Idle Problem with VR6, UPDATE: VAGCOM

[Jim Bowen 1]

Been going on a while now, got a bit worst this morning.

 

For a while when out driving i stop at a junction and the idle feels a little low, also notice a pop from exhaust if i give it a blip, (Which i never used to get)

 

Got home last night after driving for over an hour and the idle was high, like when you first start the car in the morning, sat for a while and it didn't change so just switched it off (thinking at the time, i bet it mucks about in the morning)

 

This morning it wouldn't idle, revs would just drop and engine would stall. Sorted it by holding the revs at about 2000rpm for a few minutes, got to work, but the drive in seemed a little rough at times.

 

As the cars done 220,000miles am thinking some of the auxiliary bits might need cleaning etc. Is there much i do?

Edited March 17, 2014 by Jim Bowen

[fla 9]

might need to have basic settings done again.

[Jim Bowen 1]

What do you mean?

[timmaaah 0]

I think fla means this ecu reset thingy here:

 

http://wiki.the-corrado.net/vr6_ecu_reset_procedure.html

[Jim Bowen 1]

Do i need vagcom to do that, 2nd part sounds a bit vagcommy to me.

 

I did buy the vcds lite thing and an ebay lead but never really got it working properly.

[Jim Bowen 1]

Had a search and the ISV kept coming up, i've never cleaned or done anything with that so will try it.

[Leonard 0]

Had a search and the ISV kept coming up, i've never cleaned or done anything with that so will try it.

 

Does sound a bit like ISV, get some carb cleaner on it and see if that helps

[Jim Bowen 1]

Have got an ultra sonic cleaner, might run it through that, also quite certain i have a spare isv somewhere

[Jim Bowen 1]

Just got it off and cleaned it. Not put it back on yet though

 

notice I get quite a bit of oil in the Inlet elbow where it meets throttle body. Is that normal?

 

Had really bad misfires on the way home. Almost like coil pack issue again.

Cleared up by the time I got home but notice the exhaust popping and banging alot more and idle is high but steady once warm.

 

wondering if I have a few issues here.

[timmaaah 0]

I had awful idle probs for a while - a damn good clean of the isv, a new set of ht leads and plugs and a replacement throttle position sensor seemed to sort it. I also replaced all three of the sensors on the crack pipe.

 

Oh yeah, I've also replaced the pcv thingy at some point as the rubber had cracked. I got mine from Ford as it was cheaper :)

[Jim Bowen 1]

Fitted the isv back on and did ecu reset but not the vagcon bit. Been for a drive and still got a high idle about 900rpm when warm. Will see in the morning what a cold start does.

 

Will vagcom show up a dodgy throttle position sensor.

[fla 9]

Vagcom will align the throttle position sensor. Did you lube the isv before refitting? Just needs a light lube. I usually clean the inlet pipe every other service.

[fla 9]

Also check for vacuum leaks in the intake loop eg the corrugations on the inlet pipe

[Jim Bowen 1]

Cleaned the isv, have removed and bypassed the black isv damper box thing, made no difference.

Had a lot of pipes off and checked for leaks but can't find any, replaced the inlet elbow and the pcv, still the same.

Runs lovely when warm, idea is much more steady than before but high, about 900rpm. Fixed the leaky exhaust as well.

 

I wondered if it was to do with the battery, tried jump leads from another car and still had the same problem, just won't hold idle. Also feels abit lurchy when cruising at a steady revs'

 

Could it be throttle position sensor? (am hoping its not head gasket again)

 

Am thinking of buying the proper Rosstech vagcom today.

[Jim Bowen 1]

Now got vagcom, am outside with car now.

 

Got the fault: Idling Speed Stabilization Valve (N71)

31-00 - Open or Short to Ground.

 

Wiring looks ok, isn't very much of it tbh, from the valve to the multiplug big circle connector of engine loom to car loom

 

Could it be a dead valve? About to find the spare.

[Jim Bowen 1]

Fitted the spare isv and hasn't made any difference.

 

Will get vagcom out again tomorrow night. Ran out of time this evening.

[fla 9]

you can pulse it directly through VAGCOM, cant remember which block it is though you'll have to ahve a play. Also check you're getting power to the ISV with a multimeter

[Jim Bowen 1]

Didn't think to check that. Cheers. Will put it on my list for when I get home tomorrow.

[Roger Blassberg 0]

I went through all this a couple of years ago. Eventually I had the fuel injectors professionally cleaned and that made a huge improvement in stability of the idle (and to the fuel consumption generally). Also check the wiring to the injectors is all ok; it runs in a conduit under the inlet manifold and gets very hot and brittle. Also undo, remove, clean pins, re-seat the multi pin round connector near to the coilpack. This deals with ISV, injector energisation and so on.

 

Good luck

 

RB

[Jim Bowen 1]

Did vagcom again tonight and the isv came up again. Said intermittent this time. Unless I didn't notice that before.

 

Checked wiring and can't find anything wrong. Checked the multiplug and seemed good.

 

Did I just check the plug on the isv with a multi meter while the engine is running.

[fla 9]

if you can, remove the isv and pulse 12v on to it directly - it should buzz and gyrate slightly in your hand. I'm just trying to rule out the possibility that both the isvs are dud. Also, did you spray the flap before refitting? When you pulse it make sure the flap opens fully and closes fully (with a small gap on the closing side of the flap)

[Jim Bowen 1]

Will try the pulse on the other one, i did do it on the previous isv, it did seem to work, got a clunk noise and could feel it move.

[Jim Bowen 1]

Latest code.

 

1 Fault Found:

00533 - Idle Speed Regulation

10-00 - Adaptation Limit Not Reached

Readiness: N/A

 

Have tried a different ISV, MAF and inlet elbow+the pcv stuff.

 

Can't find any wiring damage anywhere.

 

Was playing with vagcom, noticed throttle angle was 12.1, thought i'd read it should be minimum 14degrees. Wedged the throttle open and it idled quite high, was already 800rpm.

 

Seems ok when warm, its just cold, its won't turn over without foot on throttle and its quite lumpy for a few minutes. Could it be related to coilpack?

[Jim Bowen 1]

Been through the basic settings thing, (now i have vagcom)

 

Idle was 800rpm, temp was good. But the timing BTDC, in the guide it says should be between 6-8, mine was 0.3 to 3 and jumping about between those figures a lot.

 

Going to give it a service including fuel filter next, also going to check inlet manifold bolts and throttle body for any leaks etc.

 

Could it be related to the timing chains?

[Jim Bowen 1]

Weird. Still got this problem after a large rebuild.

 

Nothing has come up in latest vcds scans. But only driven it about 100 metres so far. But had it up to temp till fans kicked in multiple times.

 

-won't idle when cold unless holding revs up for 30secs ish.

-coolant temp on dash still reads low. Fans kick in though.

-fans run on after turning engine off if hot. But aux pump doesn't run. Runs with ignition on.

 

Might buy a new isv. Could be my two are both dodgy. Although both worked when hooked up to a 12v supply.

 

-might just buy brand new blue and yellow coolant sensors. Got loads and sure some were new but can't be sure which. Is there a way to test them?

 

Is it worth changing rad temp sensor and maybe lambda?