Heavy, clunking when turning right.

[harrisvr6 0]

Hi All,

 

My baby started making a wierd noise when turning fairly sharply right, it doesn't do it going forwards, or left but going right it seems like the whole wheel or gearbox is about to fall off.

As noises go its pretty bad, its fine if going very slowly right but as soon as too much load/speed or a sharp turn on that side and its making a repetitive noise. Its the passenger side front wheel sort of area

 

I have attached a link to a quick video of it, its not very long but even pushing it that much feels a bit dodgy...

I had to go round a mini roundabout to get the vid, I went a tad too fast and it also made a grinding noise for a split second, although this is an even newer sound (I do not usually go round corners that aggressively tbh).

 

Its like a repetative, heavy, metal object banging/clunking. Its hard to explian, like something is about to give way, but it sounds like its something serious, something heavy, that I'm probably going to need. It reminds me of in The Titanic when its splitting as its going down (loud metal creaking)

 

I have just had my locking wheel nuts stripped off as I had lost the bloody locking socket. Could it be related to that, maybe damaged something in in the process of getting them off? I have had a little look behind the wheel nothing seemed obviously out of place. I have checked the wheel nuts and they are all tight, even the new ones.

 

Please help?

 

 

 

 

[delfinis38 1]

Hi All,

 

My baby started making a wierd noise when turning fairly sharply right, it doesn't do it going forwards, or left but going right it seems like the whole wheel or gearbox is about to fall off.

As noises go its pretty bad, its fine if going very slowly right but as soon as too much load/speed or a sharp turn on that side and its making a repetitive noise. Its the passenger side front wheel sort of area

 

I have attached a link to a quick video of it, its not very long but even pushing it that much feels a bit dodgy...

I had to go round a mini roundabout to get the vid, I went a tad too fast and it also made a grinding noise for a split second, although this is an even newer sound (I do not usually go round corners that aggressively tbh).

 

Its like a repetative, heavy, metal object banging/clunking. Its hard to explian, like something is about to give way, but it sounds like its something serious, something heavy, that I'm probably going to need. It reminds me of in The Titanic when its splitting as its going down (loud metal creaking)

 

I have just had my locking wheel nuts stripped off as I had lost the bloody locking socket. Could it be related to that, maybe damaged something in in the process of getting them off? I have had a little look behind the wheel nothing seemed obviously out of place. I have checked the wheel nuts and they are all tight, even the new ones.

 

Please help?

 

 

 

 

 

Not read all you post or looked at link but have you tried jacking the car up and spinning the wheels checking for play.. maybe wheel bearing.. if your loading the wheel up on lock.

[Rado87 10]

I've had similar issues on previous cars ( not corrados) and it was the CV joints and meant I needed to fit new driveshafts. Having said that the noise was more of repetitive clunk as opposed to a grind. Like Delfinis said I would jack the car up and have a good look/check for play.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[harrisvr6 0]

I jacked it up and took the wheel off today. Most parts looked pretty rusty and have had better days for sure, I couldn't really feel anything as being loose though.

 

The caliper picture, felt like it had a few MM movement (creaky) when I pulled towards the camera (but not sure if there is meant to be a bit here to allow the brakes to close...?

 

The rubber bits (in what I think is the CV joint) looked a bit old and perished but it didnt feel loose.

 

 

There was a bit of movement in the wheel when you pulled / pushed the top and bottom. There was a little movement too at the front and bank (east and west if looking at wheel face on) which I put down to the steering moving a bit.

 

When I wobbled the wheel a little (top and bottom)I noticed the top part of the suspension (in the bonnet) was moving about a bit, is it meant to do this?

I know there is the other post about identifying this but I dont know what I am looking for to be honest.

[harrisvr6 0]

Here is the pictures of the top parts of the suspension mounts in the bonnet (excuse the grubby engine bay :-/ )

 

When the guy took the locking wheel nuts off could this have damaged the set up somehow? Its weird as I have never had a problem with this until a few days after getting the wheel nuts cut off. They only took 3 off this time but when I got the first one done ages ago, I remember him hammering it onto the wheel nut and thinking "take it easy mate".

[jekel 10]

Can't hear anything on vid but what your describing sounds like inner cv joints, will clunk almost sound like jamming or ready to snap full lock when reversing especially, might get away with taking out and regreasing but probs better getting whole driveshafts new joints at both ends, then fairly easy swap.

Should'nt be any movement in wheel, sounds like wheelbearings probs shot or at least worn and that's a garage job, with a big press and heat to change.

