davidwort

if you look closely nr you carbon canister hole you'll see 'hecho en mexico' on your corrado...

makes me laugh how a mk1 (which you can get panels, engine and running gear for cheaply) is described as a money pit, when a large number of people on here own VR6 Corrados.

definately not if you have hook type hangers on the G60. Possibly, if you have bar hangers.

long gone, but not forgotten... sigh... :( jetta1.jpg[/attachment:1sdrn1zf]

great read, looking forward to September even more now :D

It all 'happens' in the 1.8 16v at around 4000rpm, if the engine is well maintained and in a good state of tune it should pull strongly to the red-line. best thing to do is the cheapest and easiest stuff first. New distributor cap, rotor arm, spark plugs and air filter. You can do a basic check of the plugs leads by checking their resistance and condition of the ends, replace if suspect like any car. Next check the ignition and engine timing is correct and 1.8's should really be run on super unleaded fuel as they were designed to run on 98 4-star and can pink badly on 95. It's possible that the fuel filter could do with changing and it's a good idea to check the spray pattern of the injectors and if possible the fuel pressures and CO. The 16v like a good quality standard exhaust system and an old coked up silencer, possibly with damaged internals can sap the power as can some of the cheaper 'performance' exhausts. An old 16v set up on a rolling road can give quite healthy figures, so for an hours or so rolling road time 50-100 quid that can be a good investment, but do all the basic service stuff first so it stands a chance of being tuned up to it's full potential. Oh, and the 1.8 Si and GTI escorts I've driven are fairly nippy things with a good torque spread, they're no doubt lighter than the Corrado too so don't expect to beat one from the lights.

alfa-sud or something. have to disagree about the mk1, it's easy to compare an early 70's design of car to what we expect today, but try comparing to other manufacturers offerings of the day, Vauxhall Chevette anyone?

it would be good to get some 9A hose pics to compare, it seems the late KR engines share the same part numbers but earlier one have some different items, not sure how/why they differ though: 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfhoses.gif[/attachment:4hrgi5f4] samcos2.jpg[/attachment:4hrgi5f4]

I did it recently, top tip, take a bunch of photos of where everything is routed to refer to later, I swapped out a whole mechanism and bar a bit of fiddling and jiggling to get the wiper motor out first it's all pretty easy, use a good sharp new phillips screwdriver on the bolts that hold the spoiler support seals on the outside of the tailgate on, mine were way tight.

you're left with a length of straight hose and a horse-shoe shaped hose, I'm not sure what they are intended to replace on the mk2 golf but I think one is for the header tank to metal water pipe, neither can be for the heater matrix inlet as that requires a larger bore for the head outlet flange than the spare hoses provide. the pic I posted ages ago in this thread shows the VAG and samcos side by side, to replace all the water hoses you'll need to buy a reducing elbow and various bends and lengths of separate hoses to make up the two matrix hoses, the header tank to pipe hose and the expansion hose from rad to tank.

I'd suggest steering clear of the GSF ones, they're adequate but not as efficient or well made as the Denso-Marsden ones VW supply, ECP may well supply an equivalent to the VW one, not actually seen one but they at least stock a 16v specific part unlike GSF, expect to pay around 50 quid for a cheap pattern one (like GSF's) 70-90 quid for a ECP or other factors 16v pattern part and about 120 for a genuine VW one. You might want to get a couple of the rubber o ring mounts that press on the bottom of the rad (x2) the old ones are probably split and perished and only a few pence from VW. my GSF/VW rad comparison

drain water from bottom hose remove plastic top cover remove fan and cowling (4 bolts) undo 2 mounting bolts/brakets from the top of the slam panel remove front grille and undo the 4 bolts/screws that connect the rad to the side air deflectors (couple are a pain to reach) lift rad out you could probably remove the rad with the side pieces connected but there's a couple of self tapping screws and metal tab clip things holding the bottom of each down to the front cross member put new rad in, connect everything back up refill very slowly from header tank etc..

slide the tank off it's bracket, get a pair of adjustable pivot jaw plier/wrench things, put a bit of rag around the sides of the bracket to prevent damaging the paint and squeeze it together a bit. you can then sit the rectangular reservoir a bit higher in it's bracket and the shift weight clears, I can't see any reason why having the tank slightly higher 10-20mm should make any difference to the supply of fluid or it's level. Beats changing all the hoses and tank over from a later car.

you must be loosing it somewhere, it's either going into the cylinders (via headgasket problem) and out of the exhaust (white smoke) or into the oil, headgasket or oil cooler or leaking from the rad, a hose or the expansion tank does it warm up from cold correctly, i.e. 10 mins of idling then the stat opens and the bottom water hose to the rad gets hot? if not the stat could be jammed shut, it's could be the stat or the rad fan/rad fan switch on the rad that is causing over heating, if it heats up in traffic it's usually the fan and/or the fan switch.

