skid 1 Posted July 14, 2016 Tried to get my G60 running the other day but the car would not even turn over. The car has not been used for a couple of years and just sat idle on my drive since we moved house. Its only got 52K on it. Freshly charged battery put in. Immobiliser seams to work fine. Fuel pump primes when i turn the key. Ignition relay clicks when i turn the key. Interior lights/dash lights work Just the car does not crank when i turn the key. Got the AA out and the guy stated it was a seized starter motor! We managed to bump start the car. I changed the starter motor today for a brand new Bosch one and still the same!........nothing :( Any thoughts? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Riley 0 Posted July 15, 2016 Start with the obvious things first...Starter motor wiring. Do you have a multimeter or similar? Check for power at the starter motor when cranking. (Safety first, keep hair/jewellry etc out of the way) and make sure whoever is cranking is in neutral. Next would be ignition switch or similar...And just out of interest, have you tried putting your headlights on (Low beam) and then cranking? Neil. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Yandards 0 Posted July 15, 2016 Could be either starter motor wiring (not much to that just a big fat loom near the battery) or it could be the 'X' contact relay is not working - this cuts power to a lot of the current consumers during a start to ensure the battery is giving everything to the starter motor. Looking at the relay plate the 'X' contact one is at position 4 on the relay box. Finally as Riley said is could also be the ignition switch, the 'crank' position provides a single switching element so this could be broken too. The headlight thing won't show you if the 'X' relay is working, although the heater motor, front and rear fog lights and the windscreen wiper motor are all on the 'X' relay so should stop when cranking - easiest of those to see is the wipers to check that is working ok. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dox 23 Posted July 15, 2016 Check the main battery to gearbox bellhousing cable for cleanliness and security Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
skid 1 Posted July 15, 2016 Tried + wire off battery to solenoid switch and car starts.:) Checked the X contact relay and it works, it stops wipers, fan etc when i try to start the car. Checked the + switch wire that goes to the solenoid and it gives 12.10- 12.30 V when i turn the ignition but when connected to the solenoid nothing happens!??? Any more ideas guys? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Yandards 0 Posted July 15, 2016 (edited) Tried + wire off battery to solenoid switch and car starts.:) Checked the X contact relay and it works, it stops wipers, fan etc when i try to start the car. Checked the + switch wire that goes to the solenoid and it gives 12.10- 12.30 V when i turn the ignition but when connected to the solenoid nothing happens!??? Any more ideas guys? Ignition switch. The +12v from the battery to the solenoid is always at 12v, when you move the ignition to the start position that then provides power to the relay in the solenoid to allow that current into the starter motor. In wiring diagram speak you use terminal 50 on the ignition switch to get the motor to crank (red with a black stripe, 4mm cable) this then goes to terminal 50 on the starter motor to operate the starter relay (red with a black stripe again, 4mm cable). Plus you have checked everything else and its all working ok! Edited July 15, 2016 by Yandards Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
skid 1 Posted July 15, 2016 Just to clarify Yan, I am talking about the solenoid wire (red and black)that is giving 12v when I turn the ignition! If that is giving 12v why is it not starting the starter motor when a 12v jump wire from the battery does? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
robrado974 1 Posted July 15, 2016 This happened on my T4 . I had to start it the same way , until my ignition switch arrived . From what I've read and from what Yan is saying he's right . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
skid 1 Posted July 15, 2016 So your saying it's a complete ignition switch to be replaced? As said the car has only done 52k! Never knew it was a common problem! What price was you for a replacement? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim 2 Posted July 15, 2016 The switch itself costs very little (approx 20 quid.. Go and get one from VW dealer rather than a pattern part!) but accessing it to replace it is a royal pain in the butt :( Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
delfinis38 1 Posted July 15, 2016 Mine went at 40k... Vr switch from dealer was about 35 quid a few months ago. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Yandards 0 Posted July 16, 2016 Just to clarify Yan, I am talking about the solenoid wire (red and black)that is giving 12v when I turn the ignition! If that is giving 12v why is it not starting the starter motor when a 12v jump wire from the battery does? Is that ignition on/run or ignition start position Skid? You should only see voltage when the switch is in the start position, if its there when its in the on/run position then that confirms the switch. Even if you are getting 12v in only the crank position its impossible to see if that remains when a load is applied, that needed to get the solenoid to move. The ignition switches are a known weak point on the cars, especially the start position, although the addition of alarms and immobilisers don't help trying to diagnose the fault. To confirm the switch prior to removing it you can remove the steering column trim and take the plug off the ignition switch and use shorting wires to replicate the switch function, you will need to short terminal 30 to terminal 15 (ignition on/run) and an addition short from 30 to 50 (ignition crank). I realise this is a pain to do but it will confirm the switch without too much faffing around. Without wishing to apply an egg suck please be careful and if you can use 4mm core wire for the 30 to 50 short. You won't need to short any other terminals as they deal with 'X' contact etc and this purely a test to see if its the switch at fault. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
robrado974 1 Posted July 16, 2016 Also try wiggling the key when trying to start the car . Mine would start this way . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
skid 1 Posted July 16, 2016 Yan. It only gets 12V when its put to the start position! There is hardly any movement in the key/lock situation and i have tried put various pressure/angles, wiggles and it makes no difference to it. I will try and remove the connection and Jump the wires. Is there a guide for changing the Ignition switch? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
robrado974 1 Posted July 16, 2016 There's plenty of info on changing it . Basically when the steering cowl is removed and the steering wheel, you can see a very small screw that holds the ignition switch on . Now this screw is a pita to get too .some people have heated up screw drivers and bent the to the angle they need to remove it , others have managed with a watch makers type driver to get it out . All will become clear when you see it . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
skid 1 Posted July 16, 2016 Well big thanks to Yan and his very descriptive post, i shorted the wires in the ignition plug and the car started.:) Just need to get the ignition switch changed now! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
skid 1 Posted July 16, 2016 Managed to get a new ignition switch and got it fitted this afternoon, and starts with the key :) What a PITA that screw is to take out! Bent my screw driver into various shapes and angles to eventually get the best to work. What i did do to help put it back in was to cut tiny slots around the side of the head of the screw and used gasket pick to grab the slots and spin it back in. Made it so much easier. Big thanks to Yan and all the guys that suggested it was the switch. At least i now know to look out for this on my VR6! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
robrado974 1 Posted July 16, 2016 Glad you got it sorted . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim 2 Posted July 16, 2016 Good work :) the ignition switch is a super common, classic Corrado problem. Can't be many owners who have not had to change one! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Yandards 0 Posted July 18, 2016 Good work :) the ignition switch is a super common, classic Corrado problem. Can't be many owners who have not had to change one! Ironically I haven't! Glad to hear its all fixed Skid. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
