sexybourbon 0 Posted June 24, 2014 Just a quick question regarding uprated valve springs for 268 cams Basically im wanting to know weather changing the springs is advisable ? Engine is on 115,000 and will hopefully have a rebuilt head on before the cams go in Stealth will be mapping the car after all this work is done and im hoping to maybe rise the rev limiter to 7500 instead of the 7200 its at now , standard as far as im aware Now here is the part that is a bit embarrasing , iv looked at some valve springs by ferrea as been told by stealth but not being totally clued up on engines as iv never really had to mess with them and never tuned one is will i need twelve as its a twelve valve ? Or will i need 24 ? For inlet and exhaust , dumb ass question but i just dont know Also is it really needed or best for piece of mind , id maybe keep the rev limiter in place if its not going to make much power over and past 7200 rpm Done some reading on the net but would like some advice of here from the gurus who are in the know Also any other makes other than ferrea than would be an option as as always everything is on a reasonable budget , although i will pay up if it means piece of mind Any advice would be great Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
swiftkid 1 Posted June 24, 2014 It's a total of 12, 2 valves per cylinder. I think you can raise the limiter slightly without changing the valve springs but not sure how far you can go. I wouldn't like to test it, a snapped valve will ruin all your hard work. I'll be watching this though, never been something I've thought of doing so interested to hear about experiences and gains Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sexybourbon 0 Posted June 24, 2014 Right ok so iv been on bartek tuning and they do an uprated valve and washer does anybody know if thats ok to run , also now iv read on the bartek website that its advisable to change the followers aswell if thats correct ? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sexybourbon 0 Posted June 24, 2014 Also just reali ed how dumb i was earlier in saying 12 or 24 when i knew it was two valves per pot , a reminder that i am not running a v12 haha Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
swiftkid 1 Posted June 24, 2014 You could always buy 24 and put them in a 24v ;-) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sexybourbon 0 Posted June 25, 2014 Anyone help here ? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sexybourbon 0 Posted June 26, 2014 No one ? Been looking and i think im going to go for the schrick valve springs with the titanium washers and the lighter set of lifters from schrick also Is there anything else anyone can input ? Is bartek the best place to buy from or is there a good uk supplier that wont rip me off Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted June 26, 2014 Personally I wouldn't bother with uprated springs. All they do is increase the valve train load. If you were going for 8000rpm, then I might, but up to 7500, I wouldn't bother. That's the limit of the hydraulic followers anyway. Bartek are a great company. I bought my Schrick cams from them (for my R32). It's Schrick who insist on new followers if you buy their cams, otherwise they won't give you a warranty, but as your 268s are s/hand (?), again, I wouldn't bother. Schrick unfortunately are a schitt company to deal with. My R32's intake cam is defective and Schrick are taking weeks and weeks over it. I sent it back to Bartek and he's dealing with Schrick for me, but they are absolutel w@nkers basically. Decent products, but schitty attitude to retail customers and a shonky work ethic. So to summarise:- Schrick 268s - Good cams for top end, bottom end suffers, hot idle suffers. Uprated springs = No New followers = No (unless the cams are brand new) Anything else = N0 Just shove em in and get it up to Uncle Vince for mapping = Yes Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sexybourbon 0 Posted June 26, 2014 (edited) Ok thats great advice as always and i was hoping you would read my thread Would you say it is worth putting in new standard valve spring im not to bothered about cost just want piece of mind and would putting lighter lifters in there be of any benifit even if you advise that you wouldnt bother as the cams are second hand ? They are low milage i think around 30,000 k not mile Im sure i can talk to vince about these bits but i dont like hassling companys that are busy Im guessing that raising the rev limiter to 7500 would give a little more gain with them being a top end cam ? One last thing that id like to ask is everyone seems to be very scared of valve float ? But wxactly how common a problem is it , am i going to be prone to failure or is it rare to happen ? Its all new to me Edited June 26, 2014 by sexybourbon Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted June 27, 2014 Nah just stick them in mate. Save your money! I wouldn't worry about valve float. At the engine speeds it happens at, everything is moving so fast anyway it makes no odds. I don't think 7500rpm will gain you much. I would go for 7200rpm but see what's happening on the dyno. If it's making power up there, leave it to Vince to decide on where to put the limiter. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sexybourbon 0 Posted June 30, 2014 Cheers kev thanks for replying im hoing to give cince a ring sometime in the distant future to about the mapping and limiter Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dox 23 Posted June 30, 2014 What about adjustable cam sprockets, worth it or not? Most heads have been skimmed by a fair chunk to remove pitting moving the sprockets closer to the crank pulley (or in this case the intermediate shaft pulley) putting standard timing out, anyone tried them? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