copper is better than the sprung steel ones GSF seem to have on theirs, it may be fine, but I had trouble on mine, just an annoying small amount of weeping with the metal washer

you can get PS fluid from GSF FEBI stuff in 1L plastic bottles, it's the green type of fluid, basically LHM citroen hydraulic suspension fluid, as long as you buy green stuff and not red ATF fluid, it should be fine. the hose clips can be removed with a pair of mole grips or one of those adjustable jaw plier things.

sounds like a good idea rears are very easy to check, as they can be spun to listen for droning, they tend to groan when turning one way or the other and you can feel the play by rocking the wheel (they should have a small amount of play when correctly adjusted) or even take them apart to inspect the races and bearings for pitting. fronts are a pain as it's hard to tell which side is shot even if they make a terrible noise and even then it can be hard to spot the pitting when broken apart (of course they are knackered once removed and broken apart), It's a case of change both fronts and hope the old ones had some play/wear in them to have made it worth it.

I think there's a black/red wire on the coil that you can disconnect so the ECU doesn't interfere with setting the base timing at idle, but TBH if the engine is warm it doesn't seem to make any difference for me.

there's no way in the world that the grease that should have been partly packed into the dust cap would disappear, even if the thing went up in smoke, I'm no phorensic engineer either, but one of a few things can happen: 1) a faulty bearing breaks up, in which case it would make a mess but there would be plenty of grease everywhere still 2) an over tightened bearing breaks up after over heating, much the same as 1) 3) a dry bearing over heated and broke up, mess as shown in photo and no grease to be seen 4) a dry bearing is also over tightened, same as 3 but breaks even quicker

I've done this a fair few times on valvers now and there's a few things to be aware of. firstly, it's better to get a fibre mk2 golf rad switch washer from VW (part no. N 043 808 3 about a quid) as they tend to seal better than the metal washer the new switches sometimes come with, it has to seal against the plastic of the radiator and the metal washers just don't have enough give. I'd drain the water into a pan/bucket and see how much sludge/dirty water comes out, if it's pretty mucky then it's an idea to drain it fully, for this you need to remove the power steering pump bracket mounted to the bottom of the engine block and remove the plastic elbow and thermostat from the water pump, otherwise loads of coolant will stay in the block as the thermostat will be shut stopping the flow. You could remove another water hose at the front of the block but a) they're poretty inaccessible and b) you probably leave some water in the pump and block this way. You might as well change the thermostat while you're at it(and o ring seal) only a few quid and genuine VAG is a good plan. I'd then put it all back together, fill with tap water, run until hot (in fact you could leave the stat out to do this) and then drain it all down again. then fit the new stat, and refill the coolant with 50/50 or 60/40 distilled water(battery top up water - halfords?) and antifeeze. When you re-fill you need to do it very slowly from the header tank, this way you're least likely to get an air lock in the head, a 2L coke bottle with a hole drilled in the cap can do this for you! rather than getting aching arms. From dry the system needs 6.5 Litres of coolant in total. you don't need to have the heater on in the car as there is no valve in the system, hot water always runs through the cabin heater matrix, the heating control is just done with air flaps. This all sounds a bit involved but will get everything cleanest, however you could just drain what you can from the bottom rad hose and then top back up, run till the stat opens and then drain again, at least you'll get it cleaner than it was even if you don't flush it perfectly.

That's a load of rubbish about parts supplied by you, they're just trying to get out of paying for anything basically, depends on how far you want to take it, I'd say you have enough evidence for a small claims court job here. A new stub axle, bearing, tyre etc would only cost them a couple of hundred quid, sometimes garages just have to accept that sort of mistake and absorb the cost, well I know from the trade that they do. As it's a safety related failure too I would have expected them to go out of their way to fix you up and keep you quiet. Like cheesewire said, that's a classic case of a trainee not having a clue what he was doing with that type of bearing, or someone getting distracted and having a mental block and forgetting to do parts of the job. That type of bearing must have been fitted literally millions of times to UK cars, they're not exactly a peculiar design, of course they're going to say they 'did grease it'.

no it's not fluid, the cv boots can split and will then fling thick cv grease all around the place, but sometimes after years the grease just goes hard inside a sealed boot, sometimes cleaning and regreasing can extend the life and improve clicking, clunking and various noises.

sounds more like a CV joint then, the outers are usually the ones that go, I'd pull back the boots clean all the CV grease out and inspect, pack with fresh CV grease and see if it improves at all.

now I'm getting confused! for engine timing, everything should align to the TDC marks, - intercam 'O' marks face each other (can only see with cam cover off) - exhaust cam timing belt pulley marks, inner one lies flat level with top of head, outer one with arrow/triangle on cam cover arch - bottom timing belt/crank pulley mark shold align with plastic timing cover arrow distributor rotor arm align with mark on distributor body mark 'O' with arrow 'v' casting on bell housing your cambelt pulley marks, when aligned, should mean your flywheel mark aligns, unless the top or bottom pulley has sheared it's keyway. thinking about it again, perhaps there's been a confusion with the 'timing' mark on the flywheel and all the other marks that are TDC.

hang on, that cam pulley pic shows the pulley mark past TDC not before, are you going the wrong way?