VR6 Blue Smoke - Oil?

[edition 0]

Hi,

 

I’ve replaced the engine in my car with a vr6. It’s done high miles (140k) but had a full history with it.

 

I did the chains on it and put it in the car a good few years ago but never got round to using it! I ran it at the weekend for the first time and I’m getting some blue smoke at idle (just about see it) and then abit of a puff on acceleration.

 

It’s currently running semi-synthetic Mobil 1 0w40. From what I’ve read this is abit too thin? Could this be adding to my blue smoke issues?

 

The car has only been driven approx. 4 miles so I’m hoping it gets better not worse!

 

Many thanks in advance.

[VEEDUBBED 0]

Probably oil leaking down the stems past the seals.

Try a thicker grade of oil first, possibly a 10/40W.

[Dox 23]

A litre per 1000 miles is to be expected on what is an old engine with old, dry and probably cracked valve stem oil seals.

 

A fivers worth of oil per 1K miles or £1000s on a rebuild? If its not fouling the plugs with I'd just keep an eye on oil level and run it, many in the same situation have tried various oils and "snake oils" that claim to supress oil usage and found little difference.

 

Even full rebuilds have ended up with oil usage and a rattily top ends

[edition 0]

Thanks for the replies.

 

So 10w40 would be the best bet?

[Jim Bowen 1]

Yes, i'd use a thicker oil. Am sure its meant to be 10w/40, whats the theory behind using a 0w?

[swiftkid 1]

Was there much difference with engine hot and cold? If its chucking out blue smoke on acceleration is ring related I believe, 0W-40 imo is too thin for these engines, I'd definitely start with 10W-40 fully synthetic but if it's been stood for a while a good oil change might cure it. My old VR6 used to get quite hot so I opted for 10W-50.

 

Fully synthetic is a bit more expensive than Halfords spec Castrol etc. but it does make a difference on the worn old VR6's so would advise that. Most people go for the Fuchs but I swear by Millers, it's a bit cheaper but does the job nicely - personal preference really

[Graphite 0]

As suggested 0w40 is too thin really on the cold side. It has the same optimal viscosity when at running temperatures (40). Once its warmed up (80 degrees centigrade oil temperature), if the smoke is still there it is unlikely the oil viscosity is causing it. If the engine has sat for a while the valve stem seals may have hardened a bit causing some leakage. I would personally have changed the oil before starting after a long period as there may be some water in the oil from condensation that formed during storage. Might be worth changing the oil anyway and changing to the OE spec oil at the same time (10w40).

 

Troy.

[edition 0]

Hi,

 

The oil was changed when I put the engine in. I.e new but 5 years old!

 

It has been started a few times but not run Upto proper temp.

 

I’ll try an oil change to 10w40 and see if I get any change.