Neil L. 0 Posted January 12, 2016 Ok the battery earth point? Is that the the bracket with a hole at the top on the lnner wing just to the right of the battery? If so theres no connected wire here! Looked at at battery connectors - can only see a cut black wire on the live side - no loose wire on neg side! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seanl82 23 Posted January 12, 2016 If you remove the battery, you'll see the neg lead is bolted to a stud on the chassis leg. That's the one. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Neil L. 0 Posted January 12, 2016 Will check this when get home! Few questions - is the ecu easy to remove to inspect? Is the plastic slam strip bonded to the bottom of the windscreen - the one that has holes for the windscreen wiper splines? Thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seanl82 23 Posted January 12, 2016 ECU is a bit of a faff but do-able, the trim can be removed but does have retaining grommets along it and clips you should be able to see on the lip at the front. That is unless a previous windscreen fitter hasn't bonded it back on when replacing the screen as often happens. Just be gentle when prying it off so as not to snap it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jekel 10 Posted January 12, 2016 ECU is a bit of a faff but do-able, the trim can be removed but does have retaining grommets along it and clips you should be able to see on the lip at the front. That is unless a previous windscreen fitter hasn't bonded it back on when replacing the screen as often happens. Just be gentle when prying it off so as not to snap it. Mines got the aftermarket cover panel thing, type that covers the whole scuttle panel thing , but with that can just lift the rubber strip off lift up and can get to ecu no bother. VW one should be easier, only covers bit of panel doesn't it? Bit fiddle first time but once get knack out in couple of minutes, one nut at front, slide out grommets, there's a certain angle, bracket first and it's out. Not describing that very well but hopefully be clear when try it. Most importantly don't force the ecu multiplug, there's a large plastic clip you pull towards front, might be stiff if never been off and dirty, bit of WD40 maybe, until clip all way forward it ain't coming off Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Neil L. 0 Posted January 12, 2016 Will give this a try when its dry - seen the 1 screw there! Want to clean the area of leaves etc aswell as inspect ecu Plenty to test then - now need some dry weather! Thanks again! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jekel 10 Posted January 12, 2016 Has it been outside all the time? I'd deffo be checking ECU plug, the standard VW covers not much cop there, also heard bout water running down wire on to MAF plug but sure ya've checked that. I'd deffo be changing fuel filter too given time car been standing, i'd do it every couple of years anyway, and that would give your symptons if partially blocked, but you'd prob. hear pump straining. Feel pump relay whhen running, is it getting too hot, should never be more than slightly warm, also pump connections under inspection plate in boot worth a look. I'd deffo have throttle body out and full clean with carb cleaner too. Should be slightly black at most and come straight off with spray off carbon cleaner Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Neil L. 0 Posted January 12, 2016 Done throttle bod - gleaming! ISV aswell, plugs, leads, coilpack, FPR, soaked injectors, theres fuel at the rail, checked pipes for leaks, maf working! Thats it so far..... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jekel 10 Posted January 12, 2016 Done throttle bod - gleaming! ISV aswell, plugs, leads, coilpack, FPR, soaked injectors, theres fuel at the rail, checked pipes for leaks, maf working! Thats it so far..... Funny enough I've just borrowed my mates spare MAF, and put on, on face of it both fine but suspect mines not 100%, mpg just dropped a little bit, (went from bout 20 on old engine to 28-35 on new, now dropped few mpg) and feel not 100% on partial throttle, perfect on full. I tell ya if makes difference when take it out. I'd say it was more likely Lambda, but MAF only bit has'nt been brand new in last 2 years, and lot easier to change than lambda. (I'm dead picky mind when say not 100% it's probs 95 but anything that ain't perfect mechanically annoys me) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VW_OwneR_85 2 Posted January 12, 2016 i had an idle problem ages ago and ran like crap! maf sensor plug full of water!, seeing as you have a new maf? make sure the connections are corrosion free and the wiring to it is good.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Neil L. 0 Posted January 12, 2016 Yeh looked at connections etc - ok! Engine cuts when i disconnect so seems fine! I think the lambda was done when i was running car 4+ yrs ago! Do i just disconnect it to check it out? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VW_OwneR_85 2 Posted January 12, 2016 i would still check the wiring to it as far as you can trace back for piece of mind, also have you checked for vacuum leaks , splits in the intake hose? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jekel 10 Posted January 12, 2016 Yeh looked at connections etc - ok! Engine cuts when i disconnect so seems fine! I think the lambda was done when i was running car 4+ yrs ago! Do i just disconnect it to check it out? Pretty much but really need it road tested to notice difference and is yours off road? If no improvement or runs worse lambda's malfunctioning, car will run happilly in garage without it though don't think if it doesn't cut out it's fine. Mines only 2 years w old but couple of valves guides slightly leaky on old engine, hence new engine, and I'm thinking might have got oiled/carbonned up, probs be fine with a clean but a pig to get out, might as well lob a new one in if going to trouble Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Neil L. 0 Posted January 13, 2016 As i said the cars a pig to start and you ve got to rev the fk out it to keep it going or it just dies! Then re starting it doesnt want to rev at all - and idles very rough! The car has been SORN for last 3yrs! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
