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VRTRIZZ

94 boosted Rado

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Ok so thought I might as well start writing my build thread for the Rado. I know a boosted VR6 engine isn't anything new or special these days so not sure how much interest this will generate. May as well share my experience.

 

First thing I wanted to do was get the Rado tested, just so there wasn't any hassle of getting the car through the test after the conversion. Plus means it's legal to go out and map it when I'm at that stage. She passedwith a advisory on a foosty clutch pipe. So we're good to go.

 

Not really got much done. Time isn't on my side with work, a house and a seven month old. My plan is to change the valve stem seals when head is of to put on de-comp plate and change shells at same time. Just the cam sprockets to take off and head bolts to undo then whip her off.

 

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I'm certainly interested - as a new owner and only 3 months on this site - this will be the first thread of its kind I can follow from the beginning. I have little mechanical knowledge but am on a learning curve and enjoying it!

 

Good luck with your build....

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I know a boosted VR6 engine isn't anything new or special these days

 

I beg to differ, a boosted VR6 is always special!

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I'm certainly interested - as a new owner and only 3 months on this site - this will be the first thread of its kind I can follow from the beginning. I have little mechanical knowledge but am on a learning curve and enjoying it!

 

Good luck with your build....

 

Cheers, I'm no expert by any means haha, but do enjoy it, which is most important. Am sure I'll need plenty of help.

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I beg to differ, a boosted VR6 is always special!

 

Ok sorry, I didn't mean not special, just that it's been done by many. Still absolutely choking to get it running and I've just started haha.

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When I put my decomp plate over this oil way seal on the block face, do I need to put something on the head side to seal?? Something like a fibre washer?

 

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Edited by VRTRIZZ

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Little update, done a little profile matching between the manifold and the exhaust housing, a bit anal but why not. The head has been off and valve stem seal's have been changed. Cleaned both head and block faces then put on the decomp plate and refitted and torqued down head. Next I put the cams and sprockets back in and timed it up. Gave the cam cover a quick paint and and lay it on top for now. Still waiting on a replacement chain guide as mine is Broken, then I'll get the timing cover back on.

 

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Profile matching

 

 

 

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Let the excess oil drain out

 

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Stripped the head

 

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Gave it all a good clean and inspection

 

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Spacer plate I got from Germany with multi layer gaskets

 

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Built head back up

 

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Cleaned up block face

 

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Got a bit excited and bolted on my turbo and short runner to see what kind of room I have.

 

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I don't have a lot of room between the bulkhead and snail, plus no room for compressor inlet pipe because of servo reservoir. Thought about swivelling turbo up a little but have no bonnet clearance.

 

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Waiting on exhaust parts to arrive now.

Edited by VRTRIZZ

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nice - i do wish i knew how to or had more balls to carry out engine work

 

good to see it in pictures too

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Hard to believe its been four month's since my last update! Not a lot done to be honest, considering the length of time. Been busy with the house and garden as it's the right time of year for all that jazz. Really need to pull my finger out if I want this project finished or at least on the road by the end of the year.

 

Ok a little update.

 

Changed my broken chain guide and put side cover and cam cover with new gasket back on.

 

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Fitted new big end shells. There was nothing wrong with the original ones.

 

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Machined up a couple oil return and external wastegate flanges.

 

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Edited by VRTRIZZ

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Bought 3 meter length's of 3 inch stainless exhaust pipe from eBay. Also orderd two 90 bends, one a tight, and six 45 bends. I found that was maybe a bit excessive. Also bought 3" v-clamps and flanges, a joiner and clamp, and a 4" long flexible.

 

I then started mocking and tacking up the downpipe.

 

 

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Fabricated together the backbox using a 5" silencer and some of the 3" straight pipe.

 

 

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Mocked up and tacked the rear section.

 

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Things really start to tighten up when using 3" stuff 😁

 

 

 

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Some great work going on here. Wish I had the skill/tools to undertake such a project.

 

When clearing the rear beam you only need a fingers width between pipe and exhaust heat shield. Too big a gap and the beam will knock once it's back on the ground..... well it does on mine and I'm only running 2.5 inch system!

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Some great work going on here. Wish I had the skill/tools to undertake such a project.

 

When clearing the rear beam you only need a fingers width between pipe and exhaust heat shield. Too big a gap and the beam will knock once it's back on the ground..... well it does on mine and I'm only running 2.5 inch system!

Cheers. Yeah its not so bad as it goes over right at the pivot point of the rear beam. I've tried my best to keep it away. Is your car lowered?

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Yeah mines about 60mm lowered, maybe a touch more. I realigned mine the other day, and to be fair I'm not sure I could fit a 3 inch pipe through there!

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Cheers. Yeah its not so bad as it goes over right at the pivot point of the rear beam. I've tried my best to keep it away. Is your car lowered?

 

my VR is lowered, such that there is a 2 finger gap between top of tire & the wheel arch

 

it has a 2.5" longlife stainless & Paul who fitted it said it was a challenge due to the ride height - he did an awesome job though & ive not heard single knock from it

 

there are a few pics of how it runs over the rear beam on my build thread here if you want a look http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?44751-g0ldf1ng3r-s-VR-amp-return-of-the-valver-VR-steering-wheel-refurb/page8

 

if it helps i wouldn't mind taking you a few more

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