oil warning lights and beeping

[Kempy 0]

Afternoon

 

I recently changed the clocks on my valver as mine had started doing odd stuff like mph being wrong. I've borrowed a set and now the oil warning light and beep comes on after I drive it a bit, not on idle. I just done an oil change today after the beeping started yesterday. But it still beeps, with the old clocks it never bleeped or had a warning light on for oil. If the pressure was bad before when I had the original clocks would the car not just given up? I was driving it pretty hard and if there was a oil pressure issue I'd thought something might of gone?! What do you think I should do next?

 

[video=youtube_share;0lok2C3aAkI]

 

 

Thanks

Edited November 4, 2013 by Kempy

[VR6 Gar 10]

I had a mk1 golf that did this.

It started as I drove away from buying it. Was fine on the test drive then as I started the car to drive off it started to beep and flash which we assumed was the sender. After about 30 minutes it stopped.

Changed the oil pump and sender and it still did it, sometimes for ages, sometimes only a short time. Put it down to the clocks being buggered but I never solved it as the car got written off before I did.

 

Seems like too much of a coincidence that it has only just started doing it after the clock change. Try another known working set if you can first.

[Kempy 0]

I cant tell know what worked and what didnt on my old clocks. the beeping is pressure? as it can't be temp as its cold when it comes on.

[st4stokie 10]

What year is your valver I have got some early clocks you can have if you want them? Collect from stoke if you do

[Kempy 0]

thanks but Im in south wales

 

Its a 92' early interior crossover

 

It think its got g60 clocks but Im not sure whats standard for my car

[davidwort 0]

The warning switch for low oil pressure at 2,500 rpm may be shot, but the idle one ok, cant remember which is which but if you unscrew them the bar rating is stamped on them, the switches earth through the block so if you pull the connector on one the buzzer should sound, conversely, shorting the feed to the block acts like a working switch and the buzzer should stop. If not then there's a fault in the wiring loom or clocks.

[Kempy 0]

thanks again, I'm going to borrow a pressure gauge this weekend to get it all confirmed, I think there might be a fault with the clocks or the high pressure sender, or at worst a new oil pump

[Kempy 0]

what should the pressure be on fast idle?

[davidwort 0]

Hot oil, I think the switch minimum is around 1.3 bar

[Kempy 0]

Ive put my old clocks back in and the buzz came back on high idle and thats with new vag white 1.8 bar switch.

 

I need the black/blue/brown 1.2bar one then?

[Kempy 0]

? Oil pump easy to replace on a valver? I'd assume that's another 4 litres of oil to?

[Kempy 0]

replaced both sensors now and its still buzz's on high idle

[Kempy 0]

The warning switch for low oil pressure at 2,500 rpm may be shot, but the idle one ok, cant remember which is which but if you unscrew them the bar rating is stamped on them, the switches earth through the block so if you pull the connector on one the buzzer should sound, conversely, shorting the feed to the block acts like a working switch and the buzzer should stop. If not then there's a fault in the wiring loom or clocks.

 

Can you go through this test a bit more?

 

I need to test the wiring, I'm going to do a mechical pressure test asap. but I really want to see what to do to test the electrical side also

[VR6 Gar 10]

Oil pump easy to replace on a valver? I'd assume that's another 4 litres of oil to?

 

No reason you couldn't drain the oil and re use it.

 

I imagine it will be just as easy to do the pump change on the 16v as it is the 8v.

Drop the sump.

2 bolts on the pump.

Pull out and replace.

Simples, at least thats how I remember it being.

 

When fitting the new pump block it with Vasaline and fill with oil from the top before bolting it up. This should guarantee you don't get an airlock on start up.

 

Don't know if the sump on the Valver blocks the O/S front wishbone bolt like they do on the VR's but it may be the perfect opportunity to replace any wishbone bushes that are getting tired whilst you have it apart.

[Kempy 0]

I think the sump is quite accessable on a valver

[davidwort 0]

Can you go through this test a bit more?

 

I need to test the wiring, I'm going to do a mechical pressure test asap. but I really want to see what to do to test the electrical side also

iirc the switches simply have a permanent 12v feed, well maybe not permanent but controlled by the clocks, as the pressure builds the switch earths this feed through to the block, I can't remember but I imagine the idle/low pressure switch has 12v fed to it at idle and the other at 2,500 revs ish, if the feed doesn't earth that's when the clocks sound the buzzer, so you need to check the wires from the sensors to the clocks aren't broken and they have voltage at the sensor at idle and 2,500

if you drop the sump just check the oil pickup pipe gauze isn't clogged too

Edited November 19, 2013 by davidwort

[Kempy 0]

Fitted a 0-5 bar vdo gauge earlier, I can't imagine I've fitted it incorrectly. It's giving a reading of over 4 bar. Can't imagine that's good

Edited November 23, 2013 by Kempy

[davidwort 0]

My 5 bar gauge maxes out at idle when cold engine

[Kempy 0]

Ok that sounds good then. It should then drop when warm? What's your reading when warm

[davidwort 0]

Ok that sounds good then. It should then drop when warm? What's your reading when warm

 

It'll drop to a couple of bar or less when warmed up, should rapidly rise as you touch the throttle though

[Kempy 0]

Thanks. I'm gonna run the car for a bit soon, so how I get on. I think the alarm is sounding due to a short in the wire somewhere.

[Kempy 0]

done the readings now on a warm engine, the idle pressure was just under 2.5 bar and on 2k revs 3.5 bar.. all this time the buzzer was sounding even though there switches weren't wired up. I fitted a new dash loom but I will check this if its all ok. after this I'm only left thinking the wires to the pressure switches are knackered?

[davidwort 0]

The buzzer will sound if the switches aren't earthing, touch them both to earth/block directly (wires that is) and buzzer should stop, unless you have a break in the wiring, but like I said you can check that by seeing if you have voltage at the wires

[Kempy 0]

thanks again, I'm not sure why my heads not on this pretty basic task, I'm sure I'll locate the dodgy wire today. I'm happy with the oil pressure though.

[Kempy 0]

All sorted touching wood..