davidwort

those fuel lines down by the pump do corrode badly, It's unlikely the garages fault, but I'd have thought if one of the lines was close to failing just the process of inspecting everything could push one over the edge. I'd have thought the ignition switch would have given a few problems before this, they tend to give notice with occasional failures to turn the starter or a bit of 'wiggling' needed with the key, easy enough to check, whip the cowelling off and test the pins with a multimeter to make sure it's completing the circuits when the key is turned.

I looked into this years ago when new headlights were almost 200 quid from VW, unfortunately the chrome plating of plastic as a one off item was very expensive, and that's if you can even find a firm that would do it. There is a product called 'MirraChrome Sprayable Chrome Paint' distributed by Autopaint International, which has retailers across the UK, not sure how much it is though, the distributor's website isn't working. Max power article about it

you might find just nipping them up a bit more fixes it, although you're supposed to replace those washers each time, they can be reused as they crush to seal when tightening up, so you might even save the 20p :lol: - having said that I think I'd spend the money rather than have a fuel mist spraying around under my bonnet!

a set will always sell, even if they're scruffy and without centre caps, always someone who will stick them on a golf, I've seen them go from 40 to 200 quid depending on condition.

if it's from around one of the fixing bolts then you need to order a new paper/fibre gasket, but it shouldn't spray fuel from here as that's simply the injector to manifold seal. if it's from the fuel pipe banjo fitting you need a couple of new soft alloy washers, yes, the system retains some pressure after the engine is switched off, but a small rag is enough to catch it all when you crack the union open.

no, but perhaps your immobiliser stops the pump as well as ignition.

the inner ones are a pain, but I eventually discovered a small G clamp was just right for clamping down the bracket on the new bush so I could get the bolt lined up and screwed back in. I used new rubber ones on my valver, which are fine and transfer as little vibration as possible to the subframe, but I don't think the poly ones are particularly problematic.

It does sound like it, the car was a perfectly good black 1.8 16v, it had a 2L TSR engine conversion and then it got the bodykit and an orange respray :pukeright: It does look a lot better repainted now though.

remove the horn push and short the earth wire to the metal of the wheel/boss, just to make sure it's not simply a poor connection to earth for the horn push itself, if that still doesn't work, check fuses as the next step.

:lol: glad I'm not the only one, it started off sort of OK, then I thought the server glitches had had a go :scratch: I said this last year, VW wait 20 years then launch their next coupe into another recession :roll:

^^ :scratch:

my passenger door is a bit like this, it stalls and if I unbolt the motor slightly from the rest of the regulator it will run OK again for weeks, then just stop again, got a new one to go in, but I'm not exactly needing the passenger window down at the moment so it can wait :)

You'll need to speak to someone at the GSF counter I think and possibly go through a catalogue, the bearings are essentially the same as any other 1.8/2L block but I would advise on buying components like this from VW, even though you'll be looking a 4 times the price. I have used GSF big end shells on an old 1.5 block (just to keep it going a few more years) but there's been a few horror stories of people using pattern bearings on more high performance engines. Whatever you do, DO NOT TOUCH the one piece bearing and thrust washer things GSF sometimes sell, they will destroy your engine, just have a search on Club GTI! The genuine main bearings have a sequence of grooves too that equalise the pressure along the crank, some pattern ones don't appear correct in this aspect. VW bearings for 1.8/2L 16v, 8v and G60 are: bearing-shells.gif[/attachment:2al7b9tr]

So are you registering it in the UK? If so, a post March 2001 car is going to be higher road tax than a pre march 2001 car, as that's when the new CO2 bands came in, in theory that should make the slightly later cars cheaper to buy.

it depends on how well it's done, but generally a reasonable gas-flow, port and polish should give somewhere around 10-15% gains at the top end on a 16v head, the whole rev range should benefit but it will gain progressively more up the rev range. I've found the car (once properly set up) is slightly more fuel efficient, the power delivery is nice an smooth and it will pull very strongly pretty much up to the red line, even on stock KR cams. The downside is cost/benefit, there's a lot of work on a 16v head, so it's not cheap and compared to chipping a 1.8T it looks very expensive per bhp gained. I've been fortunate to have my car rolling roaded enough times to compare the 1.8, 2.0 and flowed head on different rollers and my current setup is a good 20% more torque and even more on the power side over the standard 1.8. If you can believe the figures that's about 150lb/ft and 175bhp from a valver on KR cams which is enough to keep up with the traffic :)

It's beyond my limited engine knowledge I'm afraid, I guess you really want someone like Vince from Stealth who's built many 16v engines, I'd Imagine he knows the ins and outs of part compatability, whenever I've been up to Stealth for rolling road days there's always a few 16v blocks kicking around :) I do remember being told only to use VW stem seals though, as they use the best material, compared to some pattern parts.

somewhere on here there's several old threads about doing this job, have a go with the search, I'm sure it's all there, just can't remember right now. You need to drop the window slightly to remove the bolts fixing the glass to the regulator, this might require unbolting the motor from the mech slightly if the motor is jammed. and yes, the reg needs drilling out and re-rivetting.

from what I can see on ETKA (9A/KR and ABF) : stem seal same split cotter diff top spring disc diff outer spring same inner spring same lower spring disc same ex valve ABF 97.95mm ex valve 9A 98.2mm there are some cross over parts on late 9A heads, with a different ex valve again 98.2mm but the same split cotter and top spring disc as ABF interestingly the late 9A shares the same part number inlet valve (95.5mm) with the ABF HTH.

looks good, reminds me of when I first picked my 'worked' head up from the place that flowed it, very similar looking work done on the inlets, I spent ages staring at it from every angle (valves were out obviously), fascinating. I've seen a fair few 16v heads just opened up far too much on the inlets which apparently ruins torque, they do respond quite well to careful headwork though.

excellent! be sure to take loads of pics, always good to follow work people are doing, a few of us on here have had valvers totally in pieces, so you should get some helpful comments and advice :)

191 is a mk2 golf part, and these covers are listed for 1990-1992 G60's, GTI's and 16v's. Anyone know what the 'otto' engine is though??? I've seen similar parts on SEATs with 8v engines (definitely with aircon), which should be very similar.

a mk2 GTI or 16v axle is the same number as the early 16v and G60 Corrado, VR6 ones are mk3 parts and the late 8v, 16v and G60 cars seem to have another number, presumably something to do with when they changed to the large 70L fuel tank.

the golf2 16v/jetta and passat 16v as well as the Corrado 1.8 and 2L 16v all use essentially the same manifold, with the 9A cars using a different shorter downpipe with no integral silencer as they use KE jetronic with lambda needing a probe fitment (as mentioned), they also have a cat instead of the integral silencer. but don't discount porting and polishing a standard 16v cast iron exhaust manifold, that can give good results and you are assured of no heat/noise/cracking problems associated with some stainless all in one downpipe and manifolds.

has the level in the reservoir gone down? trace the hoses from the pump to reservoir and pump to rack, any signs of leaks? any leaking from around the rack itself?, bear in mind they can leak into the rubber boots on the rack. The pressure relief valve inside the pump can stick, worth removing the pressure hose (one that goes directly to rack) and then removing the valve under that, which goes down inside the body of the pump, they are in a couple of parts with a spring between and one part has a tiny gauze filter in it, clean and inspect and feel inside the drilling in the body of the pump, they can get scored.

I think he wrote crardo, which is exactly as he pronounces it :)