Madjackal

although i would have to bleed the brakes if replacing the calipers tho right??

hmm ok, well they now say that apparently the whole n/s cable needs replacing, (soon as i told them id done the bearing and taken the handbrake surround off to save some money, wankers!) i can do all that stuff myself although never done a handbrake cable before, very tempted to have a go myself this weekend now tho and save even more cash!!

ok so the bearing is in finally (race included), addtionally ive left my isv soaking in carb cleaner for most of the day but unfortunatley the jubilee clips i bought are slightly too small so my question is, will i make it 15 mins drive to b and q without the larger hose secured? Also I have removed all the handbrake surrounds there are to hex bolts on each of the hb cables is the outer one of these a locking nut and does it undo in the normal direction?

So how important is it to change the bearing surround (race?) only it really aint comin out. plus there are two a lrage inner one and a small outer one both out?

Sorry yeah it is the rear bearing!

Oh and the MOT test says NS head lamp aim too far to the right? Do they adjust left and right I thought it was only up and down?? How about tightening the hanbrake cable should I attempt this?

VAG dont have any in and gotta save cash at the mo, plus the way things are going I probably wont have the car next year but thanks anyway!

Stealers want £300.00 to adjust the headlight, tighten the handbrake cable and fit a new wheel bearing. Well i think im gonna get the bearing from GSF and do it myself so any pointers?

Yes, that's exactly what the factory immobiliser does. Bizarre as it may be, the VW immobiliser doesn't actually kill the spark and fuel until it's running. Your alarm's immobiliser is completely different (it cuts the starter and fuel pump circuits) and is additional to the factory one. Ahhh see i didnt know that! soz. Anyway i tried it at lunchtime and it was fine! Plus after reading the assciated thread its all starting to make sence to me. Still learning after all this time! Well cheers for all the help folks may have to start looking for this immobiliser box and trying to work out what all that stuff means lol!

My immobiliser wont let the ignition turn over at all tho. The enigine does actually start, it then runs for about a second or so as I say then the revs just drop away and it stops??

My car was fine when I used it last but I got up Sunday morning and am having problems. I can start the car but it wont stay running just dies after about a second. It kicks over and then the revs just die, seems as though its either getting restricted air or fuel perhaps, something to do with the injectors?? It happened a couple of times over the last two weeks or so but I managed to get it going with some revving. Now it just wont stay running. I have recently put a new cam position sensor in, changed the sump, albeit for one which is actuall slightly deeper on one side than the one previously fitted, and I did clean my air filter as well. Could it be that the level of the oil is different and therefore causiong problems? Something to do with the sensor? Do I NEED to use oil when changing my filter as i have read about people oiling there filters but no nothing of the subject. Could this be a factor?

So things went well at the weekend, I changed the cam sensor and it has made a world of difference which is good (thank again Kev). I cleaned my BMC filter changed the sump, oil, oil filter and coolant. Changed all the rusty bolts on the calipers, brake shields and shocks, and put a new ball joint in. I now have better performance and lower engine/oil temps, at 70mph for most of the way home from nottingham oil was averaging 92 degrees and at spells 100mph it never went higher 112 so im quite happy. Now, all weekend the ABS light has been diligently coming on with the ignition and then turning off. Which has lead me to think that maybe since the VACOM brough up a massive failure of all the valves in the ABS pump that maybe the problem was due to the connection to the pump rather than the pump its self. So I get up today anyway and get in the car take it down for the MOT and of course the light stays on. I have a 2nd hand ABS pump waiting in the wings and will have the MOT results very soon but I am at a loss on this one at present. By the way does anyone know where to find the thermostat on a 1976 mustang as the haynes manual gives details of how to change it but not its location?

Cheers! Im sure I could arrange that! lol

The light is still off as of last night, I havent checked it today yet as I walk to work but will have a look tonight. I cant see this damn sensor, do i have to remove the cover and coil pack before it shows its self? Ive kinda missed this banter!

Thanks for that! Dont suppose you couls assist in the location and description of the cam sensor could you, only Im ordering a impulse sender from VAG and I wont actually know if its wrong or not! :shrug:

So Kev very kindly VAGCOM'd my car last night, I need a new cam position sensor, VW advised all they could come up with is a impulse snder, is this the same? And how easy is it to fit? Also it brought up a complete failure on all four ABS pump valves (i know this is technically drive train but), can anyone advise if they have a 2nd hand pump and also whether Ican use such from other models?

