davidwort

I bought an entire 6a audi 2L 16v for 100 quid last year, and the later ACE audi engine is basically the same as the ABF, keep a look out for MOT failure 16v audi's :)

late, drive by wire mk4 GTI and chip it, same engine and turbo as the 180 GTI AFAIK, should be good for best part of 200 bhp - money left over to sort the suspension?

switch it off with the key and remove your battery negative lead too.

Didn't realise the recall only applied to VR6's of a certain year. My C is a 1991 KR model so i guess it doesn't apply. I thought it would apply to all Corrados seeing as they fitted bypass valves to all models. no, that's a VW USA recall note, all UK 4 cylinder cars should have had the recall unless they were very late builds and had the strengthened matrix from the factory, my 1990 1.8 16v recall wasn't done until 1996 though.

oil burning, usually valve guides, head off and strip down, couple of hundred quid at least. 9a/6a good idea, just transfer all the KR bts you need onto it, straight swap block wise. do you have a spark, the metering head can stick if it's drained down from the system loosing pressure, quite likely on an old system that's sat idle a long time, crack open a banjo union on the metering head, does fuel spray out? 16v bits aren't that expensive but it all adds up gasket and headbolts, head refurb, oil, filter, coolant and anything like water flanges on the head that crack when you take everything apart.

came across one a few weeks back that had actually sheared part of the gearlever mechanism, it was really wierd to drive, sometimes it would just go into gear other times they just weren't there. I initially thought the gear selector forks in the box were bent, but it would shift from the top of the box and was OK when the car was stationary, never seen one go like that before, it must have had some abuse.

have you checked your brake fluid level?

and saloon and probably the estate, fairly rare cars though, no idea why they designed a 2.6 V6 at the same time VW designed the 2.8 VR6 though, apart from filling a bit more space under the bigger audi bonnet :shrug:

fluid change is easy on 1.8 as you probably don't have the ABS pump to worry about, just do it the same as any other conventional car, remove most of the old fluid from reservoir, fill with fresh and then bleed each caliper starting furthest away from reservoir. An easy-bleed bottle that pressurises from a tyre valve gives pretty good results, I always find that better than manual bleeding with mate on the brake pedal (about 15 quid from motor-factors?) Also worth bleeding out the line that goes from the reservoir to the clutch slave cylinder, two bleed points, one under reservoir and one on slave cylinder, they share the same fluid as the brakes. the rear discs contain the rear bearings, so you need to buy and fit a set of bearings, not that difficult to do but you really need a brake caliper wind-back tool and a hammer and punch to remove the old races from the old disk, you can then use these to hammer in the new bearings into the new disks, or alternatively a socket of the right diameter.

sounds like a break in the wiring at the door/A pillar, where it flexes all the time, PITA to get at and fix :(

There's some good you-tube vids on flick honing and all I've found are SFW :lol:

I wouldn't use wire wool in an assembled engine, or at all! I'd take it apart and flick hone the bores, you know it's good then.

yep, some of the owners, there's some really neglected ones about, do a background check on the owners :lol: but seriously, if the seller has a box full of receipts, a record of servicing and is knowledgeable about the car and it's history that will help you a lot.

mm, FVS is the box code and the number indicates a 2001 box, it's not a golf mk4 one though. mk4's have an FBS, FBX, FBK, FBV 6 speed is DRW ERR EFF ah, a 2WD TT 5sp box is EVS, could it be that?

from what I remember you need to unplug the temp sensor connector on the metering head, the pressure regulator one and possibly the lambda too to get the ECU to ignore all sender inputs and run in get-you-home mode (average values fopr everything). I've said this before on another thread, a few years back there was a 9A at stealth on a RR day, it was not idling and running rough, he was suspect of a pattern lambda and it took unplugging both connectors on the metering head to get it to run OK - Vinces tip. I know the 9A ECU is pretty basic for trouble shooting but I'd imagine if the fault is still present then VAG COM or similar should pick it up.

well it's an 02J, as they are later items than the 02A although share 02A parts, hence the numbers with 02A on. What size are the drive flanges? - probably mk4 bigger 110mm ones (100mm on Corrado/mk3)

good point, and the differential pressure regulator (electronic version of the KR's warm up regulator) is on the rhs of the airbox with it's elec connector above the gap between the alternator/engine and the inner wing - water sprays up and ...?

I think someone posted up a pic last year, can't remember the thread myself though.

came across this issue myself, I think the bearing needs pressing out, probably a good time to get an engineering shop to put new bearings in it anyway, while it's in bits.

Mr Haynes says: disconnect wiring plug from output of coil connect diode tester between pins 2 and 3 on plug spin engine on starter, check LED flashes - shows hall working OK if no output disconnect hall sender plug, with voltmeter between outer terminals on plug, with ignition on should read at least 9V reconnect plug, pull back boot to expose terminals connect diode tester between plug middle terminal and batt +ve spin engine on starter, check LED flashes, no output then hall sender or ECU is FuBARed :(

no MAF or crank pos sensor on 9A so you can discount those :) re-reading what you said it does sound more ignition related, I wonder if the ignition timing has been affected by water in the electrics somewhere, none of the ignition related electrics is low down in the bay, would be interesting to see what ignition advance it is giving when it starts up, does Eric have an advance adjustable timing light? Almost like the hall sender is bust.

shows u wot gear you're in.

yeah, as above, the main pump and pressure accumulator is under the car Jim nearest the driver's side and near the rear axle, I don't think it would have taken kindly to a swimming trip. They should be pretty well watertight (the electrical connections that is) but who knows what it's like under there, mine was a rusty mess until I did the filter and changed a load of the mounting parts. Perhaps if it gets a chance to fully dry out it will be OK, but there could be trapped water, worth having a nose under there and following the power feed to it, can't remember how it connects, but I'd imagine there is a connector block of somekind under there, probably with water trapped in it. The other good reason for not going into any water of more than an inch or two is the CAT, they really don't like being taken from hundreds of degrees down to zero in a few seconds by plunging into water, but I don't think that will be what's happened.

just beat you to it :) the washers are Part no. N 013 807 6 sealing washer A8x11.5mm

yep, alloy washers that will be whitish in colour, just gently crack open the joint/banjo bolt with a rag around to collect the fuel that leaks out, unscrew bolt and refit with the two new washers, I probably wouldn't do it on a hot engine and would disconnect the battery just to be safe (fuel + sparks = :onfire: )