Cylinder Head Removal Tips

[Scott 0]

Hello All!

 

Right am in the process of getting the relevant parts together to do a full cylinder head overhaul and some general engine cleaning. Am also hoping to replace the suspension and brakes at same time but thats for another day :roll:

 

I am after some tips for removing the cylinder head on a VR6 - I have done more than a few before but all have involved four pot engines (8 / 16V) therefore feel the VR6 is going to a little more complicated..

 

Anyone done this before and would like to comment on issues such as removal / timing / etc?

 

Am basically trying to research as much as possible!

 

Cheers

 

Scott

[Scott 0]

Come on guys.... you can do better than that!!! :oops:

[Kevin Bacon 5]

I've not timed up a VR before so can't advise on that, PhatVR6 is your man for that, but as for removal. You'll need to get yourself a set of spline tools. I *think* the head bolts are 14mm jobs.

 

Just do as you would do with a 4 cyl engine with removal.

 

I take it you're replacing all the chains etc too? I would if I were you if you hadn't considered it.

 

I heartily recommend you use 021 109 509E as the top pad and tension it with 021 109 507B :lol:

 

I would also get the VW tool for timing the cams. It's a bit of plastic that holds the cams still whilst setting the timing.

 

Anything else I'm sure the other guys can fill you in on.

[Scott 0]

Didnt know about the timing tool from VW - anyone got a part number? - Would prove very useful!

 

Nah I am not replacing the chains - too much hassle to drop the gearbox but I will be checking the upper tensioners and will replace if needed.

 

Spline tools I have :)

 

Cheers

 

Scott

[Robbo149 0]

Kev, I tried to get the newer upper tensioner & bolt as you recommended, but my local stealer said they were on back-order so would take about 10 days. Had to get the original ones as I need them for the weekend (twice as expensive too!). I also tried to get the camshaft alignment tool, but the parts guy said they didn't supply tools, I'd have to go to Sykes-Pickavant or Snapon for it!

 

Cheers,

Robbo

[Scott 0]

Whats this to do with cylinder head removal mate? :roll: - keep it on topic eh?

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Make sure you use a VAG headgasket, or as Phat suggested a Victor Reintz one.

 

Not sure if you're going skimmed or not but make sure they don't take too much off if you do!

 

A valve seat recut and valve grind is recommended too. Some people just do lapping but a lot of VR seats pit quite badly, so a recut should be factored in too. A 3 angle cut if poss as you get a better seal flow characteristics.

[Scott 0]

Kev:

 

I am buying the genuine VW Head Gasket kit as I dont really want to have to do this job more than once!!

 

I am having my engineering shop do this:

 

Full Strip down and rebuild including new valve guides, seals, valve seat re cut and valve grind with a skim just to take off what is necesary - no more no less!, and new hydraulics.

 

I will ask him about doing a 3 angle cut too depends on how much it costs...

 

But so far he estimates £250 all in which aint bad I reckon! - plus £80 ish for head gasket kit.... so I reckon £400 all in with fresh fluids / filters / etc will sort it. Thats providing I dont find any problems with bores / timing chains! :cry:

 

Do I need to take it easy after assembling do you think with a cylinder head rebuild? - Obviously when doing a bottom end its essential.... but I dont drive my VR6 much so its going to be hard to resist :twisted:

 

Cheers

 

Scott.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Yeah that seems a good price. A 3 angle cut isn't essential, but it's a 'nice to have' if he can do it.

 

I just hope your upper tensioner isn't shredded otherwise the box will have to come off :cry:

 

My bores still had the factory honing on them and the pistons were in excellent shape, so the all clear was given and on went the head. Hope yours are the same.

 

Heads don't really need bedding in tbh, they are under constant stress anyway. If you were fitting new cams then yeah, you need to follow a running-in procedure but just a boggo rebuild with existing cams, drive it as you normally would. I did!

 

K

[PhatVR6 0]

Whip off the inlet manifold and . and all the spark plugs and the coil pack.

 

unbolt the down pipe (either crack the manifolds off the head, or split it at the manifold.downpipes, your choice)

 

disconnect the fuel lines, the wiring plug and the coolant run on pump and the water hose on the back of the head.

 

Stick a 27mm socket on the crank pulley and turn it unitl the timing amrk lines up, pull the bung out of the gearbox and check that the clutch timing mark is lined up too, and even stick something in #1 cylinder to make sure the piston is definitely at the top.

