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Byrd

New Cv's Still knocking- VR6

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I have recently replaced my inner and outer CV''s as well as the two engine mounts and gearbox mount, had my alignment done and still the Cv's clucking when I get mid to full lock turning right. So replaced inner CV's again and sent the others back- Noise still there..............? Has anyone else experienced this? Best thing could have done was replace the mounts- WHAT A DIFFERENCE- 10 years off the car!!! Shock mounts are due to be replaced, dont know if this could have anything to do with it? Also, replaced CV's with Golf Mk 3 Vr ones................YOur answers would be much appreciated!!! Jason

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It could be the bearing in the top suspension mounts that are the prob. When mine were going on full lock i used to get a noise from them.

 

YOu are not the first person to have said this- Will replace bearings and mounts and let you know..........On my way to having redone just about everything on the front suspension- Never ending!!! But then parking up today and seeing her from a storey up- what a tight, compact little package full of vr6....YOu gotta love it! Thanks for suggestion mate!

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Am also having the same problem having replaced both cv's AND top mounts. Its a pain in the ass. I have a 16v and replaced the top mounts with the meyle ones from vw heritage. Think i'm going to replace front wheel bearings because they are old and source another set of mounts. Anyone had experience with meyle HD top mounts apparently they are vr6 mounts and give a four year warranty on them? Mines lowered on a set of Ap coils so i'm guessing I won't need the vr6 top plates everyone says you need if you convert them??

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VR6 mounts are different to early mounts. You ideally need to match the top mount to whatever top plate is on your coilovers. I had problems when I tried to mix and match early and late.

 

If the nut on top of the top mounts is over tightened, it will lead to lots of creaking and clunking as the bearing won't be able to move. If you don't tighten them enough, they work loose and start knocking over bumps

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VR6 mounts are different to early mounts. You ideally need to match the top mount to whatever top plate is on your coilovers. I had problems when I tried to mix and match early and late.

 

If the nut on top of the top mounts is over tightened, it will lead to lots of creaking and clunking as the bearing won't be able to move. If you don't tighten them enough, they work loose and start knocking over bumps

 

Ok cheers, i'll get that checked out first. Another strange thing, before they were changed the mounts sat flush within the turret. Now the new ones don't, however its not enough of a gap as ive seen in the 'dead top mounts' thread.....

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I'm not sure what to make of top mounts sitting flush or not flush to be honest! On mine I've had to use early top mounts to match the early spring plates on the H & R springs, and they push through the turret and the top plate sits pretty high. They're new mounts though and seem fine and stable. The car handles fine too.

 

When I used the late top mounts/bearings with the early spring top plate, one pushed through and the other didn't, which wasn't good.

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its easy to check top mount bearings, whilst stationary with engine running {for PAS} just turn left and right full lock , if its the bearings then you will know as they couldn't care less weather you are moving forward or backward, may help to have a person stand by the top mounts/suspension at the time listening out, if it only clunks when your on the move then report back...

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Nah its does it stationary and on the move, albeit not as bad on the move. Can't believe a set a meyle top mounts have lasted less than 600 miles.....:censored:

Cheers for the help guys

 

---------- Post added at 10:47 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:45 AM ----------

 

Bryd, Have you had much luck??

 

---------- Post added at 10:48 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:47 AM ----------

 

Bryd, Have you had much luck??

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Have you got the nuts in the correct order, i had a clicking/clunking noise as i turned left to right and i had got a nut in the wrong place so was catching on the rubber top mount (which has bits of metal in it)

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I'm not sure to be honest. Im going to get the whole lot taken off and looked at, then replace whatever is necessary. I'll report back after its all done....

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HAd my top mounts replaced and the clunk has gone............The tops of the mounts seem to be sitting closer to the engine bay- each one has shifted in by 10mm, gap looks good but have noticed that my splitter catches alot more- ride height looks exactly the same, but when hitting gentle bumps at say 50mph, the front splitter kisses the road, wheras before it never did....?/? Anyone had this happen....also replaced the ball joints.:scratch:

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