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I had both my 16V and VR6 adjusted by a four wheel alignment specialist. The back's were out as well as the front and they adjusted all four. The 16V however one of the rears would not adjust exactly but was within it's tolerance. So I would say that they must be adjustable??

The Later Model Corrado has more space than the earlier model as the earlier has it's spare wheel rising higher from the boot floor. Can be a pain in the neck to get some stuff in.

I have an 89 16v with the Grey interior, I want to change to dash and evrything else to the later type with the red needles ect and black door cards, seats and carpet etc. What problems am I likely to face as I hate the white needle dash.

They do ??? I'll have a look. Cheers.

Looks Identical too mine. I have put the standard rims back on mine also as I like the std thing. But she is for sale

KE Jetronic on Rs Turbo, Bleed Valves Dump Valves Hybrid's Amal Valves Thermo Time Switches, Water Temp Sensor etc I can understand as easy as pie, I think it's just a case of the components being named differently thats baffling, I'm still in transition.

Call me stupid but I'm afraid VW's are new to me as I converted from being a Ford RS guru. (What a waste of time that was) And I now realise how crap fords are built in comparison. Will NEVER go back. The VW setup is like speaking in German (literally) to me. Can you tell me or even a pic would be good, failing that I'll buy a haynes manual for Golf 16v. Overrun Cut Off Valve? Diaphragm Pressure Switch? Throttle Valve switch? Do you mean Throttle Position Sensor? Thanks for your patience lads!

Propbably been covered a million times before but why not once more? Idle at 3000 rpm, now I know the 16V is a high revving engine but come on! Disconnect the ISV and the revs drop, switch motor off and replug ISV, startup and it's back up to 3K on idle. There is no difference whether the engine is hot or cold. Have taken off ISV had a good look inside and it's as clean as a whistle? Wiring is ok (obviously as makes a difference when detached). Tell me what I need to hear, how do I fix this annoying niggle? :x :?:

I love the look of this car and being used to the VR6 as I am to go back to the 16V I need more response the the engine. On a budget can I have some tried and tested suggestions?

How do I get ETKA?

kangarooboy, I adjusted the input rod which is attached to the brake pedal and wound it out a little to take up the excess play.

EKTA 6 ? What are you guys on about? Discs are iffy actually so will make sure the rear pistons have not been getting lazy. As far as I was concerned you removed the bearing nut/split pin/washer/ bearing race etc pull off the disc (with caliper removed) clean it, grease it "reinstallation is reversal of removal" with shiny bits!

Cheers Lads, I have bled the system and I have adjusted the servo inside the car to take up any slack. I do need new pads so I'll do that, my concern was that their are bleed nipples coming out the woodwork on these cars 2 on the ABS system as well. Having adjusted the servo their is improvement but still a little bit spongy?? Will bleed the system dry maybe and put fresh fliuid and new pads in.

Car failed MOT, they said that the brake pedal travel was to far, bled the system, undone the nipple on the Master Cylinder and that bled out immediatley, when pushing the brake pedal do get the 'hiss' from the servo, should that be silent? Any ideas as the pedal has always been like that and I have obviously got used to it??

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