GB_SEAN

Got the meter anyway so will do as many as poss tomorrow.

I just did mine in the last few weeks. Took plenty of pics. http://www.the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/album_ ... er_id=1752 My tensioners and guides were shot so I would get everything..

Now kev I am surprised, I thought you knowledge of the VR was bottomless!

I have means of getting one! Do you know the resistance by any chance, not to worry of not I have a Bentley manual.

So tight that mine would not come undone! Some gorilla must have tightened it up last time it was done!

So the black temp sender is the same resistance as the blue? Will give it a go?

VAGCOM with 2x2 connector within 50 miles of Swindon anyone have it? PM pls.

Has anyone got VAGCOM with 2x2 cable within 50 miles of Swindon?

Ok, So now I need to find someone local with VagCom 2x2 connector, The sticky is not very up to date.

Kev, I think you've answered this before on a diffrent thread. The damper on the throttle body can be adjusted so it dampers the revs slower allowing the ISV to cut in time to adjust the revs. As this hs all been off the car it sounds like this has to be the probable cause?

Dr_Mat love the terminology for these other cars... resembling Flowers and stuffing balls.... made me laugh !!!

Ok so I did the timing chain job put the thing back together, I know that when you dip the clutch the revs drop to about 500 and pick back up to 700/800 idle, but when I start it from cold it won't idle at all as it drops to low. If I drive it for 1 mile it will idle. I know I will be advise 'get it on VAG-COM' but am asking for other peoples experience of this. I don't suspect the coolant temp sensor as everything works except for idle until you drive about a mile down the road. Thanks for any help.. :mad:

Good luck with that.

Try using a bolt (10mm) to screw down and slacken off the tensioner to the belt slowly while the engine is idling to see if the noise disappears, could be a bearing from the tensioner or waterpump and by doing this will reduce the pressure on the pulleys. Make sure you don't leave the bolt in the tensioner though!

That number comes back as unknown mate?

Well worth doing, drove today for the first time and feels better instantly. Well pleased with it. Like I said before the engine sounds diffrent as well even though it was not rattling or anything. Only snag, I have a problem of it not idling when it's cold so need to investigate and sort.

I could only manage a work photo.

Part No. 1H0 973 103 B. Not sure if it is still available? It's called 'flat contact housing with gasket connecting piece wiring harness for engine' to be precise ???

Definately oil then. I can check the Bentley for you and see if it gives any indication. It shows that there is also a relief valve between the block face and cylinder head, if they got crap in it when the head was removed it may have clogged.

Had this problem before, turned out to be the wiring connection for the engine, (the big black one next to the aux water pump) disconnected it, cleaned up the terminals sprayed in WD40 and has been ok since. I hope!

What Colour is the smoke Black or white? If it's black then it's a Fuel thing. The main breather attaches to the cam cover, thats the one thats needs checking. Also the unit it connects to. I would have the oil pressure checked.

Had this problem with the VR. I didn't like to, but when I started it up and had to give the engine some beans so the alternator would kick in and start charging the battery. Otherwise same symptoms after about 10 mins when the battery would start to die. Check the connection on the back of the alternator is a good one to start...

Sounds like the head may need to come back off but I have known for blocked breather pipes to cause this sort of thing but can't believe they would have not checked after having the head off and replace stem seals and guides etc. Another possibility is that the oil pressure relief valve might be at fault. I would check the oil pressure first, should be at 29 psi at 2000 rpm and also check any pipe work for blockages.

They you go, thats extensive! I got my chains,clutch,water pump and hydraulic lifters from AVS. [web]http://www.vwspares.co.uk[/web] The rest of the stuff like the MK4 pad and tensioner bolt, chain tensioners and gaskets etc etc came from VW. I had a total Bill of around £400 after having to buy some tools as well for the job.

Before I did this job I scanned the forum for photo's like these but could not find much. I thought that other lads must looking for the same photo's so they can see what the job is like, so I went about it to hopefully provide some useful insight to what sort of a job it is on a Corrado. As for the engine bay, elbow grease and obsession. If I keep the car I will want the engine mint. Literally. (If I don't sell) Cheers for the comments, glad I could be of use. Seriously, I would suggest that anyone who is fit and able and has a decent set of spanners should give it a go as I did. Save your Money for a holiday or set of cams!!