jekel 10 Posted November 23, 2016 Hello, anyone tried this? Sounds logical. Mines got new clutch, slave and master and did bleed ok wi pressure bleeder but still have suspicion bit of air left in it, feels ok, but not perfect, everthings brand new should be perfect, this was listed for a VR6 Corrado : "I think the biggest reason it is so hard to bleed the clutch system is because the bleeder valve is lower than the incoming fluid line. Gravity bleeding will work to clear the clutch line of air, but there will be a bubble left in the slave cylinder. What I found that works is to simply unbolt the slave cylinder and hold it such in a way that the bleeder valve is at the highest point, relative to the incoming line. Holding it this way, the air bubble in the cylinder will naturally float up and out by gravity, e.g. the slave will fill up from the bottom and push the air out the top. Since gravity is doing all the work, this is a one man job. When the air bubbles stop, close the bleeder and attach the slave to the bell housing." Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davidwort 0 Posted November 25, 2016 I've changed the slave before and air was never a problem but it might be worth a go. FWIW I've never got on with the pressure bleeders that well, they seem to create as many problems as they solve by forcing small bubbles to form, combination of approaches and revisiting the problem on different days seems to get it sorted. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dox 22 Posted November 25, 2016 You can bet your life that pressure bleeders are used on the production line when systems are completely dry before being filled. I've heard a tip from a breakdown service where you use the NSF brake nipple, a length of suitable pipe to reverse bleed the clutch using the 2 man method if there's an issue with bleeding and no pressure bleeder available. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jekel 10 Posted November 25, 2016 You can bet your life that pressure bleeders are used on the production line when systems are completely dry before being filled. I've heard a tip from a breakdown service where you use the NSF brake nipple, a length of suitable pipe to reverse bleed the clutch using the 2 man method if there's an issue with bleeding and no pressure bleeder available. That would make sense. Mine bled fine, it's working OK, pedal fine and returns fine but from feel isn't disengaging quite as far as was. If I bleed tomorrow with pressure bleeder tonight guarantee get no air out but it'll feel perfect and improved but maybe month or two later it'll feel OK but not perfect again, which suggests to me tiny bit of air sort of moving about in there. No leaks anywhere. Prefer pressure bleeder as normally it's only my wife on hand to pump pedal who'll start whinging she's bored after bout 30 secs, and is otherwise banned from the garage anyway, and don't like idea of pumping the pedal beyond it's normal movement, admittedly that doesn't really apply to clutch, more brakes. Heard lot of old mechanics say a lip will form on older master cylinders at normal full travel, push it past that when bleed and you'll normally wreck the seals on that lip. Every part of my brakes is new bar the master cylinder, just can't get a new one anywhere for love nor money, they're obsolete. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jekel 10 Posted November 28, 2016 Yep, it worked, did it on weekend. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davidwort 0 Posted November 30, 2016 ... normally it's only my wife on hand to pump pedal who'll start whinging she's bored after bout 30 secs, and is otherwise banned from the garage anyway, .... LOL been there! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
