davidwort

These parts are aftermarket switches fitted by dealers I think, to non-leccy windows corrados, the car will also not have a window control box and one touch operation, the switches are not interchangable with the control box style ones. a lot of early 16v's seem to have these same aftermarket switches. You may also have Mickey-Mouse window lifters if you have these switches rather than the proper geared lifter arm type. David.

Yes... :roll:[/quote:da117] :scratch: Where are the mounting points again mike? :joker2: :blackeye:

You can get a whole range of fitings and screw in studs from VW/Audi/Skoda dealers, some are better for quick release than others and some of the press down type can release themselves a bit too easily, most can be fitted to any mats and cars by simply cutting small holes in the mats and screwing plastic studs into the carpets. We had an Audi A6 with the Mk4 golf style factory studs already in the floor and it took ages for the dealer to find the right parts, but they did in the end, only a couple of quid. David.

have you checked the outlet from the rad? is it hot? the thermostat may be partially stuck closed when it should be fully open. David.

reflectors are plastic though, and this is a special vacuum process from what I remember, I think it's usually too expensive to have done as a one off, and that's if you can find someone to do it! David.

Good/new reflectors and separately relayed dip and main beam, left and right (i.e. 4 relays) together with 80/100W main unit and 60W spots and I can assure you the lights are excellent. In fact on dip (2 x 80W) my lights appear whiter and brighter on the motorway compared to most new cars I pass. If you need new reflectors you can use the entire light unit from pre 92 cars regardless of whether you have a facelifted model or not (just change the lenses and trims over for later cars) and these items were about 65 quid through the VW parts club from VAG, complete later units were way more IIRC. David.

this is some info I got when buying my koni's: all prices from Jondel Motorsport ---------------------------------------- all cars rear 80-2587SPD2 57.50 each including the VAT these items suitable for lowered springs and are damping adjustable and ride height adjustable OFF the car all cars rear 8041-1108Sport 75.95 incl VAT these are fully adjustable and top adjustable on the car, they are gas pressurised and also suitable for low springs Fronts -------- VR6 for lowered springs 8710-1302SP20 top damping adjustable (£ cant read my writing I'd imagine similar to 16v/G60 price though IRO 120 quid) VR6(and late 2.0 cars chassis no 50-S-000 052 onwards) for standard ride height 8741-1259Sport top damping adjustable and gas £104.95 incl VAT 16v/G60 for lowered springs 8641-1198Sport top damping adjustable and gas: £120.50 incl VAT insert only: £91 ------- I think there's at least one part for rear dampers at standard ride height too. David.

you do realise that you don't need a sump gasket when you use a windage tray, the tray has a rubber gasket fitted into the edge of it. David.

good old VAG, trebling the price of parts to make up for their poor new car sales profits :x , German Swedish and French only charge £3.50 for the whole cap with a seal on it. :roll: I had to order a drive gear for my oil pump, they had increased the price from 40 quid to 90 quid in the space of a year or so :x :x :x David.

should be 1H0 121 687 A and about 50p from your VW dealer. David.

I think the handbook states 1L/1000miles (or possibly 1000Km) Realistically this is a bit much, but 16v's do burn a bit of oil generally. On a 100,000 miles 16v cylinder head, valve guide wear is the usual culprit and just changing the valve stem seals is unlikely to be a long term fix. If the car is running well, I'd just leave it until the consumption becomes excessive, by that I'd say more than 1L/500 miles. Driving style has something to do with it, if you constantly red line a valver it will burn a lot more oil. David.

There's a lot of talk about this on the Club GTI Forum as a number of mk2 16v owners have modified and 2.0L 16v's running K-jet injection. Best bet is to have your car set up properly on a rolling road by someone who knows the K-jet system well, as mentioned you only really need to start modifying the injection system if you wan't to supply fuel to get the most out of modified cylinder heads and non-standard cams etc. K-jets do like to be set up a little richer than spec though, about 2% CO at idle (by adjusting the idle mixture screw on the metering head) and possibly a bit richer via the warm up regulator, you can do this all yourself, but at the very least get your CO checked by an MOT station and make sure your plugs aren't fouling by over fuelling. If you do the WUR, only use fractions of a turn, as 1/4 of a turn can put your engine over the 3% CO allowed at MOT time and may loose you power. If done properly it doesn't use a noticeabl;e amount of extra fuel. David.

a lot of cars run the resistor in the air flow from the blower motor t okeep it cool, doesn't seem to make much difference though, the Mondeo is like that and as you say they always go. I had an old polo coupe and I just went down to a local scrappy and looked for the best looking resistor, I think they let me have it for nothing :) I'm sure all the mk2's and 3's are the same part. The second hand one ran for 3 or 4 years and was still OK when I got rid of the car. David.

I've got rear axle axle bushes, front drop links, drop link to wishbone bushes, front and rear wishbone bushes, bottom ball joints and front ARB bushes to go on, just got to make the time to do them now! David.

2.0 is same as 1.8, you just have knock sensors, a lambda probe and electronic control of fuel pressure, you just yank the injectors to get them out, a bit of WD40 or having the engine a bit warm helps, go back in dead easy, but worth getting new rubber seals for them, old ones are probably hard and can let in air. David.

Only the KR inlet is different from a 9A, but if you can get hold of ABF ones they offer even more lift than KR ones 8), bit less duration though. David.

You should be able to get a Koni Sport 40mm drop kit for about that (OK perhaps not as good for lowering as a full coilover kit), but all their dampers are damping adjustable and the rears have a range of height settings, as the dampers are suitable for lowering to nearly 60mm I think you could get away with even lower springs on the front than come with the kit at some point. Even cut the front springs down a bit (flame proof jacket on) I'm certainly impressed with the quality of Koni dampers. David.

Thought you might like to see the difference between 135,000 mile rear spring packing and top mounts. One part is the lower top mounting (bit the car sits on) the other is the rubber that the top of the rear spring sits in under the spring top plate. The parts are the original VAG ones next to new Genuine VAG ones of exactly the same part numbers (the spring packing has been superceeded by a slightly modified part as you can just see in the pic) Not surprisingly these bits have got well squashed over time. What you can't see is the constituency of the rubber has also really deteriorated too, not sure how much difference changing these has made, apart from increasing the rear ride height slightly, but they were only a few quid when I was changing the dampers anyway. David.

They're to stop the springs making a noise on the spring baseplate, as mentioned they're shown in the diagram that comes with the Konis, I've used standard bump stops cut down and the dust covers that fit to the bump stop trimmed down a bit too, I presume you don't have any dust/spray covers if you use the poly bump stops. David.

An ABF (mk3 16v) or KR inlet cam and a ported, polished and gas flowed head and lower inlet manifold, that should take a healthy 2.0 block from 136bhp to nearer 165, possibly more. Should be just about within your budget, for that you wil get a smooth strong power delivery to the red line without loosing much between idle and 3500 revs. I don't know how many times I've said this to people, but don't bother with aftermarket exhausts and downpipes, waste of money on a valver, at the most get the standard cast iron exhaust manifold internally polished and matched to the head. David.

in: see pic

just do what I did and buy a pair of koni (damping)adjustable rear dampers, they have a least 2 grooves for adjusting the spring baseplate(and so height of car) and you could very easily machine more grooves to get exactly the height you need, cost me 115 quid for a pair all in, and they are excellent quality. David.

That's a really good point and something I'd never really thought about, the engine itself obviously generates a lot of waste heat but then that's even before the @ crank power. If drivetrains really wasted that much energy, our wheel bearings, cv joints and gearboxes would probably glow red! Obviously we don't drive around at peak power everywhere, but I think this little fact of where all this supposed energy goes to just supports the idea that drivetrain losses as nearly always over estimated by far. Either that or I really need a 20 row oil cooler on my gearbox :lol: David.

Not to mention the stress it will put on parts like the CV joints, a little give helps to protect some of the mechanicals sometimes :wink: David.

those are the part no's for the passat bits and c bits, but they also require the different levers and selector from the parts I have on the garage floor! update: the 3 parts you listed can in fact be fitted to the early gear linkage :oops: the only issue is with the position of the PS fluid reservoir, when the selector is in the forward position (2nd or 4th gear). I found that by squeezing the PS bracket slightly I could get the reservoir to sit a little bit higher and it's rear hose just clears the weight. The later style selector also includes a completely modified lever arrangement and body to the selector unit, which I can only presume is a further improvement on just having the shift weight, but this does require the whole selector unit from a donor car, too expensive to buy new. I can say that with just the weight fitted the gear selection front to back (e.g. 1st to 2nd gear change) feels much heavier and more positive. The only thing I think I could really do with is the correct VW tools for aligning the gearchange, still not found anyone with those yet! I will post all of the pics soon. cheers, David. here they are: