davidwort

I'm not totally sure, the mk 2 golf 16v had a separate idle control box, but the corrado one may be in the main ignition ECU box, I'll have a look on ETKA at some point.

flatter intake cam, lower red line and taller gearing, it is definitely more torquey though, much flatter torque curve and all low down and mid range. On the subject of Corrado engines, it seems to me they are all pretty well engineered and the bad press each gets is usually down to the first components to suffer from neglect.

England is now the most heavily populated per sq km in Europe, apart from Malta apparently (pop. only 400K), we've just exceeded the Netherlands too. At last I saw an article yesterday suggesting that population density in England is affecting quality of life and we should control the population to prevent matters getting worse. Don't get me wrong, there's a lot I like about this country and always enjoying coming home from abroad (apart from the summer weather), but you can't just keep adding a million or so to the head count every year on a small island and not have some related social problems.

smart man, if you hadn't, somone would have hack-sawed the CAT off it by now anyway and it would be costing you even more.

looks good on those, are you sure the offset is right though? :scratch:

I think you need to buy a Kia Ceed Jim :lol: Proof of the pudding etc, the Scirocco will be mainly company car buys and for 20K it's got to be either really eye catching, 'aspirational' or be very practical and get good reviews (golf GTI hits most of this), there's a lot of options on co. car lists at this price and I'm not even sure the Scirocco will make may of the lists.

I don't think the connectors are even the same, and the 1990 will probably have a mechanical speedo drive.

It's not pretty no, and although it grew on me a bit over several days of seeing it, once the mk6 golf is common on the roads I don't think it will even have much of an individual feel. I'm sure the engine and running gear are up to the job but something makes me think they won't sell that well in the long (or even medium) term and I'll place a 'sportsman's bet' they won't be in production nearly as long as the Corrado. Considering the Corrado was so much mk2 engineering they (VW) made such a unique car, but the accountants have seen to that with the new scirocco.

I was saying the other day, it's not the first time VW have launched a new sports coupe into a recession, they have really bad timing.

Oh great, so how can I tell if they're actually shot, my front TA inserts seem to make a fair bit of that sort of noise, but seem to have been like that as long as I can remember, they must be 4 or five years old now, I just assumed it was the gas dampers that sounded like that as the previous boge's were always noisy too.

I found a whacking great roll of black sticky plastic in my garage, so I've cut some out of that, I'll bring some already cut with me toad, and a foot of the roll of stuff for anyone else if they've forgotten. It seems to be good stuff as far as sticking and not letting the light through goes, I've got a feeling it was a roll of plastic that a machine cuts out lettering for signs from, I refuse to pay what Halfords are asking for the stuff!

OK, Instruction manual has me a little confused, they seem to have flipped a LHD photo (mirror image) to show the headlight masks but the lense pattern is different on true RHD cars lenses. The pic below shows the masks, this is the flipped LHD image I reckon Img_4189_2.jpg[/attachment:2uu728yg] the actual RHD lense has a smaller shape embossed on the glass, basically the same as the outer shape in the manual pic, I've outlined the manuals outer shape on the left and the actual RHD shape on my glass on the right of the pic below: 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfImg_4189.jpg[/attachment:2uu728yg] I'm sure it doesn't matter a whole lot as long as the beam towards oncoming traffic is masked, but should I continue the mask down to the bottom of the lense as in the wrong reversed pic in the manual, or actually follow the mask lines on my lenses?

I'm not over impressed so far, but I haven't seen one really close up. I do find new VW's tend to be 'growers' looks wise though, both the mk4 and 5 were for me. There seems to be some odd control of models at VAG, I was talking to a friend who works for Skoda UK and he says new Skoda versions are often vetoed by VAG management to supposedly prevent the shift of customers down the brands, i.e. pinching VW sales and I dare say it happens with Audi too, they can't make the Scirocco too good or it'll poach TT sales. As for large capacity V6's, it looks like their days are numbered for mid size cars, so many manufacturers seem to be leaning towards forced induction and smaller capacities to keep within CO2 bands.

can't help on the main details of your post, but perhaps it would be an idea to have a separate pair of relays for your fans power supply and use the existing feeds as just the switching?

well done mate :D you've put a lot into that car remember when it looked like this? bally-orig-1024.jpg[/attachment:261ecozd]

providing none of your brake bleed nipples are siezed its only going to take 15-20 minutes at most, particularly with a pressure bleeder, it's literally: fill the bleeder reservoir with fresh fluid, screw it's connector to the top of your reservoir, connect up the air line to a tyre valve and crack off each of the bleed points in turn for a few seconds, job done. It's a good idea to bleed a small amount of fluid out every year, not a full change but just a small amount from each wheel as any water aborbed into the fluid tends to collect at the low points in the system, i.e. your calipers!

did you remove fluid from the reservoir when you pushed the pistons back to accomodate the new pad and disc thickness?, I guess it's possible you got some air in the system somehow, a partial fluid change/bleed should sort it, they'll also take a few hundred miles to bed in properly. I've always manually bled with a 'helper' pressing the pedal, but I used a pressure bleeder connected to a spare tyre valve and those things are great, much less chance of running out of fluid when bleeding and so easy on your own to do the job, only about 15 quid IIRC. It's also possible the backing coating on the new pads means the pad friction surface isn't perfectly flat on the disc surface, again this should sort itself out with some heavy braking and a few miles on them.

The Corrado dash might not be great by modern standards but the mark 3 one is pretty dull, I think if I was going to all that trouble I'd do a mk4 or TT one, at least you get to look at some nicer materials at the end of all that effort.

whatever happened to that Corrado with the golf mk4 front lights and Ibiza rears?, all the bodywork had been cut, welded and shaped to fit the units, must have been loads of work, saw it in Milton Keynes a few years ago, non-factory metallic green possibly, can't remember.

is that the price for a WUR? wouldn't surprise me, but they are pretty reliable generally and a second hand one would probably do fine.

the KR CSV is specific to the KR engine, which you'll find in golf/jetta mk2 16v's, passats and corrados. I don't think it's your CSV, they're only used to give a burst of fuel for starting and possibly full throttle, they're pretty crude as they simply squirt fuel into all four manifold runners at the same time, it should run fine without one connected at all really. It's more likely you have a dodgy Warm Up Regulator which I think you can do a basic test on with a multimeter to test resistance across it's electrical connections. Failing that he needs to do a full fuel system pressure check which means conecting up a pressure meter to the metering head etc with the correct fittings. Other things to check are injectors for leakage and spray pattern and the usual vacuum leaks that can be anywhere in the inlet system, vac lines, gaskets, rubber boots on main inlet etc. although I'd expect that t ousual cause idling problems when warmed up too.

well, firstly that is a cold start valve but mk3's don't have them regardless of engine, lol and secondly are you sure yours is bust? and thirdly, I've got a 2L one you can have for a fiver plus a couple of quid postage, but like I said, although they look identical, I've no idea what's different between the 1.8 and 2L parts, I would try it on my engine but I think the paper gasket would fall to bits.

They look the same (I've got a KR one on my 1990 16v and a spare audi 80 one (2L 16v same as 9a one) and I'd imagine the 2L one just sprays a bit more fuel. As I have 2L block but with a KR head and injection system I'd say the KR one works fine on a 2L, but I'm not sure if the KE-jet system on the 9A runs at slightly different fuel pressures or how that might affect the electronically controlled valve. BTW, no mk3 uses K-jet so won't have a cold start injector.

wander into a scrappy and prise one of a mk3

KR 067 906 171 9A 026 906 171A