Yeah its still alive and but country roads and lowerd cars really arent a sump's best friend, ive raised her up to a slightly more respectable height since tho. That would be wicked thanks!! Where are you at these days and when is good for you? Give me your postcode and i'll "google maps" ya

Its been a long time sice ive been on here but its MOT time and I have some issues. My sump has a slow leak, I am quite capable of changing it myself, I did it a year ago, and there-in lies my question, I have to fork out £65 plus vat for the sump and £35 PLUS VAT!!!! for the gasket, after 1 year how important is it that I change the gasket aswell, I know I should but is it an absoulte definate or more a "its sensible to"?? Also my ABS works intermittantly, the light is on most of the time and every now and then it goes off for a spell, I was advised that this has something to do with some kind of valve??? My knowledge of the intricacies and inner workings of ABS are limited, can anyone assist/explain/hypothosise. I know a vagcom would probs pick this up but im not paying extortion merchants VAG to do it unless I abosolutely have to. PS can anyone confirm as Im not sure, VR6 oil, 10W40 part sythetic?? Many thanks MJ

When I did mine i had to knock it into place gently with a hammer, you have to lean quite hard on the wishbone to get enough space to get the joint in position and locate it into the hub.

Yeah, i mean i understand that more air means more fuel and therefore bigger bang. I just struggle to understand how different types of air flow actually affect performance when it comes to numbers and better acceleration across the range, I for instance just bought a BMC CDA and it seems to have given me more power but it still all comes in a big lump at around 3.5 - 4k. I have heard that attaching the cold air feed helps to bring the power in lower down the rev range, whether true or false I dont know but is it the colder air or the longer inlet tract?? So many variables!!

Well I have a VR and the problem I have is that I have an RS2 Bumper to go on but the recesses for the fogs are slightly too small, I was hoping that maybe all I needed were somw early fogs but I guess this is not the case. Is it possible for a garage to play around so that they fit, the bumper is fibre glass.

