davidwort

the corrado 16v subframe has horse shoe shaped locators for the rear bushing on the wishbone, the golf one will probably require the metal sleeves for the mounting bolt that goes through the bush. AVS have them one their website for a pic, otherwise the VW dealers, not sure GSF stock them.

it should be fine, G12+ is safe to mix with anything else, the stuff that's in your car is probably prefectly OK, most coolants are safe for engines with a mixture of cast iron and alloys, the main advantage of the VW stuff is it's corrosion inhibitors don't deteriorate after a couple of years like the old blue/green stuff. I'd still do what steve says though and refill with plain tap water, and run till the rad fan comes on, then you know the thermostat has opened and the radiator has been well flushed round too.

like I said, the part number above is what you want between bracket and heat exchanger, it's about 6cm in diameter.

I think he means housing to heat exchanger, not housing to block, that would be a rubber o-ring, part no. 038 117 070A

both the early and late corrado switches are Corrado specific, but the mk2 golf switch will work, it just has no illumination for sidelights and the switch front is different. IIRC the early and late C switches are basically identical again, but the cover is redesigned to match the later switchgear better. They didn't bother with the spoiler switch though, that's the early design on all cars.

and take the stuff in your car before someone nicks your wheels :lol:

That's a really tricky one, no two rolling roads or even rolling road days are the same and most modded cars will have more than one modification from 'stock' to confuse things, then you've got to add suspension geometry, tyres... the list goes on as to what can affect recorded output. But, for starters I can tell you I had a RR plot from AMD of my car from the previous owner as a bog standard 1.8 16v with about 30,000 on the clock and 4 years old, the magical sums made the Crank bhp 148 but the road value was 109bhp which seemed pretty spot on to me. A 2 litre block and flowed head upped that to about 130bhp At The Wheels, which gives you a pretty accurate figure for what to expect from a bit of headwork and a slightly bigger capacity on a 16v. It would be interesting to see what people have for ATW figures across the engines, these don't get banded about much generally. The old Performance VW mag used to have RR shootouts and only print ATW figures which was good as you often got 20 odd cars some modded, some not, to compare. I wonder if we can get a single graph with all the cars on from Vince from the RR day at Stealth coming up?

bin it I'd say, wouldn't want a repair breaking and the rack coming free from the rigid mount point on the subframe :shock:

depends on condition and mileage, if you're talking 100k plus then I'd expect something around 40-50 quid, if rebuilt or lower mileage then perhaps over £100, of course it depends on what someones willing to pay at the time you're trying to sell it too.

dunno about everyone else but I see crap drivers of all ages every day, about time we had regular re-tests I think, there's some scary statistics somewhere that give the percentage of drivers that don't meet the vision requirements (young as well as old). Just because you could read a number plate 10 years ago doesn't make a 27 year old have adequate vision now, how many people get eye tests every year or two?

you need to re-cut a keyway to move the drive gear on the ex cam into the correct timing position and hack off the cam pulley end section. I'd imagine you could get a few more hp from tuning up the engine with the slightly higher lift inlet, but once you start going for higher lift cams you really need the headwork to match. if you're talking real world BHP at the wheels think around 110 bhp for a standard 1.8 valver and possibly 125 with headwork, another 5-10 bhp from increasing the displacement to 2L. rolling road plots can show wildly varying figures for those sorts of mods and those sort of at the wheels figures, people will quote you anything from 150-180bhp, but in reality it's closer to what I've said above.

not sure but GSF do a fair few of them for only a couple of quid each (not gauge senders BTW) I've got a fair few spares from scrap yards (just in case) as they're used on so many VAG engines.

no, sorry, 210mm on KR golf, 228mm clutch on 16v Corrados

If your golf has a cable change 02A box fitted then yes (1.8 and 2L corrados use the same clutch), otherwise the mk2's rod change box on the KR is totally different anyway. I reckon the speedo is the pickup on the back of the gauges, if you have the cable driven speedo, rather than the electrical sender in the top of the gearbox. I'd imagine new clocks would be needed, never really investigated those bits separately, don't know if they're soldered on.

M10 x 1 it's a standard VW/Audi/Porsche 924/944/saab etc. type sender and thread, all the standard VW oil pressure switches are the same, as that's where the gauge senders screw into too.

see this thread and the pic of the VAG hoses against the golf mk2 16v samco set

PITA you need to swap loads of bits over from a 1991 onwards 16v (1.8 or 2L) to solve this, several of the pulleys need changing and possibly the PS pump as the shaft is a different length. I did see pics once of a guy who spot welded his idler pulley together :lol: Said it didn't cause any problems, I guess over time the belt might wear a bit quicker as there's no built in slip, certainly easier than swapping to all the later bits or cheaper than a new idler pulley. The best alternative would be all mk3 ABF 16v bits, you could then run a serpentine belt instead of the V's which would be quieter I reckon. do you have a 2L block on a 1.8 car like me then?

a mk2 golf Haynes manual will give you pretty much what you need, the G60 is pretty much a 1.8 8v golf engine.

daily driver for 12 yrs 2 months :D

very lucky it was an 8v, would have been a bit expensive if you'd spun up a 16v with the belt off, many bent valves me thinks.

remove WUR, drill off back of brass cap turn screw under cap to adjust control pressure of fuel system this either increases or decreases fuelling across the rev range a tiny movement of the screw, say 1/4 turn can affect the fuelling a lot so it's best done on a rolling road in conjunction with setting the base timing and idle CO it can make a valver deliver a fair few more hp at the top end, mine was running fine and spot on on emissions, but vince got nearly another 10bhp peak out of it by setting it up spot on for super unleaded (bearing in mind that was a 2L block with a flowed head too)

it's on top of the gear selector tower on top of the gearbox

pretty much same experience as Jim for me, but I did eventually get the fan switch to seal said this a lot of times before, but the 16v pattern ones are not the proper 16v items, i.e. they don't have as many cores as a proper VAG one, having said that it does cope ok on my 16v, although I find the fan has to work a bit harder in traffic. rather than spending 50-60 quid on a pattern one I would recommend getting a VAG one for around 100 (if you can get 10% or so trade discount)

Im sure Vince told me there arent any? The frame bolts direct to the car. front subframe, the one the front engine mount sits in, not the rear/wishbones/rack one you need 4 of these: 191 199 233 (rubber mountings)

not totally suspension/steering but how about the front subframe bushings?