[Jim 2]

Would agree that CV joints sounds like the place to start. Classic issue for that to occur more so when turning sharply.

[harrisvr6 0]

Hi All,

 

Thanks for your help. Here is an update.

I had already bought the rear discs (£70) pads (about £35) and bearings £60-70 and had ordered new carrier bolts (prior to having the lock nuts taken off), the carrier bolts were not in stock and put on backorder so I had been carefully driving it until these parts arrived, it was then when the sound first appeared. The noise was making me soo paranoid I asked my colleagues dad who is a mechanic (apparantly), to have a look.

2 days later he says its been fixed and I go to pick it up.

He wants £230 for what he has done. I didnt have the money on me as went straight from work and didnt have my card, so I said I'd give it to my colleague to pass on, on Monday. So I get in and go to drive home so I am thinking I want to test it on the way home, but it was rush hour so I wait till I get home and there is a quiet mini roundabout you can go round quickly, haha both ways to test it, its only still bloody doing it isn't it....

So my colleagues dad says the passenger side rear caliper had siezed which I have found to be fairly common so he replaced that (passenger side only?)and stuck the other bits on (which I was planning to do myself to save money, I am **** at mechanics but after watchign a video about 5 times fully I felt confident and was just waiting on all the new parts.)

 

So in short he has put the new parts on I was going to for free charged me 230 and i still have the same problem.

 

So then, I wantyed to have another look

I had taken both passenger side wheels off before I gave it to him and althought I dont have a clue what I am doing technically, I was looking for signs or rubbing etc around the brakes carriers etc. as the clunking had turned into a gringing and I assumed there would be scoring of some sorts maybe visable.

I couldnt see anything that I thought was out of place except for the rubber starting to crack on one of the joints and a split in the cover of the shock absorber's inner rod, (whatever its called)(?)(pics a few posts up) the earleir felt tight and I couldn't feel any play though so thouhgt Id have a few more miles yet.

 

So this bugging me, I went out this mornign and took the drivers side and passenger side front off as I'm now assuming the back bearings would be fine. Passenger side(where It originally thought it was coming from looked the same as the pics above).

 

As I had that corner up I noticed a load of grease on the inside of the drivers wheel. I take that one off and this is what I find? It doesnt take a genious to realise this isnt right.

Firstly in pics below where the screwdriver is pointing should the top rod be attached to where its pointing below (correct). As I fully suspect this is my problem now!?

 

Also that ribbed rubber cover that looks like its connected to the drive shaft, if the large jubilee clip (nearest the caliper was not there, would grease come naturally out as seen ?)

Could that rod, having snapped off, have broken the jubilee clip and caused the grease to come out? making a ****ing right old mess?

 

Or does that look like someone has greased the **** out of it to hopefully quieten the noise and hopefully let it pass for a few days.

 

What are your thoughts, could this have happened due to being an old car or does it look a bit dodgy to you? Either way I am sure that is the fault but if anyone could confirm that would be piece of mind.

 

Im at a loose end, since I specifically told him it was the front, and I with **** all experience have seemed to have found the problem.

[seanl82 23]

Its difficult to make out with all the grease, but it looks like your ARB drop link isn't attached there. Check the other side and you'll see how it should be. The grease is from where the CV boot isn't tight. The grease is packed inside that rubber boot, and if its split or not tight like that, the revolutions of the drive shaft will fling it out everywhere! It looks like its relatively clean grease, so may have happened recently (pointing finger at the guy who was fiddling with it................ possibly), as anyone who knows cars would have noticed the drop link not attached if in fact it isn't, and diagnosed the problem as that. It would certainly cause clunking and poor front end handling if its not on. I'd also get some CV grease, pack it inside as much as you can, and at least get a cable tie around it temporarily.

Edited March 11, 2017 by seanl82

[harrisvr6 0]

Yes it is 100% that, it is not connected, it looks like the mini rod that runs vertically has snapped at the bottom connection. You can move it about freely on its (above) joint. See the pics of the intact (passenger side) which itself has seen better days but at least its connected.

 

Is the CV grease jet black? Its seems a bit thicker then general purpose grease, but don't know if it the type of grease and is new, or is black because of age and use etc.

 

Do you have any idea how much the ARB drop link (Im assuming the top connection, the rod in the middle and the bottom connection), the huge jubilee clip for the ribbed rubber housing and a tub of CV grease. Plus labour, is going to cost?

 

What would you pay / say to this guy?

[harrisvr6 0]

sorry wrong pics.