Always keen to educate myself and intigued to learn how the VSR does what it does I was pleased to find this untill I read it and realised it makes very little sense to me, anyone fancy tackling this one? Lamens terms anywhere between 'makes the car go faster' and the following; (some points for clarification are highlighted) Limited by the transverse mounting of the engine, there isn't much room for generous inlet manifolding. In order to achieve a good compromise between maximum power output, and adequate torque in day to day use, the inlet manifold runs across the top of the head. This has circumvented the shortage of space and allowed the use of an oscillating-flow tuned inlet manifold. Each cylinder has its own inlet tract that is tuned to such a length as to ensure positive inlet pressure. As engine output is proportional to the airflow, this scheme means that the VR6 doesn't have to be ashamed in the face of competitors. The 2.8 litre produces 174 PS [DIN hp] and a maximum torque of 240 Nm at 4200 RPM, and the 2.9 litre engine in the Corrado achieves 245 Nm at the same engine speed. But this achievement wasn't enough to satisfy the Wolfsburg developers. To achieve even more torque, lower down in the rev range, the 6 cylinders were to breathe even more freely. The idea of the variable inlet manifold [ german "variables Saugrohr" ] was born and developed in parallel with the now standard version, with assistance from the Pierburg GmbH in Neuss, a company which has a high reputation with things relating to mixture control. The VSR [ abbreviated from the german ] system did not go into, falling victim to the red pens of accountants shortly before the VR6 started production. That this piece of motor technology was not condemned to the depths of the Wolfsburg catacombs, is thanks to the interests of Volkswagen Motorsport, based in Hannover. This VW company took the VSR and now offers it as an after- market conversion kit for 2888 Marks. The kit may be fitted to all VR6s with 2.8 and 2.9 litre engines. Even though the VSR achieves similar aims to those of the switching inlet manifold of the 2.8 litre V6s from Audi, the operating principle is different. In the Audi engine, a long, narrow inlet tract achieves high torque at low revs; 245 Nm at 3000 RPM. The maximum power is achieved using a short, wide inlet tract, producing 174 PS at 5500 RPM. For the engine to be fed through the appropriate channels, depending on engine speed, inlet manifolds are switched using six individual, vacuum operated flaps at 4000 RPM. In both stages, the technology is based purely on tuned oscillating-flow inlet manifolds, with the necessary switching. The VSR in contrast, two diverse technologies are applied. It is designed so that at low engine speeds, resonance is used to improve cylinder charging efficiency -- at higher RPM, oscillation- tuned, individual, broad tracts are used. Switching from one to the other is achived by a single flap, also vaccuum operated at 4000 RPM. The tuned inlet tract operates by the low pressure caused between the throttle valve and the inlet valve, by the suction of the descending piston, Through inertia of the air in the tract, the airflow tends to keep moving towards the inlet, even after it's closed, causing a slight over-pressure when the inlet valve next opens. This ensures high charge efficiency even during early stages of the induction stroke. Of course, further during the same stroke, inlet pressure falls followed by a high pressure but not before the inlet valve closes. In order to achieve optimal control of the oscillation and reflection of the column of air in the inlet tract, it needs to be closely coordinated with valve timing, but this is not possible due to variation in engine speedWhy not?. Even at mid-range-rpm, the valve opening and the are out of synch. The second pressure wave arrives much too early before the inlet valve closes and a backflow reduces fill efficiency. Now to achieve high torque under these conditions, resonance-fill is utilised. This is done by closing the connection flap between a small resonance chamber which is immediately before short inlet tracts above the inlet valves. This transforms the 6 cylinder ending into effectively two 3 cylinder engines with uniform firing times, and which do not have overlapping inlet strokes. Resonance pulses of up to 0.4 bar [approx 6 psi] above atmospheric are achieved, leading to remarkable fill efficiency and torque increases. Even though fitting the VSR requires not great skills, it should be undertaken by a professional with the right tools. For example, fitting the new EPROM and the new control harness requires dexterity and special tools. The new chip doesn't alter the previously-programmed behaviour of the engine management, it only adds an additional control output for the electrically- controlled, vacuum operated flap. The kit includes instructions as to complete installion, including connections to the vaccum circuit and electrical connections. Further engine modifications are not required, so one is permitted to anticipate the VSR transformation. A marked improvement in torque at mid-range is advertised with 255 Nm available at 3600 RPM on the 2.8 litre engine. This corresponds to an 11% increase at that engine speed. In the 2.9 litre incarnation, 260 Nm is available, providing more performance in the most-used rev range. There is no promise of more power in the higher RPM range. To illustrate the performance improvement in a VSR Golf, one doesn't need any test equipment! Almost right from the start, at below 3000 RPM, a new urge is sensed. Up to 4000 RPM the engine provides markedly better acceleration, yet above, the previously expected manners appear because the torque curve corresponds to that of the standard engine. Even more! After the impetuous acceleration, the switchover feels almost reserved. The steeply increasing torque curve up to 3600 RPM also shows a rapid fall back to the norm between 3600 and 4000 RPM. The torque improvement is an excellent fit to the Golf VR6. In fourth gear, the torque boost corresponds to 90 to 120 kmh, in fifth to 110 to 150 kmh. This turns the Golf into a sprinter, that none of the near-200 PS professionally tuned chariots comes near. Testign showed that acceleration from 90 to 120 kmh in fourth gear only took 5.4 seconds. The standard VR6 Golf took 6.1 seconds and a near-200 PS Oettinger VR6 Golf taking 6.4 seconds, and a Wendland special taking 6.2 seconds. No wonder because their maximum torque happens at much higher RPM. Unremarkably, the VSR trick didn't improve peak acceleration or top speed, both of these being exclusively in the higher rev range. The VR6 opens up a new field for Volkswagen Motorsport tuning. This is appropriate when one expects high torque for comfortable and sporty driving. It's even more attractive because testing showed reduced fuel consumption by half a litre [ per 100 km ]. On the other hand, the VSR offers professional tuners an innovative platform for development - as some of them have already indicated.

Are these the same or.......different

sorry its late :oops:

the flywheel weighs 60 kilos! Holy S**t! So it cant be done with the subframe in place?