Bad ignition switch?

[_Matt_ 32]

Hi

I have a problem that I had put down to the clifford alarm and am waiting for the local alarm guy to fit me in.

 

Thinking tonight perhaps it is ignition switch related? I havent experienced the issue before and assumed the car would crank but no spark when they fail but I could be wrong.

 

My symptoms are - car drove off trailer and parked on my drive for a night. The following day I drove it into my garage. I disconnected the battery and left the car. Came back a few days later and I get no cranking and no fuel pump prime, actually when the issue first occurred I did get a fuel pump prime but only for a split second (less than normal) however this has since stopped.

 

The other thing I see is that I have no mileage display until I get to 2nd ignition. I thought my last corrado had miles displayed all the time. When I pull away from 2nd ignition miles display disappears.

 

I have dropped the fuse box down looking for loose wires but everything looks broadly stock and secured. No spliced wires at the back and no splits or loose connections.

 

Also when turning to 2nd ignition I can feel relay 109 clicking with a finger touching the relay. Battery is on a tickle charger.

 

Is any of that a bad ignition switch?

 

Cheers

Matt

 

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[fla 9]

Any change when you wiggle the key in the switch? Might just be worth changing it to rule it out anyway.

It does point to something loose though, especially as the display seems to disappear when turning the key.

[Dox 23]

Factory immobiliser is on the same fuse as the rear spoiler- if the spoiler lifts on the button the fuse is ok.

check wires to rear of ignition switch, if the securing tab has broken they can fall off the back of the switch.

 

battery has to be suspect if it’s been flattened then recharged for the sale, 12.6v when left over night with a meter calibrated with another source - your daily?

Edited April 26, 2023 by Dox

[_Matt_ 32]

Thanks both.

The spoiler does work and the battery is new / shows good voltage on the multimeter. It's been on constant trickle as well. I'm not that great at electrics but have tested for power to the starter motor and fuel pump and there is nothing on cracking/past 2nd igntion. Intially I gave up and thought it must be the Clifford however that is a recent install and I spent a good 20 mins on the phone with my local clifford guy trying a few things alarm related to no avail. He's going to come out when is convienent as I said i wasn't in a rush. 

I had a factory immobilier fault on another VW and that started for a second and then shut off. I ended up deleting the immobiliser chip in the ECU on that car as the keys were not original and were without transponder.

I have tried wriggle the key but it didn't go and I've also wriggled the wires from ignition switch area but haven't inspected for broken clips. 

The battery is a VARTA B18 44ah 440. It looks smaller than what I had in my last one 

 

[1xshaunx1 27]

On an earlier Corrado I had, I had similar problems that you mention. 
it turned out to be the barrel itself and an intermittent seizing of the fuel relay, sometimes it clicked over other times not, I think the duff barrel burnt it out. 
apparently having a big bunch of keys hanging out of the ignition is bad for the wear of the barrel. 

[Dox 23]

Car out of gear! IMPORTANT IF YOU'RE STANDING IN FRONT OF IT!).

Ignition on

Apply 12v+ to the small terminal on the starter - prepare for the engine to crank (this is ignition switch bypass).

does engine run?

[1xshaunx1 27]

Fuel pump must run for the engine to do the same 

[Dox 23]

2 hours ago, 1xshaunx1 said:

Fuel pump must run for the engine to do the same 

Yes, but if the engine cranks strongly it proves battery and starter ok.

then it needs investigation to ignition switch or immobiliser(s).

 

 

 

[_Matt_ 32]

hmm ok no cranking on ths starter when i hook up a lead from battery + to where I connected on the starter in the pic.

Battery shows 13.1v on the multimeter.

Looking at the state of that nut on the starter I think perhaps a clean of all the earths will help no end... next Q where are all the earths to clean and best way is wire brush and some electrical cleaner i guess?

SCRAP this - just seen I was meant to do ignition on which i haven't done (doh! Did say i am not the best at this electrical malarky)

[_Matt_ 32]

ok re-did the test with igntion on second ignition and no crank. Bad earths? 

[Dox 23]

14 hours ago, _Matt_ said:

hmm ok no cranking on ths starter when i hook up a lead from battery + to where I connected on the starter in the pic.

Battery shows 13.1v on the multimeter.

Looking at the state of that nut on the starter I think perhaps a clean of all the earths will help no end... next Q where are all the earths to clean and best way is wire brush and some electrical cleaner i guess?

SCRAP this - just seen I was meant to do ignition on which i haven't done (doh! Did say i am not the best at this electrical malarky)

That's the heavy wire from the battery (needs a clean up), its the thin wire on the starter solenoid that needs 12v+ to kick the starter in.

 

The starter has 3 connections.

 

Earth, this is from the metal body of the starter to the metal of the gearbox bellhousing via its bolts, the earth to the battery terminal (thick wire) is on one of the bell housing to engine bolts, needs to be able to carry a heavy current when cranking the engine over.

 

Positive thick wire from the battery to the starter secured with a nut (13mm spanner), carries a heavy current when cranking the engine over.

 

Positive from the ignition switch, this is a thin wire with a push fit connector, needs to carry less current from the switch to prevent the switch burning out. This is the one you connect to 12V+ to do the test I suggested previously (mimic the ignition switch).

Edited April 29, 2023 by Dox

[_Matt_ 32]

Ohh I see, cheers for explaining, I can see the push connector you mean - it's that one with the thin red wire in my pic I reckon.

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