davidwort

You're better off not drilling the airbox and fitting a K&N type panel filter, possibly removing the front snorkel tube, but the standard airbox the way VW designed it is more than up to the job, any alternatives will really just drain your cash and suck in more warm air from the engine bay - bad.

Stealth is not that much further, up to J16 on M1 then over past Daventry. I'd give them a ring at least for a quote.

the 1.8 has a Warm Up regulator under the ISV and two extra fuel lines to it, the 9A has an electronic differential fuel pressure regulator on the RHS of the fuel distributor, 9A also has a bunch of relays nr the washer bottle, but apart from that the engines are incredibly similar to look at. Passat and Corrado 9A engine bays are virtually the same, slight difference in air intake pipe, airbox and washer bottle, but hard to tell apart.

looking at the front of the engine it's to the right of the cylinder head at the same level as the four branches of the inlet manifold, has a pipe connecting to it from underneath and another to the front which then leads along a tube to the inlet just past the airbox, there's also an electrical connector to the rear of it, it's usually a black plastic unit about 10cm long on the 2.0 16v, the 1.8's had a metal bodied thinner unit. No. 19 on the pic

best to try factory settings for camber and toe and see how you like it, too much -ve camber and it'll go round corners great but chew your tyres up.

you also need to loosen the ps pump to get it's belt off, do a search on the forum, there's a bit of a knack to it as several bolts need to be slackened two of which are hidden from view in the front PS bracket mounted to the block.

the stuff I got is Granville PU-Flex, a bodyshop sealer/adhesive http://www.granville-oilchem.co.uk/

providing you can get the bottom damper pulley off the main crank pulley, they have a habit of siezing on and without that off you won't get the bottom cover off.

I've got a tube of some at home, will get the details of it, comes in a tube like silicone sealant but metal for some reason, I'm assured by the motor factors that traced some down for me specially it will stick to anything.

geometry settings nr end of this thread

yeah, avoid any calipers and carriers (from a mk3 golf) that are marked 'ATE' - these are the 288mm ones and a totally different type. You need Girling ones from a pre 95 mk3 golf GTI 8v, 16v or VR. or passat 2.0 16v(1994-6) or passat VR6

I can highly recommend the poly bags IKEA matresses come in :lol: but you'll need something more waterproof than double sided sticky tape

that should do it, you can get away with the narrower 16v calipers but pads may need trimming down when pads and discs are new as the G60 280mm discs are slightly thicker as are g60 pads and so the caliper itself is wider. Mk3 golf GTI 280mm calipers and carriers will do too, just not the later 288mm ones as you can't get 288mm 4 stud discs.

yeah, 8v's always seem to run cooler, but then the temp senders are on the head and the 16v's got a lot more bits going on in there :)

sounds fine to me, oil is what I'd expect and regardless of town or motorway the water should sit mid way all the time if the thermostat and radiator fan are working properly.

hummm that is reading from my MFA without resetting it - I suppose my drive to work isn't really "round town" as there is no stop-start. An indicated 40+ is easy on the motorway if you stick to 65-70!! Bear in mind that the speedo is nearly always 5-10% overreading so I'd imagine this inflates the MFA values. It doesn't seem to make much difference whether you have the old mechanical K-jet injection system using the manifold pressure to work out fuel consumption or a modern ECU that can better calculate actual fuel use, my mk4 Golf also consistently produces long range mpg figures 2-3 mpg higher than the actual use (filling the tank brim to brim) much the same as my old Corrado does. The 16v is also hampered by having the shortest gearing of all the Corrados. BTW, some of this posting business is going a bit Pete Tong?

sportsman's bet it fails on you again when the engine is hot sometime tho...

yep, the solenoids come off, easy job, they get weak over the years and stick usually when hot (the electro magnet is weaker then). I think it may be hard to source just a solenoid though, second hand is your best bet, careful with non-VW exchange starters though, they've not got the best reputation for longevity. It's worth removing the starter and cleaning it up/check the carbon brushes too if it's old enough for the solenoid to be playing up. It doesn't help that the wiring to the solenoid deterioriates, I've seen a few people relay up the solenoid feed from the ignition so it gets a full 12V from the battery direct. Earth straps could do with checking/cleaning replacing if necessary too.

synthetic doesn't, it has no smell really, easy way to tell what's currently in there.

relay no 99 is the front intermittent wiper relay (19 on early cars) although your problem sounds like a worn wiper stalk which can make contact for the wiper circuit in the OFF position. Try wiggling the stalk about gently and see if you can trigger it to happen or stop when the fault occurs.

1. could be cooling fan run on switch is missing from the head near the timing belt cover, then the fuel gets bubbles in it over the hot engine whe the car is parked up, or it could be a more serious problem with the ECU/temp senders and pressure regulator on the metering head. 2. badly fitted replacement windscreen, pull out the outer trim and look around the join between glass and body, unfortunately it's only usually a sustained pouring of water that shows up the problem with small leaks. Might need to get a bead of silicone in there. Door membranes are a favourite for letting in water too.

'cheesewire' has I believe, in the top of the tailgate trim, better there than the VAG one which isn't the neatest and requires cutting of the tailgate panel and you don't really want another opportunity for rust to start there. If you select your LED light carefully and cut the upper trim with care it should look pretty good seen a few done neatly.

Even when initially starting off? (i have to reverse off my drive) You have the car in neutral with the engine running yes? so the main shaft will be turning, things need to line up and reverse has no synchro. Sounds odd but with thick cold oil you can get enough drag to move things too, almost like a torque converter in an auto box. A combination of selecting other gears with the clutch in first and waiting a few seconds before going for reverse usually sorts it, fully synthetic oil (better for cold starts) can help too.

as does VW's own fully synthetic which was cheaper than ordering MT90 for me. it takes a while for everthing to stop spinning in the box to get a quiet shift into reverse they don't like to be rushed.

lol, ignores the fact that conventional blades have 2 metal strips to make sure pressure is applied evenly along the rubber.