatronic panel by putting the u-clips on the clima panel and mounting it behind the centre console insert - completely flush that way. edit - just realised your is an early dash, so the clima panel would probably sit differently to mine
  15. Not sure what you meant by the tube exensions, but could it be coming through the bulb hole? It's usually a tight fit, but those seals on the holders will be pretty old now.
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