davidwort

I'd have thought the 84 is too low, the thermostat is only just opened up at this temp so unless you live in death valley and have a lower temp stat the 95/104 will be fine. what's the part no. of the low temp one, it may be from a different VW, AFAIK the only reason part no.s changed on the Corrados was where the loom and connector block type changed.

my personal favourite :D before and after plots from Stealth when they set up the fuelling a couple of years back for my flowed head. 127-2747_1024img.jpg[/attachment:100l9kyp] if you compare it with the other cars run at stealth the torque at just over 2,000rpm is 25-30 lb/ft more than the aftermarket cammed cars.

If you have a KR inlet, fit that, no known issues with that combination when running a CAT on a 9A and it will feel livlier over 4000 rpm. Swapping to a pair of ABF cams will probably not make much difference over that due to their different combination of lift and duration. What we don't know is how an engine would behave on a KR exhaust and an ABF inlet, it's possible the increased overlap would cause problems for a CAT equipped car. Stick with the 42mm inlet. :)

yeah, it would look the same, it's the head internals that are modified, the 4 branch just gives a little more power at the top end and works well with a flowed head and hotter cams, the rest of the exhaust system is not too restrictive so there's not much to be gained from changing that.

just being pedantic, but the H4's are dual filament, dip and main beam, the H3's in the main headlight unit are spots. and yes, the phillips extreme work pretty well, but you'll get the most benefit from them if they have a direct feed from the battery via a relay and not just using the old standard loom.

I thought the 288's used a banjo fitting of hose, I know the 256's don't not sure about the 280's, thought they were the same as the 256s.

what is it with coil packs, they seem such a weak link in the system, whether they're the multi output packs like on the VR or the single spark plug mounted ones, my mk4 has got through 2 in five years ,and not the type that VW recalled, wheras I've never had an old style ignition coil ever give up and my valver is 18 years old and still only on it's second ever set of leads. I thought coil packs were supposed to improve the reliability of the ignition system :shrug: I suppose it saves the huge effort and complex procedure of slotting on a new rotor arm and dizzy cap every now and then :lol:

Makes sense that the car came from Scotts, they were the licensed franchise for Oettinger and the only other tuner other than GTI Engineering that VW honoured warranties on modified engines. I believe Oettinger offered a similar range of engine conversions to GTI, so an H plate 1.8 16v Corrado would have been available as a new car with work already done to the engine including 2L coversions, gasflowed heads, aftermarket cams and non standard manifolds and downpipes.

let us know how you get on setting(tensionning) that beam up with the mounting brakets/bushes, mine wasn't done with the correct leveraging process and I still don't understand exactly how it should be done :)

I guess it makes sense that part of the piston is never used in normal braking, when bleeding the brakes with a bleed point open the pedal goes to the floor, far further than it would with a sealed system. I can't picture all the bits that make up the master cylinder/servo in fact I don't think I've ever seen opne totally in bits, only ever changed a non servo one on a polo. I'm converted to using ez-bleed pressurised bottles now, so much better than pumping the pedal and shouting instructions :lol:

well my passat haynes manual doesn't mention a sequence and I've never used a particular sequence and I've done both standard gaskets and windage trays with the integral seal and never had any problems.

they're only piddly little bolts, very low torque so I can't see a torquing sequence is needed, probably best to very gently tighten with threadlock, especially on the windage tray that has an integral rubber seal as the sump gasket. If you have a very low range torque wrench then that would be good.

yeah pretty much :lol: it does get thrown about sometimes :) I reckon rear bearings are some of the worst fitted VW bits, very few mechanics let alone DIYers fit them carefully or properly, myself probably included, particularly the tightening up. They seem to need tightening and slackening a few times before finally setting the nut, perhaps I've been lucky with the pattern ones supplied from GSF but I've had no problems with their rear bearings, they always seem to last the life of the disks, but I do check them from time to time to make sure there's not too much or too little play.

