The bit with Pistons in. VR6.

[Jim Bowen 1]

Is there a way to check for wear on the other parts of engine that aren't the head? My engine i've removed had 201,000miles on it, am rebuilding the head, but wondering if its worth doing anything with the pistons or the crank bit or if there are ways to check these things?

 

I don't really know what i'm looking for. If it is worn or in need of work, what are the likely things i'd need to get done?

 

---------- Post added at 3:11 PM ---------- Previous post was at 3:07 PM ----------

 

Seen this on ebay

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/151061973308?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

 

Its a 2.8 AAA Block and pistons

 

"This is for 1 x Bare Brand new Volkswagen Block / 6 x Brand New Pistons Rings and pins ./ Circlips . There is no Crankshaft or Rods"

 

Its £580. What i'm wondering is, can i fit my corrado parts to this, like the head and inlet, even the crank, so basically making it a 2.8 corrado engine. Is the price good?

 

I have no idea what it might cost to rebuild my 2.9 version. Don't mind doing the head, but thought i heard pistons etc were expensive.

[tony_ack 0]

Yep, you can check the bores to see what sort of condition the bottom end is in.

 

Lip - if there is a noticable lip then you should re-bore if you want to keep your current block, and this may mean needing oversize pistons

 

Glaze - check the bores and see how shiny they are. If there are no hone marks, then you could do with re-honing the bores. You should be able to rebuild the block with the original pistons, assuming they're not pitted.

 

Whether you need a re-hone or not, it makes sense to fit new piston rings while the engine is stripped down.

 

I've heard that 2.9 engines can ovalise bores 1 and 6, but I'm not sure how you'd check for that, or whether that would be visible.

 

It'd make sense to replace the bottom end bearings too, and possibly the oil pump if it's never been done and you're planning to do another 200000 miles.

[aide 0]

You need a dial bore indicator to check for oval cylinders, not too expensive and handy bit of kit for checking end float and suchlike.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Just drop a 24V in mate, and then all your noise and wear issues will be dealt with in one fell swoop :D

[Jim Bowen 1]

But then i have to find a decent 24v that i trust, or rebuild one, Plus all the extra wiring and stuff, think i'd rather stick with the 12v for now, has been decent enough for the last 7yrs

[Jim 2]

Plus if you're like me there's a certain determination to keep the 12 valve VR6 for originality, etc. I appreciate the 24V is a better engine in just about every way - but I feel an affinity for, and a draw towards keeping the engine relatively original. Even if it will cost more in the long term.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Then stop whinging about noises and accept it for what it is ;)

[Jim Bowen 1]

Am sure its not meant to be as noisy as it is, got a new noise now as well when i start it, more knocky, like knocking two bits of hardwood together, but it goes away.

 

Am sure my old engine sounded ok from 130,000miles to 194,000miles

[Kevin Bacon 5]

You mean knocking oak onto mahogany or pine onto cedar? If it's a walnut onto birch noise, get a new engine mate!

 

Well, the VR6 has a repetoire of noises to call upon. Piston slap, small end knock, oil pump whine, injector tick, worn chain noise and cam / tappet noise.

 

None of them are serious. More of an irritation than a significant problem. At 200K, I'd be inclinded to replacing it with a younger one anyway, or rebuilding.

 

At 200K

[Jim Bowen 1]

You mean knocking oak onto mahogany or pine onto cedar? If it's a walnut onto birch noise, get a new engine mate!

 

 

 

Should've been called a Corrado TreeR6.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Wood is under rated as a diagnostic tool!

[Vw.bones 10]

Always found using wood a great tool .. Especially in the mornings 😜😜😜😜😜😜

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Aye! Why is wood woodier than normal in the mornings??!