 

once you've confirmed the crank is timed up, whip off the cam cover and look at the slots in the left hand ends of the cams to see if they are totally horizontal to the top of the head (they should be!.

 

Whip off the upper tensioner bolt, and the upper timing cover.

 

crack off one of the camshaft sprocket bolts (15mm head, very f*cking tight!) and slip the chain off 9tie it out of the way to stop it falling in the engine)

 

now you can crack the head bolts off in sequence and lift it off. with the lower manifold and fuel rail and injectors (and loom) on it (unless yo take them off first, up to you really, just aother agsket to replace if you do take it off).

 

then cry when you realise your upper tensioner blade is f*cked and yo're going to have to take the box off anyway :cry: :roll:

[Scott 0]

lol thanks Phat - you make it sound easy *:)

 

I have been told I wont need to remove camshaft sprocket bolts as like you say they are a pain - It has been mentioned I can prise of the timing chain by lifting the cams out at a tilted angle and then tie wrapping the chain up out of harms way...

 

To be honest with you if I do find that I will have to replace tenisoners I will finish the head job off and get my local VW specialist to replace the clutch then politely mention I would like the chains and tensioners done at same.... after all I wont need to remove the head again to do the chains and tensioners eh? - a clutch change with new chains is going to be ALOT cheaper than getting them to do the full job...

 

Having said that I might even have a go at the gearbox myself if needs doing... :shock: - it is a heavy bugger though!! :D

 

Scott

[PhatVR6 0]

it is easy, there is nothing to be scared out in the VR6 engine.

 

yes, you can get the cams off and lsip the chains off that way, but there is a technique to it, and if you get it wrong you'll scrathc the bearing surfaces on the cam. then again, the 15mm bolts are an utter swine to get out, so you may have no choice.

 

Get the VR6 bible, the Peter Russek manual, it's essential.

[Scott 0]

Already got the Peter Russek manual mate - just not read it properly yet!

 

Everyone keeps telling me its easy.... if it is then why do garages charge the earth for the job? :-P

 

It does look as though if push comes to shove then I will drop the gearbox .... if I have to do that then I am doing the whole lot... no buts.

 

I dont really have too rush either as have a second car can use.

 

Cheers mate... will post up my progress when I start!

 

Scott.

[PhatVR6 0]

It's the dreaded 40% VR6 tax that goes on everything......

[Scott 0]

:lol: :lol:

 

Thats the most sensible suggestion put forward so far when questioned 8)

[Robbo149 0]

Whats this to do with cylinder head removal mate? :roll: - keep it on topic eh?

 

Just trying to be helpful mate, you asked about the camshaft alignment tool. Apologies for the additional waffle :oops:

 

Cheers,

Robbo

[PhatVR6 0]

I have a cam alignment tool, I was going to get some made, but I can't find anyone who can cut plastic cheaply and quickly.

[PhatVR6 0]

I forgot to mention the belt tensioner.....you need to slacked that off with an m8 bolt and remove that too.

[Scott 0]

Whats this to do with cylinder head removal mate? :roll: - keep it on topic eh?

 

Just trying to be helpful mate, you asked about the camshaft alignment tool. Apologies for the additional waffle :oops:

 

Cheers,

Robbo

 

Pulling your chuffer mate so dont worry about it :wink:

[Scott 0]

I have a cam alignment tool, I was going to get some made, but I can't find anyone who can cut plastic cheaply and quickly.

 

Trouble is the alignment tool is only ever good if replacing the chains without upsetting the cams?

 

My cams will need to come out.... so not sure I need it?

[PhatVR6 0]

yes, you need it for when you put the cams back in.

[Scott 0]

Best see if I can beg / borrow / steal / etc one then.... :lol:

 

Any ideas where too look?

[PhatVR6 0]

I found mine on eBay (surprise surprise). it's a genuine VAG one.

 

you can just use 2 spanners and they ahve the same effect. it's just something to keep the cams still whislt you put the chain on, but if you're not taking off the cma sprockets in the forst place you'll never be able to use it anyway.

[Scott 0]

lol - then will just lock them with something then....

 

Nah I aint taking the sprockets off - will be careful :-P

[PhatVR6 0]

I snapped my vice in half trying to take one of those cam sprocket bolts off! had to buy 2 new sprockets, cam trigger and 2 bolts.....£60 :|