VR6 Rotor Arm question

[fendervg 33]

While investigating my fuel system (separate thread on here) I decided to take a quick look at my distributor - not good, unfortunately the casing part where the hall sender socket is has broken away due to plastic fatigue - still seems to work, no errors when scanned, but will have to do something about it.

 

My question was - is the rotor arm glued on? It doesn't seem to want to budge at all, and I don't want to destroy it by taking a screwdriver or pliers to it?

 

For anyone that needs them, the part numbers I have found are:

Distributor arm - 021905225B

Distributor Cap - 021905207

Distributor - 021905205AE

[Jim 2]

If it's like my first 2.0 16v which I used to have many years ago pretty sure that had the original rotor arm still fitted and yes, it was glued in place. The only way to remove it was to hack saw it a bit, and crush it with pliers and pick the remaining bits off before I could replace it :(

[fendervg 33]

Suspected as much! I did however also find a VW diagram that shows a screw holding the rotor arm on - would have to rotate the engine or remove the distributor to get at it though...

[robrado974 1]

I was under the impression they snapped on . Like Jim says you have to plier them off .

[fendervg 33]

Checked mine - no screw - I'll post a pic later of the exploded parts diagram though.

[fendervg 33]

Here is the picture with the mysterious screw.

 

As an aside - is it a big deal to remove the distributor - looks like it's just two hex bolts holding it on, but do you need to line up stuff when replacing?

[robrado974 1]

Not sure on the lining up , but it's part of the timing so I would look for marks on the dizzy itself .put it back as it came out . I've got a second hand one , if no body has the answer I will check it for timing marks when I get home from work .

[Jim 2]

Yeah you stand to f@ck the timing up as I believe only the smallest amount of adjustment can affect timing quite substantially? So not sure I'd be in a hurry to remove it unless I had a timing gun for reinstallation!

[fendervg 33]

Ouch - better be careful then. I do see a red mark on the dizzy at about 11 0'Clock that is aligned with another red mark on the head, so that could be a guide mark or something...

[Wullie 1]

Before you remove the distributor make a reference mark across the distributer flange and the head where they join. This will allow you to replace the distributor exactly as it was before removal. I personally make it with a junior hacksaw as it gives clear edges to the mark.

[fendervg 33]

Have ordered a new rotor arm and cap, and have a fresh set of leads to go on - let's hope the hall sender holds up and I don't need to replace the whole thing - they're not cheap.

[robrado974 1]

It's the only part I haven't replaced on the ignition system . No they ain't cheap .

[Tigerfish 10]

Not always as simple as just marking the body either. You need to make sure the rotor is in exactly the same position too, and that the engine hasn't moved at all, other wise no marks you make will matter one iota and you will have to set it all from scratch. Which is simple enough in reality.

[fendervg 33]

As an aside, I have a spare rotor arm, part# 052905225C, which I bought by mistake - ETKA says it does most Corrados (not VR6) if anyone wants it?

[Gti_Jamo 10]

There isn't any adjustment on a vr6 distributor. Just a slot in the cam for the rotor so the worst you can do is get it 180 degrees out.