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_Matt_

ABS Pump 1H2 614 217 A (VR6)

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Let me know if you do and assume it was working etc? How muchos - msg me if you’d prefer :)

Matt

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Hi mate unfortunately this is the number of the ones i have

 

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Thanks mate anyway and for taking the time to look. I've no idea on compatibility between pumps so prob best i stick to my part numbers.

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I don't think the pumps changed on the RHD VR6s - probably just a minor parts revision. Once it's got the correct number of outlets and the right loom connector socket you should be good to go. Be aware that the actual mode of failure on these is not the valve solenoid (unless extremely corroded or heavily contaminated brake fluid), but the PCB that is underneath, which can crack with heat, get dirty/wet and the loom connector disintegrates.

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Got the same pump number as yours. I bought it last week for my VR6, but it turns out mines an electrical fault. The guy I bought it from assured me it works/worked.

Upon the pump being delivered, the electric plug was damaged in transit.

It’s not this your after is it ? You just want the pump you want. Let me know if you still want/need it. Thanks Scott.

 

 

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Thanks Scott, I’m after the whole pump. Not sure which connector you mean that’s broke - I think I would need this to connect it to my car.

 

Fendervg- just re-read your reply - is the circuit board on the pump or is it the abs ECU that can fail to cause inlet valve fail code (I don’t think these are the same thing but correct me if I am wrong..)

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PCB is in the rectangular plastic housing that sits underneath the pump unit. Right in the way of lots of heat, dirt and water! The connector goes into the front of it. Two long Allen head screws hold the cover on, but they can seize and are easy to round off.

 

I don't think the ECUs go faulty that often unless they get water damaged. It's all solid state and simple stuff.

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Cheers, I’m not sure if that’s easy to repair I.e does it screw in and could I use existing connection to replace the broken one? If so I would be interested in buying

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The guy that sent me the damaged one had a spare, which he also sent. This one looks fine and undamaged.

Now I know my car is an electrical fault I can sell you this one if you like.

 

 

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Thanks, I have had a couple of quotes from bba. £350 for a refurb unit or £189 to repair mine, plus vat and carriage.

 

I know what you mean though, but more cash but at least you know it will work and by the time you’ve sourced and fitted a second second hand pump cause the first was bad it’s probably the same!

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From what others have said BBA Reman can only repair the PCB or swap the cylindrical motor for a used one, all other parts are obsolete.

 

I paid £30 for a MK3 Golf Pump and it works fine even though it has a different part number, it’s off an early car with rectangular side repeater indicators, the ecu is under the back seat.

Edited by Dox

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I guess it all depends on the fault but I have a suspicion that they fail, generally for the same reason. The housing degenerates and then moisture gets in which fries the PCB. This was the problem on "Wheel Dealers" when they had an ABS fault. From personal experience, I would be more inclined to pay more for a refurb unit with a guarantee than take my chances on a second hand pump which will probably develop the same fault in a shorter space of time.

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I guess it all depends on the fault but I have a suspicion that they fail, generally for the same reason. The housing degenerates and then moisture gets in which fries the PCB. This was the problem on "Wheel Dealers" when they had an ABS fault. From personal experience, I would be more inclined to pay more for a refurb unit with a guarantee than take my chances on a second hand pump which will probably develop the same fault in a shorter space of time.

 

I've got that issue on the hard-drive - I've just watched it, they replaced the cylindrical motor for a used one, they replaced the PCB for a used one. They blew it out with an airline and blasted the corrosion from the outer casing and tested it before and after. Hardly a recon, more Franken-pump?

 

Don't get me wrong I applaud them for doing their best to repair our obsolete spares and keep our cars legal, but suggest its more of a repair than a recon?

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I've got that issue on the hard-drive - I've just watched it, they replaced the cylindrical motor for a used one, they replaced the PCB for a used one. They blew it out with an airline and blasted the corrosion from the outer casing and tested it before and after. Hardly a recon, more Franken-pump?

 

Don't get me wrong I applaud them for doing their best to repair our obsolete spares and keep our cars legal, but suggest its more of a repair than a recon?

What's the difference?

 

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What's the difference?

 

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We're not going to agree, so let others decide which way they want to go.

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Well, there aren't many options. BBA-Reman at least have diagnostics that they can use to test a pump unit. If you or someone you know is handy with electronics it's possible to take a look at the PCB yourself.

 

There's very few good second hand units around because most of them weren't working when taken off the car and they were only produced for RHD in the first place.

 

VW do have some new ones in stock, but at over £2k a piece I don't think there will be many takers.

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There's very few good second hand units around because most of them weren't working when taken off the car and they were only produced for RHD in the first place.

 

 

Most Corrados have been broken because the value of there parts far exceed the prices they could achieve for the cars whole at that moment in time.

 

Its not only the pumps that are unreliable, the pedal sensors are problematic too, dash lights as well as relctor rings and the wheel sensors themselves, not to mention water ingress into the ECU via a leaking windscreen. Couple that with the fact most scanners wont connect / read the codes.

 

My car arrived with the light continually on, a scan with VCDS pulled loads of faults, a front wheel sensor put the light off so I could get the cars first ever MOT pass.

The fault then went intermittent, I replaced the pump with a used one and that got rid of the inlet / outlet valve faults (after a replacement ECU had no effect what so ever) and then I had intermittent pedal sensor faults, a reconditioned (re-soldered) pedal sensor has put the light out permanently ( for the time being at least). So don't be surprised if there are multiple issues if the light has been ignored or bypassed for ever and a day.

 

People have said there's just enough wiring to connect to a pump for trial without disturbing the hydraulics on the original unit, I've not tried it myself but maybe worth a go before you rip out the old unit and have the tedious job of trying to expel all the air now in the brakes lines.

 

All this was before the Wheeler Dealers episode was screened with the help of this forum and its members posts.

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I must admit, being a new owner, the parts situation is a bit of an eye opener as to why so many of have been broken. I had wrongly assumed the Corrado was mostly built from parts from other VW stock and didn’t realise some were bespoke.

 

In terms of other pumps – I’ve seen some that look very similar but differ in the last bit of the part number - they end in 117 instead of 217. Would this work - might even be worth a punt if it’s only £30? I have seen some ending 217 B but they look like completely different units.

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