Crackpipe snapped

[sharpy-vr6 10]

Hello

 

I'm sure this has been covered many times before but I have started stripping my bay to remove my vr6 block. I decided it would be a good idea to just remove anything to leave a bare block, including the thermostat and "crackpipe".

 

Now the plastic that has seen heat over the years is brittle and snapped in the block. I'm presuming a common issue.

 

As I'm hoping this is common I was wondering if anyone has encountered it and knows the best way to remove the remaining plastic in my block and if there is a nice metal aftermarket replacement that someone has invented? I know we have some keen engineers on this site who have come up with some genius solutions in the past.

 

Hope you can help

 

 

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[easypops 8]

There is a metal(possibly aluminium?) replacement, I bought one off here a while back, no idea where it came from originally though, hopefully someone else will know. I'll go and take a picture for you mate

[easypops 8]

Here you go mate, it even has a tap at the bottom for easy draining

[sharpy-vr6 10]

That's exactly what I'm thinking of.

It would great if you or anyone knows where these are available from?

 

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[easypops 8]

I bought it from Stonejag, I'd think he will know, maybe worth a PM as I've not seen him on in a while

[easypops 8]

Here you go

 

http://www.gruvenparts.com/the-ultimate-crackpipe-all-vr6/

[fendervg 32]

I have one of the Gruvenparts pipes - you'll need to get the mating surfaces and the hole in the block where the pipe fits really clean and smooth before putting it all back together. The drain hole is an allen key screw - quite hard to access though. The OE pipe has a drain plug in the same place as well.

 

There is some debate over whether an alloy pipe really makes much of a difference over the OE plastic, as you don't get to see it and the originals seem to last well over 100K before failure.

[sharpy-vr6 10]

Hmmm and there is a big price difference. The thing is I was looking for turbo track use to figure the heat and agree may be stronger so might be worth the metal equivalent

 

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[leon263 0]

Here's a standard plastic VW one from VW Parts International. Listed as suitable for the Mk3 Golf VR6 and the Corrado VR6 and your original one probably lasted about a hundred thousand miles.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/161484112411?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Edited March 9, 2017 by leon263

[dr_mat 0]

your original one probably lasted about a hundred thousand miles.

 

Indeed, the original has lasted at least 21 years. I think it's fair to say it's adequate for the job on a normal car.

[sharpy-vr6 10]

Thank you guys.

 

I'll order up a standard part, at that price it shouldn't be an issue even if it does fail again.

 

As for removing the small remaining piece that is stuck in the block has anyone got any hints on how to remove? My plan was to knock it through from the water pump side.

 

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[dr_mat 0]

"inside pliers" might do it? You might be able to use some circlip pliers too.

[Jim Bowen 1]

Hammer and screwdriver, a dremel is good for cleaning up the hole in block afterwards, usually pretty rusty.

[stuarttaylor37 13]

I wouldnt order the topran one, I found it didnt fit properly and others have found the same. It was difficult to locate in the block despite meticulous cleaning and lubing on entry (?). I only found out once reassembled that it was leaking and had to do it all again. I then fitted a metal one which fitted and sealed as it should

[fendervg 32]

They don't cost a lot from VW for an OE quality one - also try Ford dealers as the VR6 was also fitted to the Galaxy.