[seanl82 23]

Thats better. Yeah the drop link has snapped (its all one piece). I'd replace both as the other side is probably past its best. They're inexpensive and dead easy to fix, and packing a little grease in the CV and putting a clip on is very cheap and easy too. Any garage shouldn't charge much more than £100 for parts and labour to do it all mate.

[seanl82 23]

Where are you located by the way?

[harrisvr6 0]

Many thanks, thats sort of a relief i suppose. The other side looks pretty cracked on the rubber, so ill just change it.

 

I am a bit concerned about a couple of things. Firstly, and this might sound ridiculous, but is it drivable if I am super carefull, I need to be able to get it to work on monday. I can maybe even get a large jubille clip tomorrow to last better than a zip tie - until I can get the VW counterpart (if have to order from tps)...

 

How much grease is meant to be in there, or just jam packed full of?

Is there a special way to put it back on, because where I tried to slip it back on, it was a bit fiddly and I had to use a screwdriver get over the widest part and the grips to pull it over and on, like a glove. I can forsee that after filling it up, this screwdriver part just splurging it back out?

 

Im in NW london.

[seanl82 23]

Its ok to drive if you're careful, though not ideal. The VW item is semi permanent clamp and needs the tool to ensure its tight.

 

something like this.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CAR-ATV-FITS-99-OF-VEHICLES-CV-BOOT-CLAMPS-PAIR-X-2-EAR-PLIERS-/111893453867?hash=item1a0d5e9c2b:g:kN8AAOSwoydWsINm

 

 

 

Its not totally packed full of grease but obviously most of it has come out, so try to get a fair bit in. Its meant to be tight anyway so a bit of persuasion with the screwdriver would be fine, just be careful not to pierce it.

[harrisvr6 0]

Ok cool, halfords has the grease so I can hopefully get that and top up until I get the other parts, and hopefully put all this behind me.

 

Do you need any special tools etc to change the drop link, and is there a proceedure?

[seanl82 23]

No, a couple of 13mm and a 15 or 17mm spanners is all you need mate. The ARB end can sometimes be a real pain to get off. If you have a grinder it makes it easier!

[harrisvr6 0]

Could I do this with just the standard vw jack, I have been trying to find a video instructions but cant see a VR6 one, all the ones I have watched it appears the car is completley jacked up?

 

Might be better to just give it to another garage...

[seanl82 23]

I wouldn't recommend it. They don't call them widow makers for nothing! If you jack it up as far as you can, as long as you use some for of support underneath like an axle stand or even a couple of breeze blocks, you should be able to do it yourself. As mentioned the bit that screws into the ARB can become pretty well attached though! Thats the only issue you may have anyway.

[fendervg 32]

Don't use brieze blocks please - they tend to crumble.

[harrisvr6 0]

Got some axel stands for £13 from halfords, they have a sale on jacks and that at the mo so if anyone is after some now is a good time.

 

I filled the joints sleeve with as much grease as I could get in but I bet its not completely full(I had to sacrifice my toothpaste just for the tube to get it all in there and even then was very fiddily and awkward to get inside) and jubileed it tight, it just clears by a few MM as it spins, hopefully it will suffice until I can get the other parts and fix it properly.

[seanl82 23]

Nice one! Try to clean off as much of the grease thats spilled out as you can. If it gets on your pads they'll be toast, not to mention the fact that it may have a considerable affect on your ability to stop!

 

You're well on your way to becoming a budding DIY mechanic now too by the sound of it! Its all a bit daunting to start with, but its just nuts and bolts at the end of the day. These forums are invaluable for guides, advice and reassurance that you're doing the right thing though mate.

 

Keep it up! :thumbleft:

[harrisvr6 0]

Cheers man and thanks for the advice. VW ones are obsolete,so had to get copy drop links from al parts. Should be here tomorrow so can have a go tomorrow night. In the meantime do you think ajubillee clip over both rod ends sort of holding together will help until then?

[harrisvr6 0]

Got home after creeping along at snails pace. Checked the inside of the rim to see if the jubilee held and there was grease on the inside of the wheel. Jacked it all up and got the wheel off and the screw bit on the jubilee clip must have fouled, comne off and split the ribbed joint cover, so its ****ed, again!

Should have got the 4 busses to work instead of drove!!!

 

So now I need either the whole new joint or just the rubber cover, depending on how that comes. At least the drop links themselves will be with me tomorrow.

 

I noticed that the end of the ARB arm looked a bit rusted and peeling paint etc, will this be ok or would I need to do the whole ARB (rod / bar aswell)?!

[harrisvr6 0]

New drop links and cv joint boot fitted and this now seems to be fixed. I plan on getting some new front tyres and the alignment sorted this saturday.