davidwort

payment sent, thanks for the prompt communication :)

they disappeared from the roads nearly as fast as the awful Probe, I totally forgotten about both of those, at least the cougar had mondeo underpinnings

early kit please, if you still have any left.

You could check all the hoses are clear, I think a blockage in the small diameter hose or a hose collapsing under vacuum from the inlet can cause excess oil too.

the front end that soaked up the hours... 20150709_204816 by David0011, on Flickr 20150709_204757 by David0011, on Flickr always useful to have a professional detailer to hand: 20150709_193846 by David0011, on Flickr 20150709_204832 by David0011, on Flickr 20150709_204844 by David0011, on Flickr

there's plastic reproduction trim clips for every make of vehicle on ebay Jim, I bought some Nissan ones, clearly they are moulding copies of the genuine ones and motor manufacturers register hundreds of patents for every new model of car, I wouldn't worry, just change it slightly if you're really paranoid :) it's not like they are a unique design, it's just a barbed screw cover :)

My friends on hols still, but if we do go down the route of re-creating it from scratch I'm sure if nothing else he'd do a few prototype prints for me, TBH apart from slightly weird chess pieces he's not really found a use for it yet, I broke a plastic release arm on my kettle the other day but as he told me of course the 3D plastic re-melts at about 100 degrees :lol:

you do really need the original CAD package files or one of the common 3D file formats, if you can't get the files from the company Jim then I think one of us needs to try to re-create it so we're not tied to one supplier, it's amazing how complex such a tiny bit of trim can be!

I've used all sorts just fine.

unscrew the regulator and take a look at the condition of the brushes first

I dunno, I've had both types of rack rubber mounts off Corrados and they're not like an engine mount they take no stress they simply help reduce vibration and allow a small amount of subframe flex. they don't seem to wear at all from what I've seen, but I'd be interested to see one otherwise.

the rack is just that, a rack, it's a toothed bar with a tie rod screwed in either end, nothing can move really and it would be pretty obvious if the rack mounting bolts had come loose! I still reckon it's one or more of the following: suspension top mounts shifting inner tie rod joint play (where they screw into the rack) worn wishbone bushes

ah, that's a pain, .eprt files seem to be a non-editable file for conveying designs to customers and I'd imagine the company that did the original 3d drawings would be very reluctant to give you the 3D CAD source files. If anyone knows a way of getting .eprt files to something like .stl format that would be handy! Either that or one of us needs to make the 3D models again :(

Jim, do you have the 3d image file, I've a friend at work with a fairly good 3D printer and I'd ask him to try doing one for me.

finally, finally, finally cut and polished up the bonnet, that 2k paint is hard work so I bought a variable speed rotary polisher with a foam cutting pad, Amazon still took me days, pleased with the result though. 20150704_183442 by David0011, on Flickr

Yep, remove the pressure hose union, unscrew the valve underneath and you should draw out the valve, several parts and a spring between, take note of the order of bits! withthe vvalve parts removed, stick your finger in the pump body drilling and feel for any rough marks, this will affect the valve operation

That's the pressure relief valve, I'd imagine it's stuck and the build up of pressure is causing the leak where it screws into the pump body

you need to pull the handle slightly as if opening the door (but hold the base of it in place with the screw removed) to get the striker arm clear of the cut out in the door

cutting oil? I got some of that for drilling holes in a stainless steel sink, although I'm favouring the 2K lacquer and flat and polish ATM :)

I'll do that, I've an old spare fog and some 2K lacquer left over from my wheels, that stuff sets like concrete.

could you use windscreen crack repair liquid, same refractive index as glass?

oh, no, another garage messes with the factory calibrated settings on the metering head trying to compensate for another issue they couldn't find. CAT change won't fix your CO problem, a 1.8 16v with no CAT will be way ower than that on idle CO, there's something fundamentally wrong with the fuelling or the engine itself, is it burning oil badly?, what do the plugs look like, pretty black 'd imagine. You really need to find a bosch injection specialist, the system is very close to that used on fords and porsches, Volvos and more so someone near you must be able to help. I'd look at testing/replacing coolant sensors, cheap and easy and often the cause of overfuelling probs.

I've discovered one of my neighbours works for GKN, must quiz him about where things are made and QC/OEM supplies and my new next door neighbor works for VAG head office in MK, really must get chatting!

one of your first posts that needed moderating probably, doubt it was a week though I'd probably go for newer mk4 aircon parts if you were going to the trouble though, if they are mk2 bits they are going to be ancient, there's a few climatronic conversions been done on here

just have the gutters welded and the roof repainted, probably cost less than £400 quid, the trims do bugger all anyway, it's not like they stop water running in an open window :)