Identifying rear wheelbearings gone bad, or another non related rattle.

[harrisvr6 0]

Hi all,

 

I recently had my rear pads, discs and bearings changed.

Since then I have been getting this weird rattle, light creaking / tapping noise, it sound slike a light/hollow bit of metal, not very serious sounding but I still want to fix it. And I was wondering if anyone can help identify it.

I am a complete noob at identifying problems you see.

 

Since I noticed it (I have taken the wheel off and the grease cap and found that the thrust washer is very tight (tighter than the manual says, or what I perceived this tightness should be), so I am suspecting this has been tightened up too much and it has crushed the bearings or something, but I maybe well off.

I have take the grease cover off the bearings and packed more in there just incase they were not greased enough. It hasn't changed it. I have spoken to Sean and he said that when he had the (overly tight bearing issue) it was very fast acting (200meters) and mine has done over 200 miles since.

 

I have attached a few videos of the problem, but its tricky to hear clearly.

 

 

 

 

The noise seems to go when braking, and when handbraking only. And seems to go away after i go above 35-40mph (or it could be the engine noise drowning it out).

 

I was looking again today for anything scored, loose broken etc since it has fgottena bit worse and thought that there could possibly be a visual sign and I noticed that the clip on top of the inner brake pad looked as if it wasn't connected right, I tried to force it back in and it bloody snapped off the pad, see pics. If you imagine my fingers are the calipers and the 2 prongs were not sitting under the caliper, one was and the other was in the gap fee to move, so there wasnt any pressure on the pad itself.

The other brake was both under the caliper. By not having this on the pad at all, does it make it dodgy - dangerous, should I buy another brand new set of pads (they are brand new). I drove it breifly after this came off and there is no difference.

Can someone tell me the purpose of this, is it to stop the pad from moving about too much?

 

I have noticed one of the exhaust supports has snapped off, but the rubber clips and the bar itself is holding the exhaust tubing up. It doesn't seem to rattle as constantly as I'd have thought if it was this, but I deffo want to get this welded back on.

 

Many thanks in advance all.

[Jim Bowen 1]

I'd get new pads, they aren't too expensive, but you really want the spring bit there to keep the pad in the correct place.

[jekel 10]

I'd be taking it back then finding another garage, or do it yourself.

Sounds like they've misfitted the pads, if the spring tong things aren't sitting right almost 100% the pads aren't sitting in the holders right, you won't force it back in, and should never be able to pop out is fitted correctly. Would account for noise and rest too.

New rear bearings should be finger tight on nut, so sounds like they've screwed that up too.

It is possible to misfit the pads, but you've got to be a ham fisted idiot, and should be obvious when putting together.

[harrisvr6 0]

Thanks for the pointers guys.

 

I have already ordered more VW bearings, i wasn't sure exactly on the bolts so will order those tomorrow. I will pick new pads up too, and put these on first, just to be sure...

I think I'm going to try this myself to be honest. As I have watched the walk through many times and I think I can do this (this is probably all a piece of **** to you guys, but its still a little daunting to me).

 

Can someone elaborate finger tight, the VW book says, "thrust washer must be movable using finger pressure, without prying"

Does this mean the washer should be fairly hard to move by hand BUT it must be moveable (as long as I dont use the race as leverage).

Silly question is this using one hand to move it. I'm worried about not tightening it enough or too much.

 

Can someone confirm that the bolts I need to/should ideally replace on the brakes are the ones in the picture (2x 60nm & 1x 35nm) see picture?

[jekel 10]

The manual means can move the washer, just, without using leverage against, i.e. prising against hub, like you say.

 

I'd say a tiny bit tighter, tighten up whilst turning wheel opposite way, very gently, back off quarter to half a turn, then tighten by hand with the socket on it, i.e. turn the socket with fingers, not the nut with your fingers, but not using the wrench, just fingers.

I've done quite a few before though, get a feeling for wehat's right.

Recheck after 50 miles or so, see if loosened off any.

Whole job is really easy, go for it.

 

Don't try front bearings yourself, they are a nightmare.

[Dox 23]

Before you replace them, jack up one corner, hold the wheel at 3 oclock and 9 oclock with the handbrake off and rock the wheel, there should be slight play, if there's no play the bearings are too tight, metal on metal squeegees the grease away so the bearings are unlubricated and wears quickly.

 

Swap your hands to 6 oclock and 12 oclock, how much play do you have now? An excess is due to worn stub axles, if you try to adjust the bearings to remove this slop they will be too tight.

 

Modern technicians aren't used to adjustable taper bearings (being used to more modern machinery with zero play) and pretty much always fail or advise them at MOT time, the rear tapers are exactly the same as air-cooled Beetle front so they've been around a long time........

[Jim Bowen 1]

I spin the wheel up by hand and then tighten the nut until it starts to brake the wheel, then test to see how easily it free wheels. Although when i had mot done the guy said i needed to tighten them a bit, i didn't do that though.

[harrisvr6 0]

Many thanks for the advise, I swapped the pads over today and it seems to have fixed the issue.

I'm soo happy right now. You know when you have a good drive in the rado and it feels great, I felt that today luckily (other problems aside).

I was carefull to grease the contact points with copper before and did the pins with silicone, they were all manky and needed some love. Seems to have worked though.

 

There is some movement on the wheels maybe 1mm-1.5mm but it spine smoothly and easily.

I know that they are probably too tight though. I had packed that cavity with grease. Do you think I should change them now?

I may just buy the bearings as I have ordered them and have them for if and when these go bad.

[jekel 10]

I'd get new ones and have ready, get a good make, not very expensive and easy to fit, and sounds like garage you went to probs just got the cheapest based on their workmanship you mentioned.

They shouldn't be packed with grease, need room to expand, bout 2/3's full I normally go but book will probs tell you half.