my old polo had an 'involving drive' which 'involved' fighting to get it round corners, fighting to keep it in a straight line and fighting to make it both stop and go :lol: Oh, and back on topic, does sound like rack valves, worth doing a couple of fluid changes to see if it improves at all, then I'd say you're looking at a couple of hours labour and as said, IRO 200 quid for a recon rack or up to about 50 for a S/H one.

just done my front bearings at 165,000 and 18 years, which didn't seem too bad :) neither had to be done, they had no play in them but with the hubs off the car they were a little noisy, the new ones were genuine VAG (needless to say) and about 21 quid each with 10% or so trade discount. Oh, and for the last at least 14 years it's been on eibach springs, so lowered, and harder dampers.

pm'd this to you, then thought it may as well go in the thread: no, what I meant was the GL4/5 spec isn't on any of the VW fluids, they use their own system G50/51/52 etc... The 'other' oil I have heard of from VW was specced for TT's and other 6 speed boxes to quieten down spider gears or something, I think they just tweaked the synthetic spec a bit to suit a certain range of boxes where customers had complained of noises. In an 020 box the mineral oil most vag parts depts stock should be fine, the '726' part no. (it superceeds the G50 spec which was for 020 boxes I think anyway), but I tried that first as it was only 4 quid a litre when I needed some and later when the fully synthetic one came in I changed my 02A box to that, it worked out at about 24 quid with trade discount but definately improved the shift when cold, it also improved the sticking in reverse I occasionally got. I thought you had redline mt90 in your G60 02A box, I'd have thought this or the VW synthetic I have would be fine in the 020. I know my dad put the VW fully synthetic in his old-old shape '87 passat and that improved cold shifting too.

G052 726 A2 was the standard gear oil (2007 ish) G052 171 A2 was the synthetic last time I ordered some I think the A2 stands for 1 Litre these two superceeded the old G50 and G51 codes There have been some revisions (new part numbers) for oils to fix noise problems in some of the late 6 speed boxes but I don't have the part numbers for those I've used both of the numbers listed at the top in an 02A box and the 726 was fine, but the 171 fully syth was a definite improvement with a cold gearbox. Oh, and the GL4/5 thing seems to mean nothing to VW.

an easy-bleed bottle that attaches to a tyre valve is easy to use and gets great results, I wish I'd bought one years ago, and it makes it a one man job, as opposed to one man and wife which she always moaned about :lol: don't ever remove all the fluid, you risk air problems which are a major headache in an ABS system. remove what you can from the reservoir first, add some fresh to the reservoir, then do one wheel at a time topping up the easy-bleed bottle as you go. A litre should be enough, but if you're doing a complete change and flushing through well, then a couple will be needed.

that would be very interesting, I've always understood it's expensive to get one of items done, but other than the glass it's the only bit of the light units that fails and would be very handy if they could be refurbed for a reasonable price.

same as brakes, just do slave cylinder bleed point first as it's furthest away from master. No special tricks but it's as well to do now and then to keep the fluid fresh.

so let me get this right the rear plastic and reflector as same on both late and early?...... :scratch: bob yep, for the facelift cars the grille was moved forward about 1cm to make it more flush with the bonnet and wing leading edges, the headlights were given a deeper glass and plastic trim surround to bring the light out flush with the new grille, no reason to change the reflectors or light units, so they didn't. You often see early cars with early lights and retro-fitted late grilles, the grilles stick out from the lights :)

yep, only lenses and trim are different.

so how do the spice rack and baking tray assortment work with that then? :lol:

I've no doubt a press like that would come in handy if you've got space for it but in nearly 20 years I've only had to have 3 front wheel bearings done and if you take the hub off the car then it usually only costs 15-20 quid to get someone to press a bearing in for you. rear VW disk bearing races don't need a press and I've done axle bushes with a home made puller (a few nuts and washers on a big-arse bolt,. So I don't really think at 100 quid or so, a big press is really going to pay for itself, just my 2p

I'd say yes, can't see you should ever put new valves or guides in without lapping them in.