davidwort

all you need is your registration number when you call a VW dealer, there's only one part for each side (on a RHD car) so they can't really muck it up, driver's side is flat, passenger convex, so if you wanted they could order you a convex glass for the driver's side by ordering a LHD part for a RHD car. as you asked anyway: RHD drivers side 536 857 522A (flat glass) passenger 536 857 521A (convex) LHD drivers side 535 857 521A (flat glass) passenger 535 857 522A (convex)

stick on cheapo ones can be ordered from halfords genuine new heated ones from VW dealers second hand from breakers, e-bay, forum etc. put a flat spatula or thin bit of wood around edge of glass and pry forwards, glass will pop out of holder/fixing behind, a towel or something spread on the ground is a good idea in case you drop the new one trying to fit it

favourite places for the water to escape are as you've said, water outlet flange on front of head and the expansion tank cap. tank itself can crack and leak. Usually a leak from a hose or joint in the system shows up as crystallised anti-freeze even if it evaporates too fast to see when the engine is hot. do you get steam on the inside of the screen? that might indicate the heater matrix, but you'd almost certainly smell antifreeze inside the car. The temperature switch on the bottom of the radiator, nr the battery can leak, especially if the radiators are pattern ones or the rad has been changed and the washer not replaced. the metal water pipe running down the gearbox side of the engine can corrode badly and you could get a leak from the headgasket into the cylinder without the water entering the oilways but you'd get plenty of white smoke from the exhaust. the oil cooler (heat exchanger) can also corrode on the water pipe connections and leak from those hoses. Water pumps tend to go very rattly before they actually leak. It's possible the radiator is cracked/holed somwhere too, you really need to clean up all the water pipework joints and keep an eye out for that antifreeze residue, the red G12+ coolant can be good here as it stains well when it leaks showing up the problems better than blue/green antifreeze.

fell off my chair this morning... 16v full no claims 36yrs old fully comp S,D,P and commuting ... Post Office just quoted me £133 :shock:

Can't hold off any longer... :) Crop based fuel is already a problem, the EU is starting to realise that policies on alternative fuels are contributing to deforrestation around the world to plant fuel crops. Personally I think we should keep using all the dino oil till its gone and then look for something else :wink: All this hybrid and electric car rubbish really p155e5 me off too, all that's happening is the pollution is being transferred elsewhere like the coal fired power station or the battery manufacturing plant and yet you've got people like the ex-BP/Shell (can't remember which) boss driving around in one telling everyone what a good example he's setting, there's a hypocrite for you! Main problem is there's just too many of us, we're all doomed... Tell you what though, banning patio heaters is bound to save the planet :roll: -- end of random outburst.

the 1.8 16v drivers side shaft is thinner than the G60 and later cars although I don't think the actual CV joints are any different, interesting that that shaft seems to be an alloy, mine has rusted so much the balance weight was just sliding around so I cut it off, no ill effects so far.

It should be running in average settings for temperature etc. and ignoring sensor inputs including the Lambda if you do this. From one other 2L 16v I've seen with these symptoms I believe it was a dodgy lambda that was the problem.

Never understood why you'd ever need a poly bush on the rack, the rack pushes left to right and it's bolted to the subframe, on the drivers side there's no bush so there's going to be no lateral movement, so unless the bolts are loose it's not going anywhere? The factory bush is there on one side so that the subframe can flex slightly and not crack the mounting bolts in the process.

VR6 one is slightly thinner than the 4cyl one and has a thinner metal bracket to hold it in place.

frame might, basically the same, but the roof panel will be too curved to retract

they don't drive it on the road so how would they tell :)

this reminds me, which bright spark at VW decided the mk4 golf should have a fixed position on the stalk for the rear wash wipe? if you (or someone else) accidentally leaves it on when you turn off the ignition, next morning the first thing it does when you start the car is try to wipe the rear screen :roll: at least with the corrado you have to be pretty deliberate about trying to break the rear wiper :lol: (sorry Jim) vwdeviant, I think it's out of the flow of air pretty much where it is and the golf boys are always converting theirs to lie flat!

if it's like the front arms Jim then the motor spindle has the grooves cut in it and the arm part simply gets groove patterns pressed into it as you tighten the nut down, what you may need to do is smooth off the inside on the arm where it fixes onto the spindle first so you can get it to park exactly right, but it may have already done that for you! If anything's bust I've a spare arm and motor you can have for nowt, from when I fitted a new tailgate last year.

you'll stop you'll lose all drive when one of the CV joints finally gives way, even if it's just one side.

just out of interest how much did they set you back from VW?

ABV and AAA engines don't have the same cams and I've been through 3 pattern ecu temp sensors on my mk4 and I've still not got one that's giving quite the correct values to the ECU :roll:

just to make sure:

get one of those brackets off a golf mk2 with PAS or a passat, similar thing happened to me, scrappy let me have it for two quid :)

it's the same as a 16v/G60 golf mk2 or same sort of age passat, mk 3's use one more like the VR6 Corrado.

f-in' tight :) A 4cyl should be 195 lb/ft 265Nm VR6 uses a torque and turn method

most movement is usually in the front mount and most transmission of vibration is through the rear main engine mount as it sits in the rear subframe bolted under your feet basically. So tightening the front mount movement will probably cause more movement and sound from the rear mount even if it is OK a new rear mount may even make things worse as the old one is probably softer. The front mount sits in the front frame which is in turn mounted with rubbers to the body, so there's a fair bit of insulation of the front mount itself.

PITA to get the old track rods off though, you need to drop the subframe a bit (wishbones still attached) to get at the flats on the joints to unscrew, but then the rack is moveable and thwarts you getting enough torque on them

new track rods, which do have the inner joint that screws into the rack as part of them, made a huge difference to the steering on mine (after 140K) if you put the steering on full lock, get someone to hold the track rod in the middle, then rock it a few cm on the steering wheel you should feel and probably hear the play in the inner track rod joint.

Really impressed with all of that, looks so neat and carefully thought out, would love to MS my valver, I'd imagine you can bring the fuel economy up too from the K-jet CIS as well as improving the torque mid range. Hope you get it mapped to the red-line sometime - 8) I'm making very careful notes! On the inlet manifold diameter business, all KR's changed to the 42mm inlet regardless of golf mk2/corrado/passat, I think a fair bit of thought went into the re-design and you'll find a lot of the big bumper mk2's have it. You might get a few hp more peak with a 50mm on a screaming high lift cam engine, but I've seen plenty of good output 2L 16v's using the 42 and I know it's not a restriction on mine (polished and ported to head with the KR cams).

possibly, but it could be a small vacuum leak from somewhere on the inlet side.