Dollyman 10 Posted September 2, 2013 Hi, I suspect I have a seized rear brake piston (grinding sound and loads of brake dust on rear wheel). My first time with this sort of issue. Anyone have any tips or pointers on how to approach or what to watch out for? Thanks Jeff Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VAG-hag 0 Posted September 2, 2013 i have a pair avaialable if you are wanting to swap them over? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hatton VR6 0 Posted September 2, 2013 Hi, Jack suspect corner and try rotating the wheel with the handbrake off and see how the wheel rotates. Callipers are readily available. When you come to disconnect the brake fluid pipe clamp it with a hose clamp so you do not loose any fluid from the master cylinder then you should only have to bleed this corner. When I had to do this on my old 1.8 it was the same procedure as in the mk 2 golf Haynes guide for the GTI. Not sure if this changed on the 2.0 versions I will have to this on my VR and looks a similar setup, which is on a sorn at the moment. Nice collection of cars, always wanted a GT6! but I can see Mrs VR6 now with the divorce papers if I acquire one! I did briefly have a dolly sprint in the 80s. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fonzooorooo 10 Posted September 5, 2013 If you're lucky, it can be a handbrake cable - not so likely at this time of year, (they tend to make themselves known in winter as the water gets into them and freezes) but certainly not impossible! Equally, if you've got the callipers with the external lever, that assembly can seize... As above though - realistically psyche up for a pair of callipers. They're not hard to change, but I'd strongly recommend the use of a proper brake pipe spanner if it all looks like it's been there a fair while! When they're on, bleed using 2 man technique with the engine running. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dollyman 10 Posted September 18, 2013 Made progress last weekend. Callipers etc off. Inner pad completely worn, outer maybe some 3 mm left. Bottom slider bolt on carrier seized solid, top one moves fine. So, new carrier obtained, will probably get a new calliper. Can someone advise how the hub cap comes off as I'll be changing the disc too. Cheers Jeff Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fonzooorooo 10 Posted September 18, 2013 same as on the drums aren't they? tap "bodging" screwdriver in (down between the flare on the hubcap and the edge of the disc)at a few places round the edge and it'll start to loosen... It'll then either wiggle out or need a bit of levering round the edge depending on how tight it is. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dox 23 Posted September 18, 2013 The bearing dust cap is a push fit, use a large flat blade screwdriver and a light tap with a hammer to push it off. Use the screwdriver blade against the rib embossed around the cap, with the screwdriver at 12 o'clock tap the cap, rotate the disk 90 degrees, tap the cap again, rotate 90 degrees etc as you go so as not to damage the cap. The bearing races are a press fit into the disk, if you're fitting new disks then its probably the best time to renew the bearings too - the races can be drifted out once all the grease is removed to discover 3 hollows to allow for removal. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dollyman 10 Posted September 18, 2013 Thanks both. Bearings ordered Onwards and upwards, as they say!! Cheers Jeff Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dollyman 10 Posted September 29, 2013 Well abject failure on almost every level really:( Firstly, how does the brake hose unscrew from the caliper? The nut just seems to rotate with the hose. Secondly, how does the handbrake detach from the caliper? Finally, I cannot get anywhere with the carrier bolts. Irwins just seem to roll off. This is really beginning to p*** me off Jeff Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fonzooorooo 10 Posted September 29, 2013 [ATTACH=CONFIG]75834[/ATTACH] the hose looks like that... so yes, the nut is part of the hose and rotates with it. I crack the hose loose, then remove the calliper and spin it off the end of the hose. (the rotating union is on the "car end" of the flexi hose - best left alone till you need to change the flexi!) Handbrake cable: You should be able to pull (or lever with a screwdriver or similar) the lever enough to detach the cable from the lever, then pull the cable outer clear of its housing (likely to be rusted in, so a mole wrench round it and a back and forth unscrewing motion to release it) Aren't the carrier bolts allen head? Hammering a hex bit in before trying to turn it tends to give me the best success rate. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dollyman 10 Posted October 5, 2013 Yay!! Success. Callipers disconnected, carriers off with judicious use of wheelbrace and Irwins - now to get the old bolt out of the Irwin socket:) Next step - get the discs off. Any tips on removing the cotter pins/ discs? Cheers Jeff Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fonzooorooo 10 Posted October 5, 2013 excellent! cotters are a pliers job - bend the ends together and as straight as you can, then either needle noses through the "loop", or small screwdriver/punch/whatever (which you can give a tap with a hammer if it's tight!) ... then remove castle washer and the big nut (shouldn't be tight) then the washer, and the disc should come off, bearings and all. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dollyman 10 Posted October 8, 2013 Hey Fonz.... Many many thanks for all your help - discs now off without any further dramas :cheers: Was all set to start fitting the new one when I realised that it didn't have the ABS sensor rings - doh! Even though they would have presumably have fitted and the ABS has never worked since I've had the car, I thought it best to at least put the right discs on, so new ones awaited. Cheers Jeff Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dollyman 10 Posted November 6, 2013 Final stage - phew Just got the new calliper and pads to do.(Dics, bearings, carrier all fitted) Am I correct in that the pads just slip onto the carrier? Is there anything I need to look out for when fitting the pads? Many thanks Jeff Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seanl82 23 Posted November 6, 2013 Just make sure the mating surfaces are free from rust and brake dust with a wire brush, and thats it, as you say they just sit onto the carrier. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
delfinis38 1 Posted November 6, 2013 Just make sure the mating surfaces are free from rust and brake dust with a wire brush, and thats it, as you say they just sit onto the carrier. just put a bit of copper slip on metal to metal surfaces.... not on the friction face. :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dollyman 10 Posted November 11, 2013 Cheers. All back together , however, having tested the brake (both foot and hand) there doesn't appear to be any action on the disc! Brake fluid does come out of the loosened bleed nipple when the footbrake is applied. I have also put the handbrake on and off abiout 10 times. Is there anything I need to re-check or adjust? Thanks Jeff Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fonzooorooo 10 Posted November 11, 2013 run the engine when you bleed. (don't ask me why it makes a difference, but it certainly seems to!) After that, it should just be a few applications of the footbrake to get the piston out to it's operating range. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
