Jonnom 10 Posted December 22, 2017 93 SLC Was at school, idled for about 30 mins. Left to get food, got about 20 feet, and the car shut down. Maybe let out a little hiss. The car is getting spark and fuel to the fuel rail. Not sure if it's getting past the injectors. Have switched the crank sensor, coil, dizzy and rotor. Any ideas? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dr_mat 0 Posted December 23, 2017 What does the diags port claim is the problem? A Corrado is for life, not just for the MOT. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted December 24, 2017 Ecu relay 109. Worth changing. Will cut power to the injectors and sparks intermittently if its faulty Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1200 bandit 10 Posted December 24, 2017 Where about in the fuse box is the 109 relay Sorry for hi jacking your thread as my 2.0 16v does this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted December 25, 2017 I don't think the 2.0 had this relay but I'm sure someone will advise further. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dr_mat 0 Posted December 25, 2017 Best way to diagnose this is to scan the ECU, vag-com/OBDeleven style. Could be the immobiliser as much as anything else, but that would become clear on a fault code check. A Corrado is for life, not just for the MOT. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jonnom 10 Posted December 25, 2017 (edited) Coolant temp sensor and throttle body reading -49 degrees. Bad ground? Also in US so farenheit Edited December 25, 2017 by Jonnom Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dr_mat 0 Posted December 26, 2017 Throttle sensor is on the pedal, if that's what you mean. It should run smoothly from about minus 10 to plus 95 degrees as you push the pedal down. A Corrado is for life, not just for the MOT. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jonnom 10 Posted December 26, 2017 What about the coolant temp though? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dr_mat 0 Posted December 27, 2017 (edited) Well yeah it's likely. Lots of people have trouble with those things and wind up replacing them. A Corrado is for life, not just for the MOT. Edited December 27, 2017 by dr_mat Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1200 bandit 10 Posted December 27, 2017 I had a hot start fault engine temperature sensor fault,New sensor had been fitted (by previous owner) Found that the wiring under the rubber boot had corroded and fell off the wiring pins,replaced the wiring and now no hot starting problem Also found wiring to the throttle body switch had corroded,carried wiring repair and now excellent idle hot and cold Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1200 bandit 10 Posted January 7, 2018 Carried checks on my Corrado 2.0 16 v .found the wiring under the rubber cover that goes to the temperature switch had fell off,also found the wiring to the throttle body ( 2 out of the 3 wires was snapped) repair the wiring and now starts,runs spot on. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jonnom 10 Posted January 12, 2018 (edited) Getting frustrated with this car. Replaced the coolant temp sensor, still no luck getting it started. The battery also seems to be draining super fast. I assume I should be poking around with a multimeter, but where? And also, how do I check the wires for places such as the temperature sensor clip? I'm still somewhat noobie when it comes to electrical. Edited January 12, 2018 by Jonnom Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted January 12, 2018 Getting frustrated with this car. Replaced the coolant temp sensor, still no luck getting it started. The battery also seems to be draining super fast. I assume I should be poking around with a multimeter, but where? And also, how do I check the wires for places such as the temperature sensor clip? I'm still somewhat noobie when it comes to electrical. Put a meter between the battery clamp and battery terminal and read the current. Should be around 0.2A with everything switched off. If its higher, pull fuses until it goes down. This will isolate your drain circuit. Then check items on that circuit. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jonnom 10 Posted January 13, 2018 When you say measuring between the clamp and terminal, which gets red and which gets black? I tried both and couldn’t get any reading besides 0. Sorry to sound so new. Also, on vortex, I was directed to look at the ground on the head, as looking at a diagram, it controls both the tps and clt. I believe this is the ground i’m looking for And this is the reading I got putting red to the exposed wire and black to the head Am I correct in assuming this ground is junk? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jonnom 10 Posted January 13, 2018 x Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jonnom 10 Posted January 13, 2018 When you say putting it between the clamp and terminal, how do you mean? Where do I put black and red? I tried black on terminal and red on clamp and vise versa but only got a reading of 0 each time. Also, on vortex I was directed to the ground at the head. This controls the coolant temp sensor among other things. This is what I believe to be the ground, which I found frayed and ugly looking. I put the black on the head and the red on the exposed wire on the ground, like so The reading indicates the ground is junk, but i’m not sure if i’m measuring it correctly Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jonnom 10 Posted January 13, 2018 (edited) Put a meter between the battery clamp and battery terminal and read the current. Should be around 0.2A with everything switched off. If its higher, pull fuses until it goes down. This will isolate your drain circuit. Then check items on that circuit. How do you mean? I tried red on terminal, black on clamp, and vise versa, but could only get a reading of 0. Also, on vortex, I was directed to check out the ground on the cylinder head.[ATTACH=CONFIG]91060[/ATTACH] I believe this is the correct ground I'm looking for. The end is all frayed and looks to be barely hanging on. When I attempted to read the resistance, I put red on the exposed wire and black on the head. If this is correct, it is indicating that the ground is bad. [ATTACH=CONFIG]91063[/ATTACH] Is this correct? Am I measuring this correctly? And how would I repair this ground? Can I just solder on a new connection to the post? Edited January 14, 2018 by Jonnom Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jonnom 10 Posted January 13, 2018 [ATTACH=CONFIG]91066[/ATTACH] The first image got dropped. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seanl82 23 Posted January 14, 2018 (edited) The first image, OL is open link. That means it has no reading and the circuit is open, therefore the cable is completely broken down. Check the earth necxt to the battery too. It goes to a stud right next to the battery tray just to the side. Not meaning to insult you, but when checking current, make sure the meter is set to Amps Edited January 14, 2018 by seanl82 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1200 bandit 10 Posted January 14, 2018 (edited) If you remove the wiring block from sensors and hold the wiring block and gently pull on the wiring to check the wiring is secure inside the wiring block,Have you a scanner to carry checks l had this on my Corrado 2.0 he previous owner had fitted lots of sensors because of a running fault. You can pull the rubber boot back and check the wiring You can also put a jump lead from earth side of the battery to a good earth on the engine this will earth the battery to engine Edited January 14, 2018 by 1200 bandit Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites