davidwort

just to clarify, this book would cover the 1993 introduced ABF 2.016v engine in the mk3 golf GTI 16v. This is a similar engine mechanically to the 9A Corrado/Passat engine but is a taller block and uses a totally different fully Electronic Fuel Injection system, not the K/KE-jet of the 1.8 and 2.0 16v Corrados. Electrics will be far more different to the C than the Passat manual is too. If you were to use a golf manual, a mk2 one would be closer (although they don't cover the cable change gearbox)

if you remove the clocks surround (two screws go up from inside the surround and two under caps in the bottom corners) and then the fixing screws (one either side) that hold the clocks to the dash, you can tip the speedo unit forward enough to remove the bulbs in their little holders.

that was the one, found it for Bally last friday, unhelpfully the fuse is just labelled rear lights on the cover and yet it's also the one for all the dash lighting, fuse had popped, did mention to him it might be the rear plate light wiring that caused it to pop in the first place, he's got to take it out anyway as one bulb has blown - perhaps this is a result of it all being removed for the re-spray?

??? I was referring to the sprung loaded mechanism in the caliper, the mk3 ones don't have the exposed parts that sieze easily on the mk2 ones.

mk3 style with a re-desiged hand brake release mech, fit straight on with same hoses as early ones.

http://www.ffp.fi/tuning/pdf/gti-g60.pdf 40Nm, 60Nm then 180 deg in 1 or two turns I'd have thought the cam bearing caps would be the same as an 8v seeing as the headbolts seem the same values, and G60 is just a VW 8v head?? 8v cam caps should be 20Nm, 16v are only 15Nm

Just to add to this thread, although not a common problem on 16v engines, the crank bolt can cause problems if it has been replaced at any time in the car's life. Occasionaly a garage or owner will mistakenly remove this bolt when doing a cambelt change, particularly if the v-belt pulley gets siezed onto the cam belt/crank pulley, and then either incorrectly torque it up again or re-use a stretch bolt. In this instance, rather than snapping the bolt, it will work loose, the keyway and key will then get damaged as the crank pulley vibrates. The end of the crank can be re-surfaced 'in-situ' with the right VW tool and a new pulley should fix the problem, however too much damage would require a new crank and complete engine rebuild ££££ If you're really paranoid you can mark the bolt head against the inner part of the pulley and regularly check the marks are still aligned (e.g. when you check your tyre pressures) along the lines of those yellow arrow tags they put on lorry wheelbolts! To get the correct torque on these bolts I believe you are not supposed to use threadlock, but just lightly oil the threads of the new bolt (much the same way as headbolts come supplied), although this may apply to the stretch bolt version.

Passat and Transporter share the same window winder handles, regulators are specific to the C though.

a 1991 16v could be either cable driven or electronic sender for the speedo, if you have a digital mileometer it'll be an electronic sender, I can't see any alternative parts for either, only the auto-box cars are different. The mechanical speedo's aren't very accurate, mine overreads by about 6-7mph @ 30mph (on 195-50-15's)

Just undo the pump fill hose and pressure hose, the whole lot will pi$$ out, Haynes says the pump should be primed before filling but the fluid will run straight through it and doesn't need priming in my experience. Fill the reservoir up and run the engine, turn the steering from lock to lock until it quietens down (air bubbles forced out of rack) then top up reservoir if needed. Ring GSF for the fluid type, bought mine from them before. If the system is really mucky it is worth flushing through and draining out again, all you'll need is a second 1L bottle, whole system is only 0.95L. From Russian VW technical site for 1990 Corrado: LUBRICATION CAPACITY Fluid capacity is approximately 1 qt. (.95L). FLUID TYPE On all models, the recommended fluid type is V.W. Hydraulic Oil (G 002 000). FLUID LEVEL CHECK Remove reservoir cover. Start engine and let idle. Fluid level should be between MIN and MAX marks on reservoir. HYDRAULIC SYSTEM BLEEDING 1) Start engine and let idle. Ensure fluid is at proper level. Turn steering wheel from lock to lock several times quickly. 2) Continue until fluid level remains at reservoir mark. Ensure no bubbles appear in reservoir when steering wheel is turned. Shut off engine. Ensure oil level does not rise more than 3/8" (10 mm).

many of the ISV's will work on different models, the main problem is that some have slightly different electrical connectors (2 types at least), and on some of them the body of the ISV can be a slightly different diameter and the inlet and outlet hoses in a slightly different postion, best thing to do is compare side by side before buying/fitting if possible, even if part numbers are slightly different.

most early G60's and 16v's do sit fairly low as standard, the later cars had a mixture of different springs and mountings, with some of the last cars looking very high, springs and muntings will tend to drop a bit with age though.

looks good, you're right though, would look better like this:

do you mean you need a new downpipe (which incorporates the front silencer) or are you looking for an aftermarket manifold and downpipe in one? A pattern downpipe for a passat or mk2 golf/jetta 16v fits the corrado 1.8 16v, you may need a new bolt on heat shield for it though as these corrode through. If you were thinking of a 4 branch aftermarket manifold I would strongly suggest you go for internally polishing the standard cast iron manifold and fit a standard new downpipe to it, the fitment, heat, cracking, noise and little or no power gains don't make the 4 branch worth it, I'd only suggest this on a highly modified 16v engine where a raised rev limit was used to gain extra power from wild cams at the top end. The standard 16v VAG exhaust system is pretty good, choices for aftermarket systems are limited as the 1.8 has the golf 2 style hook exhaust hangars and not the 1992 on bar type hangars all the other C's have.

impressed, the 55hp model :) had a manual choke on my polo coupe (only a 1050cc jobby) but it regularly returned 40+ mpg, the water temp controlled auto chokes can be troublesome, still at least you should have hydraulic tappets, the solid lifter ones are so rattly. At 140,000 miles on mine the steering had major play in it got pretty hairy on corners. rocco vented disks (calipers and carriers) go on the front, make them stop far better, the original polo ones work OK, you just have to push very hard! having no servo was not a great cost saving measure by VW :lol:

not a formel-e is it, they were so cool, top gear was such high ratio it only worked on level ground or downhill (with the wind behind you) 1050cc and 45hp and brakes to die by...

official listed stuff is VW hydraulic oil G002 000 1.8 16v's have a red reservoir cap that has ATF marked on it although I've always refilled mine with green LHM type fluid (stuff for citroen hydro-pneumatic suspension), strange as the pumps and racks for the corrados are all basically the same and use the same type pumps. Early VW steering racks did run on ATF fluid, but not Corrados AFAIK.

saw another one like this on a 1.8 earlier in the year, fortunately enough flushing eventually un-blocked it. I'd make sure everything is well flushed out though in the rest of the system, cause if there's gunk in the rad it'll be elsewhere too including heater martix by-pass valves. you could try removing your old rad and using some vinegar or kettle descaler on it, would probably shift everything, VAG rads are the best for the 16v, the original parts have a better cooling capacity than the pattern parts that are cheaper, despite the looks the 16v rad is specific to the 16v and you shouldn't really use an 8v carb rad in it although you'll get away with it in most weather in the UK.

makes sense, pattern/generic sensors cause no end of problems at my dad's garage, plenty of 2.0 16v Corrados seem to have suffered from poor quality pattern lambda sensors too, last one I saw was at stealth, sensor had only been on for a few months.

soft spot for the roccos, mk2 VW designed one doesn't quite have the lines of the mk 1 though, personally I think that was better than the mk1 golf. Would love a mk1 storm or mk2 16v.

tilt it only a little, then grab the tilted bit of the lining and pull it towards the back of the car, it sort of un-clips, slides a little and then can be pushed forwards and drops flat, you can then manually slide the whole lining back into the roof, just don't lose it in there!

that's interesting, they sell just the reflectors for Corrado headlights on thier own for about 50 quid.

if it's just the plastic lugs on the number plate panel there is a cheap fix. From the inside of the tailgate you can just about reach the fixings to screw in a small self tapping screw into the centre of each of the broken lugs, you'll need a wide plastic washer/spacer to brace the screw against the metal of the tailgate itself, carefull not to go too far with the self tapper or it'll appear the other side of the panel! For a new one GPC might be able to source one, otherwise it's second hand or VAG.

Have a good search here on the forum, I'm sure there's a few posts with similar problems. a few things to suggest are: get the fault codes read, the 9A ECU isn't great for this, but it might pick something up check all the vacuum lines and inlet pipes for leaks and splits do the basic resistance tests etc for the temp senders, hall sender on dizzy etc, a Haynes passat manual 88-91 will cover the 9A engine suspect the lambda sensor, they seem to cause a lot of probs on 2.0 16v's try running the engine with both electrical connectors to the metering head removed, this should force the ECU to run the engine in basic get-you-home mode and by-pass a dodgy reading from the lambda possibly clean ISV -although this doesn't sound like the problem make sure the air plate in the metering head moves smoothly check system fuel pressures with the correct unions and fuel pressure gauge

you'll also crush the rear bump stops if you don't cut them down by the appropriate amount, also rear shocks don't seem to take well to being operated too far from where the pistons were designed to work, they may well not last as long on lowered springs, ideally you want shocks designed to work at a lower ride height like koni sports or something.