robrado974 1 Posted September 5, 2015 I have exactly the same problem . I don't know how to post links , but you can see it on the post I put up while back , I think it's on my members thread too . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fendervg 33 Posted September 5, 2015 Well, I'll let you know how I get on - the non-return valve appears to have been an official VAG fix on some cars, as verified by some posts on here and one i saw on a German forum, so it might do the trick. My bet is still on the injector seals though. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
robrado974 1 Posted September 5, 2015 I will be interested to find out the problem . Mine will be sorn soon and is due a big refurb . So I doubt I will get round to it for a bit . I changed the pump , filter and fpr and the problem was sorted now it's back again . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fendervg 33 Posted September 11, 2015 (edited) FYI all. This is the correct crank position sensor for the VR. Part # 021906433A. Available through Classic Parts or Heritage at 49.60 euro plus VAT. [ATTACH]82330[/ATTACH] The seal comes with it so no need to buy separately (it's NLA anyway a a single part). The CPS with black plastic cover pictured earlier in this thread is a spurious part that also fits VR6 Ford Galaxy's etc., and is not the correct one. It may be fine for later 6 cylinder engines, but not the ABV. Edited September 11, 2015 by fendervg Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fendervg 33 Posted September 13, 2015 This my new plan B. Non return valve bought on eBay and some 8mm fuel injection hose. Refurbished injectors should be here next week. [ATTACH]82342[/ATTACH] Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fendervg 33 Posted September 19, 2015 (edited) This is my new non-return valve on the fuel feed from the pump solution fitted. We'll see how it goes after a few overnight cold starts. [ATTACH]82366[/ATTACH] Edited September 19, 2015 by fendervg Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dox 23 Posted September 19, 2015 This is my new non-return valve on the fuel feed from the pump solution fitted. We'll see how it goes after a few overnight cold starts. [ATTACH]82366[/ATTACH] Did you fit the refurbed injectors too or just the non return valve? It might be an idea to check the connections at the fuel rail for leaks once fitted? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fendervg 33 Posted September 19, 2015 Haven't done the injectors yet. Got them back, but I need a good half to full day's run at it to take the intake off and fit them. The fuel rail connections are fine as I replaced both those hoses with new VAG items and clips about a year and a half ago. The refurbed injectors have new seals fitted, and were tested as not leaking. I have a full report on them from Mr Injector - only thing is that Jim on here found issue with his injector clips, so I will need to check out the condition of mine or maybe get some replacements in advance to be on the safe side. The NRV fix above will just rule out fuel seeping back down the feed pipe through the pump valve and into the tank. If the problems persist then it's likely to be the injectors. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fendervg 33 Posted September 19, 2015 Interestingly the report states that two of the old injectors were leaking before the refurbishment. I'd say any old injector that hasn't been cleaned could potentially be leaking slightly. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fendervg 33 Posted September 22, 2015 UPDATE - several days later and I haven't had a single problem starting in the morning since fitting the non-return valve. Always starts on first turn of the key now after less than a second of cranking. My only guess here is that there was indeed fuel leaking back into the tank via the feed hose and through the valve in the pump. It may be that as the pumps get older this problem manifests itself due to wear and tear which is why VW came up with the valve as a bodge fix rather than replacing the whole pump unit every time they came across this issue. I'll start looking into obtaining a replacement fuel pump anyway (another saga no doubt) as the one I have will let go eventually, although it maintains constant pressure and is not noisy at the moment, and will then take the old one apart to see what the story is. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dox 23 Posted September 22, 2015 Great news, do you have a link to the NRV please :) It could be there's not enough power going to the pump when cranking due to voltage drop in the wiring? You turn the ignition key, the pump primes and pressures up the fuel rail, you turn the key to crank and the pressure in the rail is enough to fire the engine over? I notice sometimes my car fires into life just as I give up cranking, did you notice similar? Great result anyway :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
robrado974 1 Posted September 22, 2015 Thanks for posting this . Great news that you have sorted it . I bought a second hand pump when mine was sketchy . As you know from my posts the problem has returned .maybe the return has failed on this one too . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fendervg 33 Posted September 22, 2015 @dox - I tested the voltage during the initial troubleshooting - no problems there. When running it also held pressure at a constant 3.5 bar at the injector rail, even under load. so that was fine as well. The problem was that it was losing residual pressure overnight, leading to cold start issues. My hot start issues were due to a dodgy crank position sensor and broken hall sender that was losing signal when the engine compartment heated up. Ebay link to non-return valve (8mm) http://www.ebay.ie/itm/271061850109?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649&clk_rvr_id=899628767453&rmvSB=true Other thread on here about the VW fix - http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?82988-VR6-hot-start-problem-seem-to-have-been-resolved-just-thought-I-d-post-experience Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dox 23 Posted September 22, 2015 @dox - I tested the voltage during the initial troubleshooting - no problems there. When running it also held pressure at a constant 3.5 bar at the injector rail, even under load. so that was fine as well. The problem was that it was losing residual pressure overnight, leading to cold start issues. My hot start issues were due to a dodgy crank position sensor and broken hall sender that was losing signal when the engine compartment heated up. Ebay link to non-return valve (8mm) http://www.ebay.ie/itm/271061850109?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649&clk_rvr_id=899628767453&rmvSB=true Other thread on here about the VW fix - http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?82988-VR6-hot-start-problem-seem-to-have-been-resolved-just-thought-I-d-post-experience Ordered, thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
robrado974 1 Posted September 22, 2015 I will be ordering one as well , thanks . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dox 23 Posted September 22, 2015 This os how i removed my inlet mani a few weeks ago 10mm ratchet ring spanner and hex bits, front panel stayed on Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fendervg 33 Posted September 22, 2015 Good idea - I've uses a similar trick for the gearbox filler plug before. Your way is probably much better than getting a full size ratchet in between the inlet manifold and the front slam panel. Hopefully the non-return valve fix will help others - although I don't want to raise false hopes - but it can't actually do any harm anyway. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dox 23 Posted September 22, 2015 Good idea - I've uses a similar trick for the gearbox filler plug before. Your way is probably much better than getting a full size ratchet in between the inlet manifold and the front slam panel. The advantaged is that you can move the spanner down the hex giving an infinitely adjustable "extension". Once you've cracked them off half a turn or so they turn freely, my advice is to remove them with your fingers as the hex becomes wedged against the rad etc as the bolts turn out. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim Bowen 1 Posted September 28, 2015 Can't remember where you got to with sourcing a fuel pump, but recall you having issues. Was looking at this on Eurocarparts, is it the correct one? Am thinking i might change mine. http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Volkswagen_Corrado_2.9_1995/p/car-parts/engine-parts/fuel-and-engine-management/fuel-pump/?441440540&1&ffb189c809150f55ae77f9c33770e4d205de7bdc&000148 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fendervg 33 Posted September 28, 2015 Hmm. That's the Bosch one, 4 bar is the correct pressure, but I have a funny feeling from my research that your old fuel tank sender may not work with that unit. What you have there is the swirl pot with a pump unit inside it and the hoses that connect up to the tank lid. The sender sits on the side of the pump assembly. I guess the only way to be sure is to actually order one and try it out, but the problem then is that you won't be able to return it if it turns out to be the wrong one. Maybe someone else who has bought this one can confirm if the sender can be swapped over? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
robrado974 1 Posted September 28, 2015 Yes I believe they can swopped over . So , you need a second hand later fuel pump , remove the sender from that , to the new one . VW , swopped the pumps in early 93 . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dox 23 Posted September 28, 2015 I may have a sender for the above link if you need one. I'll offer to buy your used pumps too should they be made by pierberg Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim Bowen 1 Posted September 28, 2015 Mine is 1995 car so could i use the sender from that? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
robrado974 1 Posted September 28, 2015 Yes Jim , it's late , so it should be fine . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim Bowen 1 Posted September 30, 2015 Looking about and came across this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FP-265LPH-Intank-Performance-Fuel-Pump-VW-Golf-GLS-GLX-GTI-VR6-1998-2006-/111685527239?hash=item1a00f9e6c7 is that anything anyone has tried or heard of before, its another pump that fits inside the existing housing. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites