16V KR Experts Please?

[GB_SEAN 0]

Propbably been covered a million times before but why not once more?

 

Idle at 3000 rpm, now I know the 16V is a high revving engine but come on!

 

Disconnect the ISV and the revs drop, switch motor off and replug ISV, startup and it's back up to 3K on idle. There is no difference whether the engine is hot or cold. Have taken off ISV had a good look inside and it's as clean as a whistle? Wiring is ok (obviously as makes a difference when detached).

 

Tell me what I need to hear, how do I fix this annoying niggle? :x :?:

[Linus Van Pelt 0]

...if you have a friendly neighbourhood Corrado owner, you could try swapping your ISV for their one to see if that makes any difference :?:

 

If the ISV is fubar'd then a new one is going to set you back about £100...

 

(assuming this is your problem of course)

 

LvP.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Next time it's running at 3000rpm, whack the ISV with a hammer and see if it drops. The internal valve could be jammed, so a quick squirt of silicon maintanence spray would help there too.

 

I used to carry a blunt object in one of my 16Vs for this very reason. Non starting and excessive idling were both cured with a sharp whack of the ISV.

[aide 0]

Control unit to the ISV? Apparently the control unit is behind dash but never needed to look for it myself, little box with VDO written on it

[Kevin Bacon 5]

They rarely go wrong.

 

Another thing to check is the throttle cable. If it's too tight, the microswitch on the throttle body won't close.

[aide 0]

They rarely go wrong.

 

yeh your right, never know tho :D

 

GBSean I prepared the following when tinkering and reference to Haynes..... mine still ain't idling right though :D

 

 

Idle Adjustment

· Run to normal operating temperature (all electrical inc fan off)

· Disconnect crankcase breather

· Disconnect red/ black wire spade connector at coil

· Adjust idle to 1000K50rpm

 

 

ISV Testing

· ISV should buzz when ignition on, check with ohmmeter

· Check temp sender (above water jacket supply) Should be 20degs – 1000ohms, 60degs – 250 ohms, 100degs – 75 ohms)

· At idle pinch the hose from the ISV to the metering head, revs should die, if not the ISV is knackered and car idling of the idle screw.

· Replace ISV or control unit.

 

Overrun Cut Off Valve

· Run to 2500rpm and simultaneously operate throttle valve switch on throttle body, engine should hunt. If not remove throttle switch, voltage should be zero, run to 4000rpm and close throttle, voltage should be indicated at 1400rpm.

· Renew control unit behind dash.

 

Diaphragm Pressure Switch

· Disconnect connector, ohmmeter reading should be infinity, blip throttle and resistant should drop briefly.

 

Throttle Valve Switch

· Remove connector, ohmmeter reading should be zero between 1 & 2, and infinity between 2 & 3. With throttle open readings should be reversed.

[GB_SEAN 0]

Call me stupid but I'm afraid VW's are new to me as I converted from being a Ford RS guru. (What a waste of time that was) And I now realise how crap fords are built in comparison. Will NEVER go back.

 

The VW setup is like speaking in German (literally) to me.

 

Can you tell me or even a pic would be good, failing that I'll buy a haynes manual for Golf 16v.

 

Overrun Cut Off Valve?

Diaphragm Pressure Switch?

 

Throttle Valve switch? Do you mean Throttle Position Sensor?

 

Thanks for your patience lads!

[Kevin Bacon 5]

The RS Turbo used K-Jetronic aswell, so you should be right at home :lol:

[GB_SEAN 0]

KE Jetronic on Rs Turbo, Bleed Valves Dump Valves Hybrid's Amal Valves Thermo Time Switches, Water Temp Sensor etc I can understand as easy as pie, I think it's just a case of the components being named differently thats baffling, I'm still in transition.

[h100vw 0]

Throttle body only has 2 switches, one for a closed throttle so the computer knows it should be at idle and for setting timing and tickover. The other is a full throttle switch again for the computers benefit. Nowt as complicated as a TPS on a 16V.

 

Overrun cutoff valve. When you shut the throttle at more than 1500 revs the ECU opens the cut off valve, this allows air to bleed around the plate in the fuel distributor. The Plate drops and cuts of the flow to the injectors. When the revs drop to 1500 the valve shuts and fuel is the allowed to flow to the injectors. It is to cut emmissions and improve economy.

 

Can't remember about the DPS.

 

Gavin

[h100vw 0]

KE Jetronic on Rs Turbo, Bleed Valves Dump Valves Hybrid's Amal Valves Thermo Time Switches, Water Temp Sensor etc I can understand as easy as pie, I think it's just a case of the components being named differently thats baffling, I'm still in transition.

 

Nearly all the same components fitted on a 16V, mostly the same names too. Bosch have a good book, 'How to tune and modify Bosch fuel injection'. Very useful. The Haynes is pretty good too. You need the WORKSHOP manual not the repair manual.

 

Gavin

[steveo29 0]

mine did that....isv was faulty even though it was minty clean and still buzzing.....ebay has em new for 39 quid

[GB_SEAN 0]

They do ??? I'll have a look. Cheers.

[aide 0]

Yeh bloke on ebay sells a few VDO bits and pieces, if its same guy i bought off you can buy with confidence... i have his number too if you can't be bothered waiting for the auction to end?