CE2 Fusebox - Rear Connections removal

[baff 10]

Hi there,

Sorry for the newb question.

Does anyone know how to remove the rear conections from the fuse box?

Turns out the fusebox is melted and I need to swap it.

 

Thanks!

[carrots 1]

there are 2 clips in the side of fuse box.slide them out then you can remove the plugs from the back

[fendervg 30]

I think there might be a sliding plastic tab/bar that locks the connectors in place as well - needs to be moved to the side. But it's been a while since I've had the whole fuse box out.

[baff 10]

Thanks a lot @carrots!

 

Yes @fendervg that's the one I am looking for! I can't find it anywhere!

 

Does anyone know where does the red burnt red cable goes?

I want to replace it and cannot find anything related to it.

Does it go all the way to the battery?

[ATTACH=CONFIG]96502[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]96504[/ATTACH]

Edited March 11, 2019 by baff

[seanl82 23]

There are a few “spare” connectors back there. Generic looms for additional extras or requirements in different markets. I know there are a couple of 1 or 2 pin connectors not required but can’t say 100% which colours they are.

[fendervg 30]

That looks like one of the +12V direct to battery terminal posts that are spare - http://www.a2resource.com/electrical/CE2.html

 

Z1/Z2, 30/30B all fed straight from the battery and used for taking permanent live to an accessory, but the wiring/loom or part should then have a correctly rated inline fuse fitted.

Edited March 11, 2019 by fendervg

[baff 10]

Should I replace the wire completely or just cut out the burned part and replace the plug?

I don't seem to find details regarding this wire to replace it: size, length...

All I managed to find is that the positive goes to the alternator.

 

I managed to find some images with the connectors.

Is the purple thing... the release plate?

In what direction do I pull it? It makes no sense to me.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]96506[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]96508[/ATTACH]

 

From my position I don't see the release plate

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]96510[/ATTACH]

Edited March 11, 2019 by baff

[fendervg 30]

No - the long round thing at the bottom is what holds the plugs securely in place when the locking tab is pushed over.

 

If you are just looking to remove the pins themselves you will need a pin extractor tool - something like:

https://www.kufatec.com/en/all-products/pin-removal-tool-micro-pins-35495 (plenty of cheaper alternatives available)

or you can also make do with a very small instrument screwdriver.

[swiftkid 1]

To release the plug there is a pin on one side, you can see it right in the middle of the image below and you pull it outwards (shown left).

 

Those plugs are different to the corrado ones but its look like you just slide the purple retaining pin outwards but you will still need the terminal pin removal tool to remove the pins. I used the durite multi tool and they were brilliant but you can also get an old wiper blade and use the metal insert strips as release pins. I'm sure there's a youtube video or something how to do it but you'll get a better understanding of the pin removal in this link which shows the durite tool

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]96512[/ATTACH]

[baff 10]

Thanks guy's!

You rock!

 

Regarding the burnt live cable, should I replace it completely or could I cut off the damaged part and re plug it?

[fendervg 30]

Yeah, it's the centre strip - those holes you can see above and below it are where the locating lugs go and the stip then locks them in.

 

For the cable, depends on how much damage there is - it looks from your first pic that it took a lot of current, so personally I would replace it if it is easy enough to get at the rest of it.

[swiftkid 1]

That large red cable I believe is your 'Z' pin which is unfused power to your injectors, just so it doesn't happen again you could cut back the cable and add an inline fuse. The wire runs right the way round the bay into the large multi pin so would mean taking the loom fully out, not a wonderful job.