g0ldf1ng3r 15 Posted January 13, 2016 As i said the cars a pig to start and you ve got to rev the fk out it to keep it going or it just dies! Then re starting it doesnt want to rev at all - and idles very rough! The car has been SORN for last 3yrs! I would say that indicates something serious is wrong, or potentially reason I say that is if you read the user manual for the VR6 it states NEVER to press the throttle pedal when starting. this is due to it causing an issue with the fuel mapping & can cause an engine to run terribly rough. I believe it is due to the live fuel mapping on the 12v VR. the same rough running can be caused by a dead, or almost dead, battery as there is not enough voltage for the ECU to retain the fuel mapping info it saves once the engine is turned off. Vince explained this to me when my VR had all its work there as my battery was pretty much kaput I have experienced the above personally when I forgot to tell the paint shop to not apply throttle when starting & to make sure it runs for a good few minutes once started, as it also doesn't like to be started & then shut off very shortly after. when I collected it back it ran log a dog for the first couple of miles. jerking & stuttering etc. I let it warm up for a mile or two & then switched it off, left for a few seconds & restarted. bingo all was good again as such there is no way you should be having to rev the fk out of it or give it gas to get it firing FYI my normal VR starting sound is a kind of chukka, chukka vroom. every time. 2 chucks & off it goes. it is a sound I have grown to very much like on my VR lol the gf's storm however would very often take maybe 6 to 10 chukka's & then fire up when it was warm but again wouldn't require any throttle input to get it going I know that doesn't really give you any technical input but hopefully it will be of use Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Neil L. 0 Posted January 13, 2016 Hard for me to believe that theres something seriously wrong with it - albeit its been off the road for 3.5 yrs! The engine was changed (£5500 cost through a warranty) at 92k - the car is now on 130k! I just think theres something unseen that i aint come across yet - i hope! I ll keep on plugging away or perhaps get it towed to the vw man to take a look! The plan is to get it running fine first then spend a bit tarting it up - doesnt look bad now tbh! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
g0ldf1ng3r 15 Posted January 13, 2016 Hard for me to believe that theres something seriously wrong with it - albeit its been off the road for 3.5 yrs! The engine was changed (£5500 cost through a warranty) at 92k - the car is now on 130k! I just think theres something unseen that i aint come across yet - i hope! I ll keep on plugging away or perhaps get it towed to the vw man to take a look! The plan is to get it running fine first then spend a bit tarting it up - doesnt look bad now tbh! sorry, my 'seriously wrong' bit was probably not the best descriptor I should have typed - the need to give throttle when starting points to a definite issue somewhere as it should not need such could just be a sensor or fuel starvation or blockage or similar have you VAG com'd it to see if it throws any error codes? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Neil L. 0 Posted January 13, 2016 Not yet - im trying to find the fault by looking at the common culprits - but being careful not to spend too much! If i cant the last thing will be to take the car in! I ll take another look this w/end - if it stays dry 😐 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
g0ldf1ng3r 15 Posted January 14, 2016 Not yet - im trying to find the fault by looking at the common culprits - but being careful not to spend too much! If i cant the last thing will be to take the car in! I ll take another look this w/end - if it stays dry good thinking it is easy to spend too much you might be lucky though & have someone from here in your area who has a VAG-com if you check here http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?4948-VAG-COM-scanning-amp-help it lists forum users with them & their area if there is no-one local try putting a new thread in the wanted section to ask if someone could help you with a scan in return for some beer tokens or a cuppa & biccies etc Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Neil L. 0 Posted January 14, 2016 Lol! My local vw bloke has it - he used to do work on the car when it was my daily! If so i ll give him a bell! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Neil L. 0 Posted January 16, 2016 Just a quick one here - how the hell do you disconnect the multi-plug off the ECU? The black cover slide off towards you, one nut on the ECU, lift it out of the bulk head BUT cannot unplug the connector! Does it just unplug straight out or am i missing something? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jekel 10 Posted January 17, 2016 Just a quick one here - how the hell do you disconnect the multi-plug off the ECU? The black cover slide off towards you, one nut on the ECU, lift it out of the bulk head BUT cannot unplug the connector! Does it just unplug straight out or am i missing something? Don't force or pull it at all! There's a locking sort of leaver right at the front, it's not obvious looking at it especially if yours is covered in dust dirt etc., it might be stiff if not been off for some time but until it's pulled out fully the connector ain't moving. When it's pulled out the connector releases itself, sort of L shaped, slides bout an inch or so towards front of car. Hard to describe, google or youtube it and a pic or video paints a thousand words. Probs loads of VW's and others got same plug. Post up when ya've found what problem was by way which sure you will, bet something simple. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jekel 10 Posted January 17, 2016 Don't force or pull it at all! There's a locking sort of leaver right at the front, it's not obvious looking at it especially if yours is covered in dust dirt etc., it might be stiff if not been off for some time but until it's pulled out fully the connector ain't moving. When it's pulled out the connector releases itself, sort of L shaped, slides bout an inch or so towards front of car. Hard to describe, google or youtube it and a pic or video paints a thousand words. Probs loads of VW's and others got same plug. Post up when ya've found what problem was by way which sure you will, bet something simple. P.S. Meant something easily fixed not spotted, like my loose Crank Sensor as engine sounds bang on, with rebuild Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Neil L. 0 Posted January 18, 2016 Cant believe these ecu connectors so awkward! Keep this thread going as i try to find the fault! Thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
